450c oil leaks

[8thnotch]

Dropped Pan to fix hydrulic return line but also have a oil leak between engine and transmission? When I cleaned and pressure washed machine down I see oil seep behind block and mating surface of transmission both at top of machine and underneath it. When it's running it bubbles and seeps a bit of oil all around . Looks like engine oil is rate up actually maybe a bit overfilled . Is it possible the rear main seal is gone or what woud be your thoughts ?. Still without a technical manual so in just guessing . I hate oil leaks and seems this machine has many to iron out thank you .

[Jim B]

Are you seeing oil seepage right at the back of the block? There is a plate (actually considered an engine component) between the block and transmission with a gasket between it and the block. The rear main seal is also in that plate. The starter mounts to this plate. The clutch housing should be dry, or you are on the way to clutch troubles from oil contamination. A leak in either place, you need to pull the engine to repair it. (This is the same loader or dozer.)
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sid ... pgId/20395

[bennyt]

I had to split my 450 plain for the same problem. the transmission pump seal was leaking.

[8thnotch]

Yes I noticed in the parts lookup shows a plate and a cork gasket for some listings mine has neither . Block is bolted directly to trans previous owner motioned engine was out at one time and rebuilt, but was vague with details.Theres a little weep hole at bottom of cast bell housing that oil drips out of and at top of engine where fuel line runs around back of block to pump oil is weeping out there mostly on left side of block at back of engine .So it could also be a tranny seal leaking ? . It looks to be engine oil as it is dirtier oil than one would think the oil in the trans would be . Either way sound like a pretty big job ahead of me .

[Jim B]

As for yours not having the plate on the rear of the block, that doesn't sound right for the engine that should be in your machine. That plate holds the rear main seal and seals other areas at the back of the block, thus the gasket between it and the block. The starter mounts to that plate. The back of the block doesn't match the clutch housing shape and bolt pattern. I would clean and double check. Black, dirty oil sounds like a rear main leak. Transmission oil is usually light brown/amber colored.

[8thnotch]

Looked closer at cleaned up engine there is a plate more like a cast spacer about 1 " thick between block and trans housing.I was thinking a plate about 1/8 " thick with a gasket but it doesn't have that . When I look up the parts it shows a gasket for flywheel housing that gasket is missing on my machine and oil bubbles around the housing I assume the oil is from the rear main seal or trans seal , what really is the purpose of the gasket other than keeping out dirt water etc and a mating surface . I have oil around all the housing on top and around it but also have clean oil -trans oil seeping out bottom weep hole on clutch housing. Looks like I'll prob pull motor this winter . What's the best way drop the bucket than lift arms as high as shop ceiling permits, block both cyclinders up in the air and start my disassembly .?

[Jim B]

So you do have the plate. That 1" thick plate (JD calls it a housing) is key item #12 in the link (https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sid ... pgId/20395 I posted for you a while back. It is not a part of the clutch housing and there is no gasket between it and the clutch housing https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sid ... gId/171113. The housing (plate) forms the back end of the block. The gasket is between the block and housing as there areas between it and the block where oil drains back to the oil pan and it seals back end of the camshaft bore. The crankshaft rear main seal is mounted in this housing as well. Beware you will likely need use of a JD tool to install the new rear main seal.

Dropping the bucket off, raising the boom arms as high as you can and putting metal props over the cylinder rods to hold the boom up is a common practice, if you have height enough in your shop to do that.

[jsal]

easy way to work on a dozer or loader engine is to completely remove dozer or loader frame you will most likely find some thing else needs work some on those also presently doing an in frame over haul on 3 cylinder JD 302 with loader removed JIM

[8thnotch]

Yes the 1 “ spacer /plate is there but the gasket that you say goes between block an plate is not there at all a few bolts were loose around housing I tightened them up oil bubbles an seeps on block side near top flat side and around sides not lots but some . I plan on pulling motor out in winter but only have 10 feet of room from floor up , an no hoist above should be fun. I guess start at front and start tearing nose and side panels and whatever else on the way and go from there ?.

[nelstomlinson]

easy way to work on a dozer or loader engine is to completely remove dozer or loader frame you will most likely find some thing else needs work some on those also presently doing an in frame over haul on 3 cylinder JD 302 with loader removed JIM

How do we get the loader arms off a 450C? I'm thinking that the way to go for me would be to drive the pins out from the bucket to arm joints and remove the bucket outside, then push it into my shop and drive out the pins that hold the arms to the frame and use the two-ton gantry to lift the arms. Is there a better plan? Where is the best place to disconnect the hoses?

[NWJD fan]

Rather than removing loader arms it is probably easier to remove complete loader assembly. Remove 4 pins that attach it to forward cross bar and aft attachment points. Need a good lifting setup though.

[NWJD fan]

Hoses disconnect under step on each side of operators compartment

[8thnotch]

What else is involved in removing loader to frame assembly throttle linkages , wiring to dash , air filter assy, etc . Looks like frame for hanging a back hoe has to come off also and does battery box and hydraulic tank have to come off or is it part of the lift. Also looks like ROPS has to come off .