Help issue with JD 350 B

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HJ62
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Help issue with JD 350 B

Post by HJ62 » Tue Jan 28, 2020 8:15 pm

I had purchased a nice 350B dozer with 6 way blade nice running machine Until it would not move !!! Started to check it out and found the guy I bought it from was a back yard Hack Looks like it had been apart Transmission to rear drive unit and has put back together with Missing Bolts Threaded Rod as bolts and Loose bolts allowing the machine to start separating assume that the space between has allowed shafts to slide apart and might be worn. The machine has been sitting waiting to get inside and about ready to getting into. Can this be split by splitting track and rolling rear drive back on tracks and repair replace shafts coupler what should I expect ?

Thanks

original possum
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Re: Help issue with JD 350 B

Post by original possum » Tue Jan 28, 2020 8:54 pm

The most rearward "split" is between reverser and transmission. There is a coupling in there that shells out quickly if bolts are loose. With luck you will only need a coupling, but reverser output and transmission input shafts suffer too. You should probably start at the front. Removing belly pan will be the hardest part if the caged nuts spin. Do good diagnosis first to be sure you need to split.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way

HJ62
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Re: Help issue with JD 350 B

Post by HJ62 » Tue Jan 28, 2020 9:21 pm

I had heard that it was a coupling and assume when it spread apart it would have stripped the coupler. Was told this was a common wear item. Thought was by just tightening would only be a short term cure so I planned on trying to do it correct New Coupling Bolts shafts if needed

Thanks

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CuttingEdge
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Re: Help issue with JD 350 B

Post by CuttingEdge » Wed Jan 29, 2020 3:30 am

I had that same problem when I bought my 350D as well, and my Grandfather was nervous that I bought junk when it did not move getting it on the trailer....

My problem was a simple fix though.

The clutch pedal does not have greaseable points so it was sticking. The clutch spring that pulls it back gets weak over time, and with no lubed points on the clutch pedal, it sticks. I lubed the pivot points and put in a new, stronger spring.

But that is a 350D...it might be different on your 350B; I do not know. Check the easy stuff first!
I have no intention of traveling to my grave in a well manicured body; instead I am going to slide into heaven with a big power turn, totally wore out with busted knuckles, jump off my dozer loudly yelling, Woo Hoo, another Shepard has just arrived!

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CuttingEdge
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Re: Help issue with JD 350 B

Post by CuttingEdge » Wed Jan 29, 2020 3:32 am

On the same 350D and it would stop working after just a little bit of working time.

The problem was as simple as a clogged Reverser Filter.

Again, maybe being a 350B the problem is different, but always check the easy stuff first.
I have no intention of traveling to my grave in a well manicured body; instead I am going to slide into heaven with a big power turn, totally wore out with busted knuckles, jump off my dozer loudly yelling, Woo Hoo, another Shepard has just arrived!

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gregjo1948
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Re: Help issue with JD 350 B

Post by gregjo1948 » Wed Jan 29, 2020 5:09 am

If it stopped moving suddenly, I'd say the coupling has stripped. If the bolts were loose, allowing the housings to separate unevenly,( wider opening at the top usually) it would misalign the coupling so the splines wouldn't be riding evenly all the way around putting more pressure on the teeth/cogs that were trying to drive the machine. They would wear rapidly until they couldn't handle the strain and would peel them off the shaft which would stop the machine movement in either direction. Start by removing the skid plate then remove every thing from the nose back to coupling. No need to remove the tracks. If you're lucky, you won't need to replace the shafts that the coupling joins.
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford

Jim B
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Re: Help issue with JD 350 B

Post by Jim B » Wed Jan 29, 2020 5:18 am

They were known to get loose, separate some, then strip the coupling and shafts as original possum posted; and it sounds like you can see that separation. Since you can see it is separated some, you know where you need to head to start repairs, adjustment and pressure checks will come after it is back together. As original possum posted start from the front and work back to it. You won't need to break the tracks to fix the separation working from the front.

The technical (service) manual has info on how to separate the components of the machine. If you don't have the technical manual TM1032 and operator's manual OMT46859 contact Lavoy and see if he has those available from his store. If he doesn't post back and we will give you other options. You should have them before you start, they will guide you in the process and provide specifications you will need. You can use the John Deere on line parts catalog or you can also purchase that if you prefer. The parts catalog is PC1169. The link below will take you to the on line catalog start page where you can enter the model number or parts catalog number to get to the catalog you need. If your 6 way blade is full hydraulic it should be parts catalog PC916.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/search

Monserandsons
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Re: Help issue with JD 350 B

Post by Monserandsons » Wed Jan 29, 2020 1:27 pm

I have dropped a quite a few belly pans... the easiest thing to do is have a fire extinguisher handy and torch off the bolts. I usually leave the easiest one to reach for last. Upon reassembly, weld bolts on top of new pan bolts and you no longer have to hold the top. The bolts holding the pans together on that machine are relatively easy to reach.

HJ62
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Re: Help issue with JD 350 B

Post by HJ62 » Thu Jan 30, 2020 9:11 am

Thanks for the great responses

Making room inside to get it so I can work on it in my spare time I will check out for the manuals

Again Thanks

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