450 c 3325 winch

[Kyjimmy]

I think I posted this on early model instead of late model support.
I have a 3325 winch that won’t stop turning the drum. I’m not sure if it has a rotary or spool control. It’s a small box up by the oil filter. The control lever is by my thigh when in drivers seat. I believe all the way forward was engaged, half up is neutral, all the way up is brake.
The oil was changed and screen cleaned, no change.
Any ideas would be appreciated!

[Jim B]

If you had posted it on the early crawlers board, Lavoy may have moved it over here when he saw it. It is here now along with this posting.

This is a 3315 winch with rotary valve, the 3325 looks about the same. If your valve looks similar to this, you have a rotary valve.


Push lever forward to wind cable (Winch clutch engaged). Center position is hold (clutch released and brake on) and it should go there when you release the lever. Lever pulled to the rear is free spool (clutch disengaged and the brake is off). This is from my 450E operator's manual, your 450C operator's manual should have the same info.

The brake is spring applied and pressure released. The clutch is pressure applied and spring released. It would sound like you have pressure to the clutch when it is in hold and free spool which sounds like a bad valve or a disc seized or parts broken and piled up in the clutch causing it to keep turning.

The tech manual has trouble shooting and pressure checks as well as repair procedures and specs. Do you have the JD 450C tech manual TM1102? And the famous question usually asked when someone says they have 450C. Are you sure it is a 450C by serial number? Straight 450s had a C in the serial number which meant crawler, not C series, which is a cause of some of the confusion. If you do not have manuals, contact Lavoy (postmaster@jdcrawlers.com) he may have the correct manuals available through his store.

[B Town]

Hello Kyjimmy!

First off, we need to find out if you have a spool or rotary valve. The spool valve will be mounted more under the seat and have a silver spool moving in and out of a casing with the cable control. The spool valve is a small square box, about 3”x3” mounted directly onto the winch housing. Just follow your control cable back from the winch handle at the seat to find which you have.

Based on your symptoms, I would guess you have the rotary valve. This rotary valve is notorious for this type of problem. Deere started recalling this type of valve soon after this design was released. Ultimately, Deere returned the the tried and true spool valve. With the rotary valve, the small brass plates get worn or the mating surface gets scored. This allows hydraulic fluid to pass-by and your winch drum moves on it’s own.

Last I knew the rotary valve was obsolete with no repair kits. As some have said, I have slept a bit since I last checked. You should check with you yellow dealer. There may been some solutions on the secondary market.

If you have the spool valve , let us know and we will head down a different path.

Best regards, Bruce

[Jim B]

Hi Bruce,

I believe they are back to the rotary valves. The rotary valve shows as a good part for the 3325 on my 450E, no sub to a spool valve and line kit. I see the same part numbers when I look in the 450C parts catalog. They are proud of them, I see a price of almost $2700.00 for a new valve. Makes the seal kit look cheap at about $175.00. I think he has a rotary as he said it was "a small box up by the oil filter". We'll see for sure when he responds.

Hope all is well with you and yours,
Jim

[Kyjimmy]

The valve is the same as the one in the picture, a rotary valve. I guess I should do a pressure test, that might tell me if it is the rotary valve. Also I need to get a manual from Lavoy. I will check the serial number the next time I go to the farm. Thanks

[Jack-the-Ripper]

If you need to remove your winch as I just did, I connected a small, affordable, and well worth the price, 1 ton differential hoist to the ROPS and had easy control of the weight. Obviously a "come-a-long" would also work but with more lifting effort and less "fine". control.

"Once I got it loose from the tractor body, I used a couple of 2x4s leaned against the fuel tank area, and held out at the bottom with a 4x4 and appropriate blocks against the tacks at ground level to form an angle ramp so as the winch is lowered it allows the filter, control cable, etc to clear the back of the tractor.

I think this process was much easier and safer than using my backhoe.


Since mine is out, if you need any photos, or references, or have any other questions, I'm happy to help.


I still need to figure out how to replace the input shaft seal as I have previously posted.