H-flow pump puttin, total new lines havin- 1st time doin

[AddamsonFlint]

Hey friends,

I haven’t done such a total redo before in this space. I’m remounting the pump for final fitment tonight, and tightening down the system to start test flow.

I have a google drive folder of some pics, link below.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing


Just for thorough comm sake-
All the hoses, fittings, torque, sizing, ratings….it’s all to spec or over-spec.

Basically, I’d like to know anything I might not know lol, any oddities, or something specific one might not know for this fire up.
Any special air bleeding needs from cylinders, lines needed cracked, other misc, etc.

I’m sure it may seem a bit unorthodox with all the rubber, but it’s good otherwise, so stylistic inputs aside, I just want to make sure I’m not missing anything glaring that might blow up in my face. Literally, and figuratively lol.

Thanks guys

[Jim B]

Is the gate valve (I am assuming that is in the suction line) over sized so as not to be a restriction in the suction line? Most valves, gate and other are less than full flow for the size of the pipe they are threaded for, unless designated as full flow valves. Also is it a complete metal valve? Many have a rubber seal where they seat and most have that held in with a small screw. I have seen the screws fall out in water service and the rubber seat may be attacked by the oil and come apart. The screw or rubber could end up in your pump. I would have gone with a full flow ball valve with oil resistant seals and a handle that can be padlocked, or otherwise secured, open or closed. The lockable handle will prevent it working closed or someone closing it in error.

[AddamsonFlint]

Hey Jim,

I just happened to have the gate valve. I saw a video talking about having all metal (which it does) and not having to worry about rotting seals. However, while I'm pretty sure it fully opens, that was a great observation. Since I'm not 100%, I will definitely double-check. It's 1.25" for the return.

This is the pump going in-

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulic ... 2249-C.axd

[AddamsonFlint]

any video or tutorial on bleeding the system?

[LeonardL]

Hello and I apologize for being late to the post. Maybe I missed something or just plain don't remember but why did you need the high flow pump? Just curious.

I'm with Jim on the "Gate Valve." If it is a true gate valve then it should be full flow. However I have seen those do some pretty silly things that leaves a person scratching their head. Like the spindle that raises and lowers the gate just shearing off for no reason other than it wanted to. The spindle sheared off allowing the gate to fall in the closed position. That then shut the system down and it took us a while to finally realize the silly valve was closed. A ball valve is the way I would go as Jim pointed out. That being said if you're okay with it then leave it alone.

Just a foot note to those who read this and don't know. Never, ever do you put or trust a brass gate valve on the pressure side on any hydraulics. They are made for low or no pressure applications only!!!

In answer to your "Bleeding the system?" Your machine should be for the most part self bleeding. If you feel you must crack a line... which I do not recommend, you should be extremely careful in doing so. Hydraulics will penetrate the skin with atomized oil before you can do anything to stop it. High pressure hydraulics is extremely dangerous to mess with. When you crack a line open while under high pressure, you have no way of knowing where that high pressure oil is going to come out. It will hit you before you realize it.

I would start the machine and let it idle for a bit to get the system charged and then start working the controls. Hold them in one position or the other until that position functions. Then move to another position with the controls and so on.

I must say you do really neat work and looks like you used some quality parts in the process. I'm pretty impressed with what you have done. Just be careful from this point on.

[Cle Elum John]

I noticed the pump was rated for 1500rpm and 2000rpm max. The problem is you don't know what limiting factor the rpm rating was based on. Strength, flow rate, reach max. pressure, durability or ????. My old 450 spins to 2500rpm. I have no idea about the 350c. It looks like a great price on the pump. Be sure to post pictures of the final installation.

[DrLoch]

I'm sure the limiting factor is based on the size of the inlet line, 1-1/4". At those speeds the suction line velocity is already higher than what we generally consider best practices in the industrial world. Then you have to factor in the temperature, cold oil moves slower than warm oil, add in the fittings which in some cases the ID of the fitting is smaller than the hose.

[Lavoy]

350 spins 2600rpm.
Lavoy