JD 350 Steering clutch slipping

[gcgrant]

Recently bought a 350 with a 6 way dozer. It has a good undercarriage and runs really well. It has sat idle for most of the last couple of years. It has dry clutches. The right side slips sometimes and doesn't always seem to engage properly. From reading this forum I would suspect rust and other contamination has gotten in there. Somewhere I thought I read where someone suggested dumping a gallon of lacquer thinner into the clutch. Would that help and would you let it just sit or would you run it a bit with the thinner in there before opening the plug on the bottom?
Thanks for any and all suggestions.

[digitup]

Run this machine easy for the first little while dont slip the clutch two often and keep the heat to a minmum on that clutch but get the rust off it .Then set it up to the brake if needed later. As per operators manual and shine up the blade much later.Digitup.

[gcgrant]

Thanks for the info Digitup. Do I take it that the lacquer thinner idea is not a good one? What is the best way to get the rust off the clutch? Will it clean itself with use? What is the best way to turn, graduallly in short grabs of the brake or with steady pressure back into brake? What is the best for the rusty clutch, and what will make them last the longest?

[Lavoy]

My bet would be oil on the clutches not rust. If it is oil, there is not fix other than replacing the clutches. Even if it is rust, I doubt that that would cause the clutch to slip unless there another problem along with it like a lot of wear, or weak pressure plate springs.
Lavoy

[gcgrant]

Thanks Lavoy. The machine at this point is definately workable. So we will carry on turning one way more than the other.
I will be using the 350 to skid logs and to load them onto a small portable sawmill. It has a hydraulic 6 way blade. I hope to rig something up on the blade to lift the logs. They will be about 16' long and most will be about 24" diameter. I was thinking I could mount a set of forklift forks on the blade then I could also move lumber with it.
Any suggestions? This is such a great site. I have always wanted a crawler and now that I finally have one its great to have such a valuable source of experienced help! Thanks again........George

[Lavoy]

If you can find a pair of old forklift forks, they would work well. All you would need to do is make a bracket of some sort to hold them and mount them to the blade.
I would guess that you will be able to lift a ton or so without much effort. only thing I would keep in mind is the torque on the blade pivot and tilt mechanism, don't over do it too much, or at least make sure everything is in good shape.
Lavoy

[digitup]

Leave the laquer thiner on the shelf there are no quick fixes for the clutches Any petroliem based fluid means trubble on those clutches I would suspect a rebuild shortly But good luck and take it real easy till you get the rust off as it will grab on pressure plate and take out the ceramics Digitup.

[gcgrant]

How big of a deal is a clutch rebuild? Is it something a guy can tackle at home or does it take special equipment? I would suppose it would only make sense to do both sides and the brakes while it's apart. Would a person rebuild with the all metal plates. Maybe that extra cost wouldn't make sense in that this machine will not not get a lot of time put on it.
George

[Lavoy]

I don't want to say that it is not a big deal as you do have to pull the final drives off, but if you have a way to lift them, you will be fine.
My take on steering clutches is unless you like pulling final drives, don't skimp on them. I know I sell parts, but I also hate pulling finals, and the price difference between cobbling it and doing it right is not that great. The parts a normally readily available, and not much more expensive thant he two cylinder crawlers.
If the steel plates are clean and shiny with no rust, then probably not necessary, otherwise replace them.
Lavoy