450E long track
450E long track
I have a 450E dozer that I just bought used and I'm having a problem with the transmission. When I put it in forward or reverse(although it seems to be worse in reverse), the tractor will not move till I push the clutch pedal down about a 1/4 of the way down to take up the free play, then I can let up on the pedal and the tractor will continue to move. It also gets worse the warmer the transmission gets. The transmission oil looks clean, not milky from water or anything. Could this be a clutch adjustment or something else?
Re: 450E long track
I'm not familiar with this machine, but the oil may not look milky until you drain it.
My 420 was a light coffee colored, but when I drained it the oil came out milky.
My 420 was a light coffee colored, but when I drained it the oil came out milky.
Re: 450E long track
Welcome to the board.
Just a housekeeping item. Posts about 350 machines and newer, like your 450E, should be on the Late Model Board to get best exposure, as technically there are a lot of drive train differences. This post will likely get moved over there when Lavoy, or a moderator, see it. No harm ,just letting you know why.
Someone may be along with different thoughts, but this is where I would start.
As for your question on the clutch. I don't know if you have the technical manual set TM1330OP and TM1330RE (Technical Manual 1330 Operation and Tests, Technical Manual 1330 Repair). You will likely want to get a set, as it is not just a clutch adjustment; the engine clutch and the H-L-R clutch valve need to be done together. So yes, you could have a problem in that area from your description. The TM1330 OP has the test and adjustment procedures for these and further diagnostic procedures of the drive train if needed. If you don't have the manuals, check with Lavoy, he may have them available in his store (He provides this site for us to use so we try to support him whenever possible). You can reach by email: postmaster@jdcrawlers.com or call the phone number on the homepage during CST weekday business hours. You should get an Operator's Manual as well if you don't have one. It has more info on service and maintenance adjustments normally done by owners/operators than the technical manuals.
If you don't know this, your transmission/differential and steering clutches share the same oil. You need to change all the compartments (separate drains and fills for a change) if the transmission oil is bad (total required is about 15 gallons of John Deere HY Gard or a UTHF meeting the JD20C spec). You may want to use a vacuum pump of some type to pull a sample (I'd try for a cup or so) out of the transmission, right after it has been working for a while. Put it in a clear container. Look at it right away and again after it sets over night to see if it shows contamination. Of course if you have no idea of when the oil, filter were changed and the sump screen cleaned you may want to do that anyway.
Jim
Just a housekeeping item. Posts about 350 machines and newer, like your 450E, should be on the Late Model Board to get best exposure, as technically there are a lot of drive train differences. This post will likely get moved over there when Lavoy, or a moderator, see it. No harm ,just letting you know why.
Someone may be along with different thoughts, but this is where I would start.
As for your question on the clutch. I don't know if you have the technical manual set TM1330OP and TM1330RE (Technical Manual 1330 Operation and Tests, Technical Manual 1330 Repair). You will likely want to get a set, as it is not just a clutch adjustment; the engine clutch and the H-L-R clutch valve need to be done together. So yes, you could have a problem in that area from your description. The TM1330 OP has the test and adjustment procedures for these and further diagnostic procedures of the drive train if needed. If you don't have the manuals, check with Lavoy, he may have them available in his store (He provides this site for us to use so we try to support him whenever possible). You can reach by email: postmaster@jdcrawlers.com or call the phone number on the homepage during CST weekday business hours. You should get an Operator's Manual as well if you don't have one. It has more info on service and maintenance adjustments normally done by owners/operators than the technical manuals.
If you don't know this, your transmission/differential and steering clutches share the same oil. You need to change all the compartments (separate drains and fills for a change) if the transmission oil is bad (total required is about 15 gallons of John Deere HY Gard or a UTHF meeting the JD20C spec). You may want to use a vacuum pump of some type to pull a sample (I'd try for a cup or so) out of the transmission, right after it has been working for a while. Put it in a clear container. Look at it right away and again after it sets over night to see if it shows contamination. Of course if you have no idea of when the oil, filter were changed and the sump screen cleaned you may want to do that anyway.
Jim
Re: 450E long track
Thanks for the heads up. I do have the TM 1330 manual. I will get a sample of the oil like you suggested.
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Re: 450E long track
I am not familiar with a 450E but suspect you have a main clutch ahead of the transmission. The transmission clutches will slip more readily if they are
"made up" under load. If they "make up" unloaded, as with a master clutch in, they are less likely to slip, and may not slip when you stop clutching. Same is true for a direction reverser that will soon be ready for overhaul. If you pull the steering clutches while you reverse to let the reverser "make up" then they may not slip when you release the steering clutches. You may gain a few hours but are headed for service.
"made up" under load. If they "make up" unloaded, as with a master clutch in, they are less likely to slip, and may not slip when you stop clutching. Same is true for a direction reverser that will soon be ready for overhaul. If you pull the steering clutches while you reverse to let the reverser "make up" then they may not slip when you release the steering clutches. You may gain a few hours but are headed for service.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way
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