JD 450E fuel trouble

[Mark C.]

Hi, I have a JD 450E dozer. It was run out of fuel and has sat for some time (3+ years). I can not get fuel out of injector pump to injectors. Plenty of fuel into pump from supply pump (new). Lots of fuel out pump bypass/return line. Solenoid clicks when key is turned on. What's next to try? Thanks, Mark.

[Jim B]

The engine has to be turning the pump to get fuel to the injectors, key on and using the primer pump won't do it. Have you been cranking it over with the injector lines loose at the injectors? You likely know that, but I thought it best to mention, its a common error when trying to bleed the injectors.
There is the possibility that internals of the pump are stuck, especially if it was run out of fuel and left setting that long. If so the injection pump will need an overhaul. Just my thoughts, others may vary.

[njoldiron]

Best thing to do is follow the lines from the tank to the pump to the injector and making sure you have fuel at each point. I ran my case backhoe dry by accident and I had a heck of a time priming it. I just kept opening a line and hand priming it until fuel came out. Then went on to the next fitting. When I finally got done I cranked it over and still would not start. But I noticed a little smoke coming out of the exhaust. Cranked it some more and more smoke and finally started. Hardest machine I ever had to bleed. Good luck

[Mark C.]

Hi, I have hand bleed every line all the way to the return line out of the injector pump. I have tried cranking the engine over with the injector lines loose and get nothing. I'm inclined to think your right about something stuck inside the pump. That being said, does anyone have a good diagram/schematics of this pump. I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I tackle it. Thanks, Mark.

[Jim B]

You can take the numbers off your pump and use those to search on line for manuals. Yes, you can tear your pump apart and work on it, some people chose do that and say it is not hard. I don't know how they are calibrating them after they finish, and there are about as many stories of something going wrong during their "rebuild". I personally don't recommend that. I send mine to a pump shop where they have the right manuals and specs, parts, special tools, and the equipment to calibrate the pump properly. Pumps are very precision items and cleanliness is top priority. I have had some training and worked on them but I don't have the tooling to do them right and I can't see risking doing damage (and still having to have a shop repair or replace the pump after) that could end up costing more than having a shop do the complete repair and calibration. JMHO. Your pump, your decision to make.

[Mark C.]

I have opened every line on it at every connection. I think I'll pull the top off the pump and check the solenoid and metering valve, when it stops raining. If that's not the problem I guess I'll have to pull it and take it to Ralphs Diesel repair in Cazenovia, They have never failed me in 45 years and dozens of rebuilds.

[LeonardL]

Hi, I have a JD 450E dozer. It was run out of fuel and has sat for some time (3+ years). I can not get fuel out of injector pump to injectors. Plenty of fuel into pump from supply pump (new). Lots of fuel out pump bypass/return line. Solenoid clicks when key is turned on. What's next to try? Thanks, Mark.

Okay just to clarify?? Your machine sat for three years with no fuel in it? If this is correct then I have one suspect given all the things you say you have done and that the pump is getting fuel through it.

What happens in these Roosa Master / Stanadyne pumps after they sit with no fuel is the plungers get stuck with varnish. Not knowing which pump you have it will have either two or four plungers. You can take these pumps apart and loosen these plungers and clean the rest of the pump, put a kit in it and go from there.

However!!! If you do not have the mechanical experience to do such a procedure then I would send this thing out and have it rebuilt. I think your problem will be these plungers being varnished in place. Most likely some other ports and passages are probably also varnished and stopped up.

[Mark C.]

Hi. the pump is a Standyne DB2-4490, 2100; Deere #RE21175. I've been rebuilding John Deere engines and transmissions since I was 14, (63 now), but I have never tackled an injector pump. I usually send them to Ralphs Diesel Repair in Cazenovia NY. I think your right about it being gummed up. I would take it apart myself but don't have the guages to set it up afterward.

[LeonardL]

You sound like a kindred spirit. I've been bending wrenches for as long as I can remember. I'm 65 now and can't seem to stop bending wrenches. Anyway... Your DB2 is a lot easier than you might think. There are a couple of YouTube videos that will walk you through the process and since your mechanically inclined I don't think you will have an issue. I was like you for years and had a fear of going inside one of these pumps. There are some pumps out there that I still stay away from. But these old Roosa Masters are simple once you see how they work. When I did my first one I was scared to death when I first started. But the longer I went the quicker it became apparent that they really aren't that tough. The one thing I did that I highly recommend is take lots of pictures. That way you have a personal reference to what it was as you take it apart. Your rotation is the easiest thing to get wrong. I used scribe marks to help me keep things to where my weak mind could remember how they went.

Your DB2 will have two plungers. Most likely it will be one or both of those are stuck due to varnish. There is also a fuel regulating valve that is fitted inside the rotor. It will stick as well. I just did a DB2 on a Deere six cylinder and both the plungers and the valve were stuck tight. Even after a good soak in carb cleaner. I finally got them loose after soaking the thing in acetone.

As long as you don't screw with the calibrations they will stay right where they are. If you do mess with them or for some reason would have to go that far then there is information out there to help you get things set. Basically all you need to set one is a micrometer.