350B Track Tensioner

[Niteblaster]

I am trying to remove the left side track adjuster/tensioner without splitting the track. I can not find the master link pin. Can it be done? I have removed the 4 bolts from the front of the track adjuster and removed the grease plug to let the grease out the ram will not go in. I have tried a block of wood and the bladed to put pressure on the front of the track it just compresses the rear spring. the bolts for the piece that the ram goes through just want to strip inside the socket when I try to turn them so I can not remove that and I am afraid if I pump the ram out with grease to rebuild it on the dozer I won't be able to get it back in the housing without removing it. Any other advice?

[77 Ford]

I was able to remove the tensioner and springs on my 450c without splitting the track but you have to get that cylinder collapsed all the way to stand a chance. If you cannot compress it with the blade it may be seized to the point of no repair. I've read threads where people had to cut them out. You said you removed the grease plug to let the grease out are you sure which style you have? There are two styles, one the grease come out the plug with the grease zert, the other has a square headed bolt you have to remove to let the grease out.

[Niteblaster]

I have taken the grease zerk and the grease plug both out and grease has come out both holes. Using the track to compress the adjuster I Don't see the piston move at all just the big spring compress and then release. The piston is still way out. Should the piston go into the adjuster and stay in with the grease removed if it is not seized? Maybe a block of wood and a sledge hammer on the end of the piston or some heat from a torch? I can turn the piston by hand but it doesn't want to compress.

[77 Ford]

Yes, as you compress the piston grease will ooze out and it will stay in that position. If you can turn the piston by hand I'm not sure why it will not compress.

[77 Ford]

As far as your not being able to find the master pin, if you have SALT tracks like I do ever pin has a dimple. You have to pressure wash and inspect ever pin very closely and you'll probably find one that is a little smashed up where it was drove in. That's the pin you have to try and remove to split the tracks.I spent an hour cleaning the tracks and was on my hands and knees studying ever pin before I found it. It is not near as obvious as it should be.

[Niteblaster]

every pin that I have seen so far is flat on the end I have scraped them with a screwdriver none have had a dimple I will have to put it back together and move it forward and check the pins at the bottom of the track for dimples.

[Kaiverol]

I just installed a brand new master pin on my new 350B track today. There was virtually no difference between either end until it was installed. Now it has a chip out of it on the side I hammered on. It did not happen until about the seven hundredth hit though. Until then it was pristine with no dimpling other than the small piece that came off and stuck in my cheek just below the welding goggles I had on cause I couldn’t find my safety glasses (boy I’m glad I occasionally listen to good advice). The other minor difference you may find is how much the pin sticks out on either side. Once I had the pin fully through I was satisfied (or was it exhausted) and I left it slightly more out on the hammered side. Looking at photos I can see that my master pin has a 1/4” divot (like it was drilled) in the center whereas all other pins are smooth.

I can’t say for sure if you can get the tensioner out without splitting the track depending on the state of your track. My new track’s idler sits about four inches back compared to where it was with the worn track I replaced. That means a new track tensioner has less ability to compress much.

[Niteblaster]

Thanks for the replies I got it out today. I managed to free the spring from the end of the tensioner and pump grease in until the piston came out. New seals should be here Wednesday and hopefully I can get it back together with enough slack to get the spring back in and not have to split the track.