350 steering clutches

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Monserandsons
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350 steering clutches

Post by Monserandsons » Wed Oct 23, 2019 6:47 pm

Gonna do both sides. Can’t figure out how to post pictures Any help appreciated

Jim B
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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Jim B » Wed Oct 23, 2019 7:37 pm

This site has a dedicated picture server. You can read about it on the Message board Q&A and Announcements Board when you are logged in. You need to email Lavoy (postmaster@jdcrawlers.com) and get a log in set up for that site. You can set up an album there to store pictures. Pictures stored there can be used in your posts on this site.

Monserandsons
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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Monserandsons » Wed Oct 23, 2019 7:45 pm

Thank you. I will research that later. John

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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Monserandsons » Thu Oct 24, 2019 3:21 pm

Hey folks. I’m ready to separate the left side final. This is a customer job so not my machine. 8 or 9 years ago I did the steering clutches on my straight 350 but it was a loader crawler, anyway I removed the cover with 3 bolts on the final and removed the circlips and as I pulled the finals the steering clutches stayed in thier housings. Is this an option on the straight 350 dozer models or am I missing something? Would like to not have to negotiate the finals with clutches connected. I am experienced and have worked on much larger finals. This time I’m using someone else trick with the 1/2” all thread for guides. Input on my question appreciated. Thanks John

original possum
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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by original possum » Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:26 am

Never tried it that way but, if it works, why not! I leave the clutch on the final, pull the driveshaft (made a fixture to clamp on the driveshaft and pry it out), then remove the rods and roll/drag the final out supported by boards.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way

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Lavoy
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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Lavoy » Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:49 am

I guess you could do it that way, but it can not go back together that way, you need to set preload on the pinion shaft while the final is off the crawler and easy to get a dial indicator on.
My other question is this should not be an easy job even if you do, outer pinion bearing is an interference fit as well as the inner bearing. It should have been a total pain in the XXX to get the shaft out this way. If it wasn't, the bearings have spun somewhat, and the shaft is shot.
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Monserandsons
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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Monserandsons » Sat Oct 26, 2019 11:39 am

Thanks, I pulled both sides easily with clutches connected. Now just have to clean everything and make parts list. It’s possible the one from 8 or 9 years ago came out the same way. Not sure, nevertheless I got it apart. 6 months ago I bought the 3/4” earth quake impact. 3/4” copper and 1/2” air lines with high flow fittings. Hasn’t met it’s match yet and made easy work of all these little bolts lol

Monserandsons
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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Monserandsons » Mon Oct 28, 2019 7:27 am

Hey folks, because I can’t post pictures directly from my phone(and my limited device experience) I haven’t done so yet maybe I’ll figure it out. Anyway my clutch housings are so dirty and corroded that they really should be removed and set on the bench. However I’m reluctant to do so because the machine is equipped with a winch and that would greatly increase the time factor. Plus the more you dig into the more worms you find. Anyway I’ve removed the brake band, throw out bearings , clutch fork shaft and fork. Does anyone know if I have enough clearance on the machine to remove the steering lever shaft without removing the housings? Thanks John

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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Lavoy » Mon Oct 28, 2019 8:11 am

Should come to the outside no problem.
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Monserandsons
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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Monserandsons » Mon Oct 28, 2019 9:22 am

Thank you. During final drive removal both of my drive shafts stayed in ring and pinion hosing separating from the clutche hubs, is this normal because book shows it coming out with final. Second there is no trace of gear oil scent in either clutch housing but I’m thinking I want to replace the the 2 sealing rings and the two o-rings. Book doesn’t show replacement without removing ring gear assembly. Should I get into it or leave since they don’t appear to be leaking? Thanks john

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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Lavoy » Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:05 am

Depends on how much work you want to go to. I am not really worried about the O-rings, but the seals can fail, but not as common as the pinion shaft seals.
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original possum
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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by original possum » Tue Oct 29, 2019 12:38 pm

If the drive shafts stayed readily in the "differential" then you had better check your pilot bearings carefully. Also, I would put an O-ring on the drive shaft on assembly to stop gear oil from traveling down the shaft, even with new seals.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way

Monserandsons
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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Monserandsons » Sun Nov 03, 2019 10:52 am

Thanks for the advice. I’m assuming that you mean to put an o-ring on the shaft against the pilot bearing? I ordered new pilot bearings. I can’t really get the shafts to pull out of the differential, only an inch or two. Chinese finger hooked to slide hammer? Thanks John

original possum
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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by original possum » Mon Nov 04, 2019 4:33 pm

No. I meant put an o-ring on the smooth part of the shaft probably inside the "bushing" that the TO rides on. Small drips of oil coming from the quill end will drop onto the bushing instead of following down the driveshaft to the clutch plates.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way

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Re: 350 steering clutches

Post by Monserandsons » Wed Nov 06, 2019 9:56 am

All of my parts showed up today. Everything looks excellent. Thanks. Any thoughts on removal of the shafts from ring and pinion case? I was advised to remove, clean, and lubricate prior to reasembly? Thanks John

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