350 steering clutches

[Lavoy]

Weasel piss, wiggle and pull til they come out. Wire brush the splines as clean as you can, anti seize on reassembly.
Lavoy

[Monserandsons]

I don’t want to sound like a broken record but I can only get these shaft s out an inch or two. Anybody else run into this problem and have to device a puller? Thanks John

[Monserandsons]

Got one out! I now see why so hard. Just took some perseverance! Thanks John

[jsal]

now you can place a big bar in the side you got out and force the other one out !!!


JIM

[Monserandsons]

Hopefully this is my last question,lol. I would prefer to reassemble with drive shafts installed in ring and pinion housing for clearance reasons, anyone see a problem with this? They came out that way. Thanks John

[Monserandsons]

Hey folks, so I’m having a really hard time accurately measuring preload on my final drive pinion shaft due to the fact that if enough force is applied you can actually move the pinion shaft within the inner bearing races. So I guess I’m just supposed to measure the play that I can develop with my hand pressure? This is really holding me up so any suggestions would be appreciated. The old shims total .0023. The bearings and cups all look excellent and no signs of heat. Thanks John

[Monserandsons]

I hope my explanation was understandable? Both inner and outer bearings have a different inside diameter and both sit against a different part of the shaft. Once both are pressed all the way on the circlip goes on Shims then quill. When dial indicator is placed against splined end of shaft, you measure play. However like I said if enough force is applied the shaft will slide in the inner races until the circlip touches the inner race of the bearing on the quill side. Maybe I’m overthinking it?

[Lavoy]

If you can move the pinion shaft within the bearings it is shot. Both bearings are a press fit. Anything less, and they are going to spin on the shaft. You need to replace the pinion shaft.
Lavoy

[Monserandsons]

1ton or 30 tons like a caterpillar? I made a jig to separate and to press back together. I can’t move the bearings on the shaft by hand. When dial indicator is installed I’m using a 2’ tire spoon to pry on the splined hub which is enough force to move the shaft in the races. You’ve obviously worked on a lot of these ... when your measuring play do you use a pry bar or just pull and push on the shaft by hand when reading the dial. Thanks john

[Monserandsons]

Edit- there is no indication of any spinning on the shaft thus far

[Lavoy]

If you can move them with a bar, in my opinion it is shot, but up to you.
No idea on tons, press fit is .001 or a little more oversize on the shaft relative to bearing ID.
You over-shim the pinion shaft, measure the free play, screwdriver will do it, no effort required, then remove enough shims to achieve the correct preload. Reassemble, and double check, but if preload is correct, no need to use a pry bar, the bearings are bottomed, it can't move unless the shaft isn't tight, and I am assuming you installed new bearings.
Lavoy

[gaspumpsam]

Do you mean .023” or .0023 shims . 2 1/2 thousands isn’t very much for shims.
I don’t have a picture of final drive in front of me, but suspect it much like a 440 ic.
If you assemble pinion assembly, but leave out the shims, and gently and evenly tighten pinion bearing cap until bolts are snug,
About 10 to 15 lbs ft, you should be able to measure with feeler gauges between cap and housing in 3 spots around cap, then average that measurement, then that measurement is “0” end play or preload. Remove .005” from that measurement will give you .005” preload. Add .005” to that will give you .005” endplay
Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out.

[Monserandsons]

First of thanks for the responses. Secondly I apologize for the fact that when I re-examined the book it clearly shows the “technician “ moving the shaft in/out by hand with the indicator attached, not sure how I went wrong there. I will definitely use both methods to determine an average/ final setting. It’s important to me that I’m using a good shaft so I will measure/ reassess so on. Hundred things going on as winter sets in. Will report back. Thanks John

[Monserandsons]

Hey folks, so things have gone great. New pinion bearings , shafts repaired and using the feeler gauge with no shims in addition to the dial indicator gave me comfortable results. Thanks. Both finals installed and looking good. However when the finals were off the machine I chased all threads of the four bolts that hold each track frame to the finals I had one that felt waddled out and I was concerned about. It was one of the non barreled bolts on the bottom on the inside of the right side of machine. All the others came up to the specified torque of 250ftlbs. However that on in particular never made it to a hundred. Now being I took them off with an impact I have no idea if it was torqued properly to begin with, maybe it was loose for years. Any way any suggestions? There is an additional 1/2” of threaded depth in that hole Anyone run into this before?

[jsal]

heili coil thread repair kit available at most auto parts stores or try a longer bolt



JIM