Rebuilding my IP need some guidance pilot tube depth

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kilohertz
430 crawler
430 crawler
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Rebuilding my IP need some guidance pilot tube depth

Post by kilohertz » Tue Nov 01, 2016 11:32 am

Hi guys,

Finally getting around to rebuilding the IP on my 1965 350...it's all apart on the bench and have pressed out the pilot tube, but didn't realize the depth was critical and didn't measure it before I removed it. As I don't have the mandrel spacer 16315, could someone please tell me what amount of bronze pilot tube should protrude from the front of the flange? Or should it just be pressed in so that it is flush on the inside of the housing?

Everything else ready to go back together.

Thanks!
1952 MC
1965 JD350 outside blade
1968 JD350 Drott 4 in 1
1965ish 710 green tractor
1978 212 garden tractor
2003 F525 circus mower

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DrLoch
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Post by DrLoch » Wed Nov 02, 2016 7:23 am

After pressing out the old pilot tube the IP manual states the following:

Clean the housing bore and replacement tube with solvent. After both surfaces are CLEAN and DRY, coat the outside of the replacement tube with epoxy adhesive. Fill the grooves and coat the areas between the grooves.

Place No. 16315 pilot tube installation space, (using end of tool with the 0.045 inch counterbore for T19865T Pilot tubes and the .315 inch counterbore tube for R40907 Pilot Tubes) over the chamfered end of the replacement tube.

Press the tube into the housing with the No. 16314 mandrel until spacer bottoms on the pump housing. Because too tight a fit will cause distortion of the tube, the service replacement has been designed to be 0.0005 inch tight to 0.0015 inch loose.

The majority will be found to be a very light press fit. Correct protrusion of a "loose" tube is maintained by curing with the housing inverted and supported on the spacer.

I believe when I did mine I used the .045 measurement.
450C Track Loader
291457T

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kilohertz
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Post by kilohertz » Wed Nov 02, 2016 8:55 am

Thanks, I have the same manual but couldn't interpret what they meant, .045 or .315. I found web pictures showing a vast amount of difference so I ended up pressing it in so it is flush on the inside of the housing.

It's all back together and runs soooo smoooooth now. Not sure if it was because the damper ring was disintegrated and completely gone, or because the little glass check ball had been punched out, but I replaced both along with some seals and the pilot tube and it runs better than it ever has in the 12 years we have had it.

And for those people contemplating an IP pump repair, if you have the ability to rebuild a Rochester carb :lol: you can repair one of these, it's not hard, just make sure you have a very clean area to work, and have the SM-2045 manual at your side.

Cheers
1952 MC
1965 JD350 outside blade
1968 JD350 Drott 4 in 1
1965ish 710 green tractor
1978 212 garden tractor
2003 F525 circus mower

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jsal
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Posts: 269
Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:27 pm
Location: armada Michigan

350 IP

Post by jsal » Wed Nov 02, 2016 3:11 pm

I also have a 350 1966 fuel pump was leaking took out took to Northern Diesel
control not far from home it was an upgraded newer pump let the experts do it. hope its not a lot of dollars was running fine just leaking to much for me. I have done lots of carbs but was leery of doing something wrong.

JIM

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kilohertz
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430 crawler
Posts: 87
Joined: Sat Mar 22, 2014 1:37 pm
Location: Sunny BC

Post by kilohertz » Wed Nov 02, 2016 4:29 pm

Here it is all apart, well as far as I needed to take it apart. I didn't take apart the head end as I didn't need to, but I have had them apart before and it's nothing complicated. Digi pics are a good backup if it's going to be apart for more than a few days. :roll:

Cheers

Image
1952 MC
1965 JD350 outside blade
1968 JD350 Drott 4 in 1
1965ish 710 green tractor
1978 212 garden tractor
2003 F525 circus mower

User avatar
kilohertz
430 crawler
430 crawler
Posts: 87
Joined: Sat Mar 22, 2014 1:37 pm
Location: Sunny BC

Re: Rebuilding my IP need some guidance pilot tube depth

Post by kilohertz » Fri Dec 22, 2017 12:32 am

Good gravy,

It's been a year since I rebuilt this an realized I didn't update you on the success...

It was a success. :D

Just finished plowing the neighbours driveway for the 3rd time in the last few weeks and was thinking how smooth it is now...no missing, stumble or anything. It was a pretty simple process to rebuild it, replace the elastomer ring, pilot bushing and seals and put it all back together. If you can rebuild a Rochester 4 bbl, you can repair one of these...just make sure everything is CLEAN before you reassemble it.

Anyway, she ticks over beautifully and runs great with no smoke or stumbling/missing etc.

Merry Christmas to all and a very happy new year.

Cheers
1952 MC
1965 JD350 outside blade
1968 JD350 Drott 4 in 1
1965ish 710 green tractor
1978 212 garden tractor
2003 F525 circus mower

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