450c track problem

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altonlee
40C crawler
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Location: Texas

450c track problem

Post by altonlee » Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:38 am

I have a 450 c john deer and need to break the track so I can replace the seal in the track adjuster.
The only difference in the pins is one has a hole in the middle of it, I took that to be the king pin. But the problem is I can't get the pin out. Have tried heating and driving but it does not move. I devised a puller and got it to move about 1/2 inch but cannot get it to move any further.

Does anyone know the trick to get that pin out?

StxRancher
420 crawler
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Post by StxRancher » Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:34 am

I mocked up a driver pin holder for my 450c so I wouldn't smash my fingers and then I whacked it with a sledge hammer.

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CuttingEdge
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Post by CuttingEdge » Mon Aug 22, 2016 4:56 pm

I have a JD 350D but did the same thing and devised a pin holder. It takes a lot of pounding, but they do come out (eventually).

Some say copious amounts of beer helps, but I do not drink, but I might have utter many a bad oathe.
I have no intention of traveling to my grave in a well manicured body; instead I am going to slide into heaven with a big power turn, totally wore out with busted knuckles, jump off my dozer loudly yelling, Woo Hoo, another Shepard has just arrived!

mini kahuna
1010 crawler
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Post by mini kahuna » Mon Aug 22, 2016 6:07 pm

should be able to get adjusters out without splitting track.
collapse the adjuster to get grease to come out and make some room for yourself to work.
now you need a way to pull front idler forward...I have used a come along hooked to the bucket or blade and tighten it up to hold idler forward to take track pressure from the adjuster.
at this point you should be able to unbolt 4 bolts from yoke on front and take assembly out.
I have had many that were so seized that heat sometimes softens up the grease and she goes sometimes not.
working in the shop if we got one bound up or really rusted and pitted we just cut the piston tube with a torch and put new ones on.
1010 loader

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amos
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Post by amos » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:01 am

This is the time when "get a bigger hammer" applies. Position pin section at about 2 o clock on sprocket then using a 1" rod 24"+ long or so you whack the heck out of it. Takes more heat than you would think: I use an oxy/acetylene rig with a rose bud and heat to dull red. Easier if you have a helper and I also use a jack stand and placing the rod on the stand and using my foot to hold the rod there starting beating with a 14 pound sledge.
Now the bad news: when the pins are this hard to get out the holes may deform and when you put the pins back in they are loose. Fix is a couple of 3/8 long beads of 7018 surface weld to hold pins in place. Just do the welds on the outboard area and NOT on the inboard area(or you'll be cutting the master link next time).

JWB Contracting
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Pin Backup

Post by JWB Contracting » Fri Sep 09, 2016 10:23 pm

Best to cut a piece of 2-3" pipe to the correct length to fit between the track link and final drive. They can be tight and heat can help, but a backup is needed first.
Jason Benesch

John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
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