Belly Pan removal

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rmbrewer1
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Belly Pan removal

Post by rmbrewer1 » Tue Jun 02, 2020 2:05 pm

I had to remove the belly pan on my 1976 JD brawler loader about 25 years ago. No problems since. Now one of my hoses that is inside the belly pan and goes up to the main tank is leaking bad. I cannot get to it from any other direction but from the bottom. How hard is it to remove/drop the belly pan. The only for bolts on the front have the nuts inside the pan and almost impossible to get to. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get to the nuts to remove the pan or am I missing something?

Also 2nd problem. The loader had not been ran for at least 2 years. I put a new battery in it and cleaned all wiring and fired it right up on the second crank. No ether or anything. Loader moves great in reverse, stays in neutral, goes forward in High but refuses to move in Low. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Jim B
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Re: Belly Pan removal

Post by Jim B » Tue Jun 02, 2020 5:58 pm

You should tell what model your crawler is.

rmbrewer1
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Re: Belly Pan removal

Post by rmbrewer1 » Tue Jun 02, 2020 10:06 pm

Sorry I thought I did. It is a 1976 450C crawler loader. It has been in the family since new.

Also does anyone know where to get a decent priced engine water temp gauge for the 450C?

Thanks

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77 Ford
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Re: Belly Pan removal

Post by 77 Ford » Wed Jun 03, 2020 7:30 am

The front belly pan bolts should thread into nuts that are in cages. If those cages are missing you'll have to reach thru from the side to get at them. It can be done as I have one cage missing. The back should just be two bolts. I'd start at the back, use a floor jack to support it remove the bolts let it down and move to the front. You can run up on rail road ties to give yourself another 6 or 8" of clearance, I highly recommend that.

Any mechanical water temp gauge will work, I purchased mine at the Oreilly's .

As far as no low, that could be many things. I'd start with checking the shift linkage, then filter/fluid, and then you'll have to start running pressure test to see what is going on. When you say it runs in high but not low, which of the 4 gears are you specifically talking about? It won't move in 1st but does in 4th? What about 2nd and 3rd?
JD- 450C track loader
Serial #208336T

rmbrewer1
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Re: Belly Pan removal

Post by rmbrewer1 » Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:11 am

It works in all gears such as 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th. As you know there is a gear pattern such as R, N, H, and L. Trans works in all gears moving forward and reverse except when in L it just sits there. Trans oil is good and up to almost the full mark. I may just have to run it some once I get the hydraulic line replaced. It is the one that is steel that is on the right side that is a 90 degree ell that goes up towards floor board. I can see it from the top but I have no clue where the other end goes too.

Thanks for your response.

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77 Ford
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Re: Belly Pan removal

Post by 77 Ford » Wed Jun 03, 2020 3:30 pm

Those steel lines are a real pain.....I ended up replacing mine with flexible after trying to fix a rubbed thru spot 3 times.

That is very interesting on the high / low that is not what I was expecting at all(that's why I ask questions and not assume ). I would double check the linkage make sure there it's actually getting the transmission to engage and if it is you'll need to start checking pressures in the transmission.
JD- 450C track loader
Serial #208336T

rmbrewer1
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Re: Belly Pan removal

Post by rmbrewer1 » Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:42 pm

That is what my mechanic friend also said for me to check the linkage. He said something had to be stuck. I am going to go the route you said and go with a rubber hose. Bad thing is I cannot see where it ends up. Goes up through the body from just ahead of the step plate and then just under the floor board towards the back but I cannot seem to see where. If I can get wrenches to it then I am definitely going with rubber hoses.

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77 Ford
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Re: Belly Pan removal

Post by 77 Ford » Thu Jun 04, 2020 6:39 am

Mine was 2pc and split about half way back on the loader. That is where I made my connection.
JD- 450C track loader
Serial #208336T

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gregjo1948
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Re: Belly Pan removal

Post by gregjo1948 » Fri Jun 05, 2020 2:20 am

Can't you just torch off the belly pan bolts? If so, remove the nuts and their cages, weld new nuts back in the same place, and use new bolts when replacing the pan.
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford

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77 Ford
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Re: Belly Pan removal

Post by 77 Ford » Fri Jun 05, 2020 7:04 am

The "stuff" that accumulates on my belly pan is like gasoline I've almost burned my loader down twice welding on it. I personally wouldn't go near that pan with a torch. I've reached up inside and held the nut and impacted the bolt out several times it can be done.
JD- 450C track loader
Serial #208336T

8thnotch
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Re: Belly Pan removal

Post by 8thnotch » Mon Jul 06, 2020 9:39 pm

My machine was doing the same thing when I got it.All gears worked and Frwd or reverse in high but had no low just sat there . Opened battery compartment , shifted Machine into low grabbed the shift rod and pulled up maybe 1/16 of a inch and voila into low it went . Undo jam nut remove clevis pin tighten up shorten rod up by tightening clevis a few turns and food as new clevis pin worn a bit and so is actual casting of the shift lever . Hope this helps

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