clutch plate removal

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Jason37756
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clutch plate removal

Post by Jason37756 » Tue May 07, 2019 6:33 am

i have been working on my 3315 winch and all looks good except the braking system...it is rusty and needs some serious attention.

i am working my way into the clutch area and cannot yet remove the plate. i am wondering if anyone has any tips on how to remove it?? i can't see any obvious ways to remove the plate and don't want to use force unless necessary and safely without breaking anything.

here is a link https://avspare.com/catalog/deere/2339/33554/110063/

part number 12 is the plate. also i have not removed part 10 or 11 either...just waiting to see what we can figure out.

i have no movement from the drum at all, in any direction.

thanks

jason

B Town
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by B Town » Tue May 07, 2019 10:40 am

Here is a look no to the 3315 clutch exploded view.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sid ... /pgId/3142

Which part(s) are causing trouble?

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Jason37756
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by Jason37756 » Tue May 07, 2019 12:18 pm

B Town

here is the link on the jd parts webpage

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sid ... gId/185274

i am not sure what your link is, but it is not the same winch that i have.

part # 12 the clutch plate...it sets in the drum with clutches and metal plates behind it...its stuck and appears to be designed to slide out, but i am not sure.

thanks

B Town
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by B Town » Tue May 07, 2019 2:27 pm

My link is to a 3315 power winch found under the 350 c dozer model. Go to my posted link and scroll down to see the label, just below the picture. What model is your winch?? I would like to help, but we need to be on the same page. I have tried your link, but I was unable to see a diagram or # 10, 11, 12

Jim B
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by Jim B » Tue May 07, 2019 6:37 pm

Jason,

Were you able to determine if the winch you took off the 350B originally had a rotary valve which was replace by a spool valve? I think you posted the filter is to the right of center which should originally had a rotary valve.

As B town posted, I too would suggest using the John Deere parts catalog. Most everyone here uses the JD catalogs on line for reference.

The winch should be covered in the service manual. Do you have SM2063 for your 350? The 350B manual is TM1032. It is likely stuck as you noted and is going to be a bit pain to get out of there.

Jim

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Jason37756
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by Jason37756 » Tue May 07, 2019 7:54 pm

I have both manuals, but didn't realize the winch was in them. I' ll check those out. I posted from the john deere parts catalog on my second post to clarify.

It doesn't show signs of ever having a rotory valve. If it ever did it was converted to the spool valve at some point.

I got the plate, disks, and steel spacers out this evening. Man what a mess of rust and nastyness. I' ll never know how that much junk got that far into the winch. I removed the circlip that holds the hub on, but the hub is also stuck...I'll let it soak tonight and see about removing it tomorrow.

I do have another question.

Should I be able to free spool at this point? I have removed the brake band and all the disks from the brake side of the winch. I am able to turn the drive shaft by hand and see the hub turning on the brake side.

I've read thru a lot of post about the winch and know pressure needs to exist for certain things to function, but I am not sure about being able to free spool.

Thanks

B Town
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by B Town » Wed May 08, 2019 5:21 am

Someone probably removed the pipe plug out of the bottom of the left quill case. They do this to let oil drain out so the brake band doesn't get soaked. Unfortunately, It lets everything else in.

The brake band when properly set, serviced and in good condition is the only thing preventing free spool. With the band removed your winch will free spool.

You had stated your clutch looked nothing like the exploded diagram I had attached, is that really true. Or have you got deep enough in it now that things are looking similar?

Many rotary valves were dealer replaced as a warranty issue with the older more reliable spool valve. You would see very little to no evidence of the rotary valve.

Jim B
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by Jim B » Wed May 08, 2019 5:55 am

Pressure is applied to the cylinder that releases the brake band to free spool. The clutch would not have pressure applied during free spooling, only to wind the cable in. If you have the brake band off the drum and the clutches out of it, the winch drum should be free to turn. It may be a victim of rust and crud build up from what you have said about the brake and clutches. If you can turn the input shaft and see the hub the clutch discs go on turn while you are turning the input shaft, the drum should be free to turn. If it was setting outside, it is amazing where water can get to and cause rusting. You may have to put some force to the drum to break it free. Look in the center (cable) area and see if the gap between the drum and case is clear all around on both sides.

The best I can tell to identify that your winch was originally a rotary valve winch and converted to a remote spool valve is the filter will be to the right side of center and there should be 4 each 5/16 threaded holes used for mounting the rotary valve in the housing, around the area the hoses attach for the remote valve.

I think your manuals should have a winch section, the manuals for my 450E have a section for the 3325 winch. If you don't have anything in your manuals, You will find info on a 3325 winch (winch is similar) in the miscellaneous section of the 450B manual you can find and download for free at the following site: https://archive.org/details/John_Deere_Company . That manual shows up in the center of the top row when I open the site. It should be similar and help you, if needed.

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Jason37756
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by Jason37756 » Wed May 08, 2019 6:07 am

Thanks for the info...I'll take a few pictures and load them today.

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Jason37756
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by Jason37756 » Wed May 08, 2019 7:52 am

here is a link to some pictures of the front on the winch as well as the brake housing, cable spool area, and somewhat clean brake disks.

i think i will install it onto the dozer and then be able to put some force on the spool to break it free.

here is the link: https://pin.it/5rbvmneeoyndo4

thanks

jason

Jim B
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by Jim B » Wed May 08, 2019 11:14 am

Hi Jason,

Seeing your latest photos it does appear you have an early model 3315 power winch. As I've noted before, the filter is the main clue I've seen. Your filter is mounted to the left of center (right and left always based on in the seat looking forward, unless specifically noted otherwise.). As far as info I have found those always used the remote spool valve mounted under the seat. Compare the parts between the 3315 winch in the two (350 and 350B) parts catalogs; but I think it will match the 3315 power winch in the 350 parts catalog (PC921). Watch for serial number breaks when looking at the parts.

The discs in you photos are the clutch discs (frictions and steels) that drive the drum to winch cable in, they are not brake discs. The brake is the band around the outside of the drum. In my opinion your discs look like they need to be replaced. I can't see the brake band, but have doubts about its condition from your photos. You might be able to scuff it up and save it, 50/50 chance. That area, and the parts in it, should not be that heavily rusted. It will clean up and work. The drum should spin free right now. You may have bearing problems or other issues if you can't get it to turn by hand the way it is. With the brake band off and the discs out, as you have it, it should turn easily as it is just a drum on bearings. JMHO

Jim

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Jason37756
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by Jason37756 » Wed May 08, 2019 12:09 pm

my plan is to put everything back together and see how well it works...i'm not logging timber or working the machine for money, so i can wait and see how it works. if it shows signs of life then i'll pop for the proper repair.

the brake band is the fourth picture shown...it's in rough condition, but has enough material to do a test run. may not hold a log, but enough to test.

i'm hoping the bearings are good. on the other side they look in near perfect condition, but were in oil. seems to me if i can break that spool loose i on my way.


thanks for the info

dtoots1
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by dtoots1 » Wed May 08, 2019 1:13 pm

jason37756,
please check your private messages

get to it next to your login, once you login to the site..

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Jason37756
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Re: clutch plate removal

Post by Jason37756 » Wed May 08, 2019 7:05 pm

Update!

Got the hub off. It was rusted on so I had to push the shaft back thru the winch rather than simply pull the hub.

Also pulled the drum and had to use my blue wrench to get the bearing to move! I am free spooling now, so I'm happy. I think I'll clean and put it back together to check pump pressure and function. If its got a good pump then I'm ready for final repairs and use.

Fun times

I assume replacement seals and bearings are available. Does @lavoy have these?

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