350C steering clutch

[Rustymetal]

New to message board has anyone changed the early style 350C clutches that take 8 fiber and 8 steel disc to the later style C and D clutches that take 6 fiber and 9 steel disc in the steering clutch I’ve been told that the later fiber and steel disc are thicker but the rest of the clutch assembly is the same any info greatly appreciated

[LeonardL]

Yes... Everything is the same. All they did was change the configuration of the discs and fibers. You shouldn't have any issues changing it to the newer style.

[Rustymetal]

Thanks for info it seems that the later style disc are easier to come by since so much of these parts are discontinued from JD and the aftermarket stuff is getting harder to find also

[Rustymetal]

I wonder why they changed the configuration of the disc in the C . I’m assuming there must have been some logical reason for doing so . Is one design better or worse than the other

[Lavoy]

Discs should be readily available, I can check with my supplier.
Lavoy

[LeonardL]

I wonder why they changed the configuration of the disc in the C . I’m assuming there must have been some logical reason for doing so . Is one design better or worse than the other

As far as I know there is or was no real advantage between the two styles. I have ran and or repaired machines with both styles and I never saw any difference in performance between the two. The only reason I can think of as for why they changed the packs would be when the metallic plates that replaced the fiber plates came out. Since they use less of them to accomplish the same need in the machine is why they went with a thicker steel plate to accommodate the thickness needed in the pack itself.

Just a note of interest, I have changed the fibers out with the newer metallic plates and kept the original steels. So they will interchange. To be honest I don't have a clue what or why Deere changed the packs. I just know they did and you can put one style or the other in all 350C's and 350D's. The 400G is the same way. They use the same clutch pack as the 350's.

[Rustymetal]

Are the fiber disc on earlier C models made of a different material than the straight 350 since the C clutches run wet and the others are a dry clutch

[LeonardL]

The fiber is the same thing but the glue used to bond the fibers together is different. The glue for a wet clutch disc is oil resistant where the dry clutch disc is not. You can use the wet style fiber disc in a dry clutch but you can't use the dry discs in a wet clutch. Make sense? The wet style also has grooves milled into them for the oil to pass through while in the pack. The dry discs don't have these grooves.

[Lavoy]

Straight 350/350B is a complete fiber disc, early 350C is a paper type material bonded to a steel plate. Can not be interchanged. If I am understanding your question correctly.
Lavoy

[Rustymetal]

Makes sense on the differences this C is little different beast I’ve worked on the old 450’s quite a bit and this machine has a few things that are a little different with the wet clutch system . This one has also been gaining oil in the transmission,diff.ect and losing it from the reverser I hope to correct this issue while I’m in here so I’m trying to get as much info from the experts before I get to far ahead of myself. Hopefully I won’t have to redo anything

[LeonardL]

Your oil gain in the transmission and drive system can get in there from the reverser a couple of different ways. The steering system utilizes residual pressure in the reverser hydraulics to activate and pressurize the steering clutches. The first and easiest source to check is the steering valve that bolts onto the top of the transmission case right above the ring gear. Or directly in between the two steering clutch housings. You will notice it as a square hydraulic valve with two plungers coming out the front and the steering levers leading to it. There are O-rings between the valve and the top of transmission case. These O-rings seal this valve around the ports leading to the clutch manifolds inside the steering clutch housings. And yes they can leak to the inside of the transmission without leaking to the outside or onto the top of the transmission case.

Another source is the O-rings that seal the transfer tubes leading out of the transmission case into the steering clutch manifold. This is a rare condition but I have seen them leak.

Yet other sources would be one or more broken or badly worn steel sealing rings mounted on the clutch pack backing plate that seal the manifold and the backing plate for the clutch pack. The manifold itself can be cracked or be worn from use and these steel rings won't seal properly and will leak. So be sure to check your manifolds for wear. You can also have a leak around one of the seals for the actuator piston. The pistons can sometimes crack and leak as well. Usually if any of these sources are your source of a transfer leak you will also be having performance issues. Either a clutch that won't engage or you will have a slipping issue on one or both sides.

I hope this explains things a bit and good luck with your repairs.

[Rustymetal]

I have the control valve removed and plan on replacing all of the o-rings on all of those places along with the metal sealing rings and the seals on the piston on both sides also the inner and outer seals on the quill that supports the ring gear. I plan on replacing anything within reason that may leak with my luck the one I didn’t replace would be the one leaking