'73 - 450B Crawler/Loader/Hoe Restoration

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cordlesscarpenter
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 265
Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 3:36 pm
Location: Southeast Indiana

Re: '73 - 450B Crawler/Loader/Hoe Restoration

Post by cordlesscarpenter » Fri Jun 03, 2022 9:57 am

B Town wrote:
Fri Jun 03, 2022 6:42 am
I may be mistaken, but I believe the tool is the same tool used for 5.9 Cummins. There are many inexpensive aftermarket tools for this available online.
Found one for $19 (even cheaper if you can wait on shipping from CA), now that's a pill I can swallow, especially since I'm a big 5.9 fan and will no doubt be working on them in the future. I'll order one and let everyone know if it works. If it doesn't, it's still a tool I will use in the future. Thanks B Town!

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Stan Disbrow
350 crawler
350 crawler
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
Location: Raleigh, NC

Re: '73 - 450B Crawler/Loader/Hoe Restoration

Post by Stan Disbrow » Sat Jun 04, 2022 5:14 am

Hi,

That is the one I use on the 3/152. Has the spring loaded stop pin. I kinda figured it was the same for the earlier 4 cylinder engines. I had to get a different, larger diameter one for the 3/179. They changed the hole in the bell housing between 1978 and 2008. And the new one does not have the bar and stop pin so now I have to use something else to lock the flywheel. Sigh.

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

cordlesscarpenter
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 265
Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 3:36 pm
Location: Southeast Indiana

Re: '73 - 450B Crawler/Loader/Hoe Restoration

Post by cordlesscarpenter » Sat Jun 04, 2022 9:04 am

Ok guys, I need some electrical HELP.

I swapped out the electrical sending unit style gauges for engine temp and oil pressure for mechanical gauges and I also swapped out the ammeter because it was part of that kit I got from NAPA so why not right.

Now, the machine won't start.

Without pushing the start button, just turning the key I got a big click, the ammeter freaked out, maybe a few more clicks then I turned the key off because I freak out a little when electrical stuff isn't working right.

At first I thought the new ammeter I installed must be bad since the other two gauges are mechanical. So I swapped the old ammeter back in and had the same exact response from the machine.

To help you help me... when I swapped in the mechanical temp and pressure gauges, I connected all the sending unit wires back to the same posts on the new gauges that they came off of from the old gauges and the other end I wrapped in electrical tape. I thought I better put them back where they came from in case one of those wires was a jumper completing a circuit for something else. Should I be doing something else with these wires?

The batteries are disconnected anytime I deal with electrical.

The batteries are reading 12.4v

I didn't touch anything else electrical

What am I doing wrong here?

I'm gonna switch gears to drilling and tapping more hose mounting brackets for the new clamshell plumbing, hoping one of you replies. Thanks in advance!!

I'll also be posting this question on the forum as a "New Topic", in hopes I get more input, sorry for the redundancy.

cordlesscarpenter
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 265
Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 3:36 pm
Location: Southeast Indiana

Re: '73 - 450B Crawler/Loader/Hoe Restoration

Post by cordlesscarpenter » Sat Jun 04, 2022 1:19 pm

Jim:
"If I am understanding what you did. Other than if a mechanical gauge is backlit (or on that is part of a shutdown system like a Murphy gauge set up) for night operation it should not have any wires hooked to it. I would say start by unhooking the wires from the gauge posts and taping the ends of them up and see what happens. Posts on mechanical gauges are generally for mounting, not insulated, and will create a ground for any wire hooked to them; effectively grounding your ignition switch out.
*************************
Me:
Very good insight Jim, thanks so much! Makes sense.

I'll give it a go to see what happens and report.

BTW the new gauges are indeed backlit but I just taped them up for now, as you know, I am not good with electrical stuff and the last thing I want to fool with is figuring out the best place to attach all the illumination wires. Plus they would do nothing but create an even bigger mess behind the dash than there already is. Don't need to give the mice more things to chew on :wink: yet anyways
*************************
Me:
Jim, you're my hero of the day!

Happy to report she fired right up after disconnecting and taping up the ends real good. The mechanical gauges are reading like they should with no leaks.

Looking at the old gauges, you were totally right, like usual, they were insulated posts, both at the gauge as well as the mounting bracket itself. Learn something new every day! :D :D :D

cordlesscarpenter
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 265
Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 3:36 pm
Location: Southeast Indiana

Re: '73 - 450B Crawler/Loader/Hoe Restoration

Post by cordlesscarpenter » Sat Jun 04, 2022 6:29 pm

Anyone have any experience in fixing leaky backhoe valves? Is it easy or super involved? Any lessons learned when you repaired yours?

cordlesscarpenter
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 265
Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 3:36 pm
Location: Southeast Indiana

Re: '73 - 450B Crawler/Loader/Hoe Restoration

Post by cordlesscarpenter » Tue Jun 07, 2022 7:24 pm

The day has finally come...

Today I put the skid plate, side covers, grill and hood on. The exhaust stack will have to wait until I'm out from under the awning as it is too tall, that sucker is like 5' long. She's definitely not cut out for the forest YET. I'd like to eventually find or fabricate a ROPS, timber bars, etc. along with the exhaust running over the top of the ROPS but not until later, for now, my IH TD-8E (same era) will be on Forest Queen duty.

BUT...

The '73 - 450B Crawler/Loader/Hoe Restoration is officially COMPLETE!

A very heart felt THANK YOU goes out to all who have helped me out along the way. 2 solid years of head scratching, wrenching, grinding, welding, prep & painting... ugh the prep was hands down the worst part. In close 2nd would be the time spent behind the computer screen and on the phone finding all the requisite parts needed for this particular resto.

I will be spending the vast majority of my time in the wilderness of Montana with no connection to the outside world, at least for a good long while but I will check in here from time to time to help where I can. If anyone in the future decides to take on a project like this and you have questions, feel free to reply here, send a PM or email me cordlesscarpenter@gmail.com

Thanks again and happy crawling everyone!

Cheers!

~ Darrell

P.S.
The Cummins 5.9 Barring tool does not fit a 4.219, at least not mine... the opening on my rear plate is the shape of a diamond and only about 3/4" or so in size. The tool for the cummins is round and a little bigger than an inch or so. Typical round peg in square hole scenario.

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