Left break drags in reverse - only

[elwood]

Good Day, i have just purchased JD350, model T4E1D. Had a gas engine, now diesel. All works good, just when inverse the left break starts to drag.

Adjusted as per the manual, loosened the break, and worked all day. However now started again. Did spray break cleaner, and worked great!

Any ideas on what o do next? hoping not to have to tear apart, since works in forward, just drags in reverse.

Many thanks,

Elwood.

[gregjo1948]

If it worked ok after adjusting properly, Is it self adjusting itself due to the need for lock nut or jam nut on the adjuster?

[Paul Buhler]

My 420 had a similar issue accompanied by a groan, but also only in reverse. I tore my finals apart and found that on the offending side, a slow leak at the pinion shaft seal had allowed dust and gear oil to make a dry sludge on the brake band. In reverse the band clearance brought the sludge in contact with the brake hub. With what I found, I could probably run the machine longer before needing to have made the repairs. The binding is a sign that repairs are needed, and pulling a final is not that big a job if you build a tripod and use a chain hoist (or something better). Good luck. Paul

[mini kahuna]

Paul is correct, rust brake band binding in reverse, if the machine has been sitting it may get better with use.

[elwood]

Gentelmen, thank for the response. Have adjusted the brakes again... and operated the machine with the cover off to observe operation. And notice in reverse the break tightens down only in reverse. I see a spring below the break adjusting screw. Since Paul has experience tear down, is possible to replace for the top (inspection plate?)



Thanks[/img]

[mini kahuna]

not much beyond adjusting can be done through the cover, removing final drive is the only way to service the brake or drive clutches.
if your brake band adjustment is setup too tight you will get the same grabbing effect you describe.
try to back off on the brake band adjustment and see if she works any better.
if the machine has been sitting for sometime, using it may clear it up.
the fact that you can adjust it and it makes a difference is a good sign.
work it for a few hours if it isn't too hard to keep in adjustment
if it comes to a teardown replace everything that is not correct when in there, it won't be cheap, if you cheap out on parts you will be pulling it back apart again to do it for the second time

[Paul Buhler]

it won't be cheap

It's all relative. Having a reliable working machine for the cost of clutches and a re-banding of the brake, new seals etc. is still cheaper than having the dozer work done by someone else. If you are at all handy, this project is not that difficult and based on my experience, Lavoy can get you the correct, quality parts for a fair price.
I agree with Kahuna, if you dig into the final,take the time to fix all the ills while you're in there. You'll be happy with the outcome, as compared to having to tear it apart a second time. You don't have to do both sides at the same time if the other side is working as expected - you can leave that side for some later date when time and money are more available.