1968 350 Diesel starter question

[Andy B]

Half the time when I attempt to start my crawler, the starter spins, but the engine doesn't turn over. Eventually after trying 10 or 15 times, the drive gear on the starter engages the flywheel, and the engine turns over and starts right up. I am guessing this means either something in the over run mechanism in the starter is slipping, or the solenoid isn't pushing the drive gear far enough forward to engage the flywheel. It sounds like the solenoid is operating every time I push the start button. It doesn't seem to matter if the engine is warm or cold.

I am thinking about pulling the starter out and seeing if it is just something in the over run mechanism. Or maybe the solenoid action.

I have never pulled a starter apart and have no idea what is actually wrong with my starter.

My question is, would it be easier, and obviously a lot quicker, to just buy a new/rebuilt starter, and swap it right in and then fix my current starter and keep it as a spare (or eventually sell one of the starters since I really don't need two)?

Any idea where a new/rebuilt starter would be available and in stock? If they are only $200 or so, I think buying one to put right in is the better option. We will be getting snow sooner than later, and I need to use the crawler to clear a gravel driveway.

Thanks and Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!

EDIT: my crawler is a '68. I updated the subject. Ser # 076627

Andy B.

[mty]

Hi, I don't claim to be a stellar mechanic or even a mechanic but certainly a good parts replacer. It sounds like the bendix is out, you can get starters rebuilt relatively fast. It seems most decent size cities have several shops that specialize in rebuilding alternators and starters. I can't remember any of them in the greater Scranton area but they should be easy to find. Your price on a new starter seems low.MTY

[dtoots1]

Not sure how easy to pull starter on the 350s, but usually the starter bendix is at least partially exposed when out of the machine and visual inspection can determine if spring is broken or unit simply has a bunch of crud ...or even critter nests in it...inspection is a good place to start! and getting it rebuilt probably much cheaper..

[Jim B]

It may be as simple as some rust on the solenoid plunger and cleaning the plunger and solenoid will fix it. For lube at the most wipe the surfaces with a rag having a bit of oil on it. You don't want much there or it will collect dust and dirt, leading to sticking.

That said. I would recommend you take yours to a shop that overhauls them or exchange yours for a rebuilt one at a place that sells them, for a couple reasons. One, you say you are not familiar with starters. Yes, you can learn but you might be pulling it off a few times before you get it right (or decide to exchange it for a rebuilt). While apart the armature and fields should be tested and replaced if needed as well as brushes, springs and bushings, and the commutator may need to be turned. Tooling needed to properly do some of those things I don't expect you have. Second, you may find you have to remove the fuel transfer pump to get room enough to pull the starter out.

Common practice is you turn your old starter in when you get a rebuilt. You can pay the core charge and keep it if you want. It is highly likely your JD dealer will have a rebuilt starter. I expect Lavoy could get one for you. Most auto parts stores can cross reference the JD part number or the 7-digit Delco Remy number from the tag (if it is still on the starter).

If you don't have a parts catalog here is a link to the straight 350 online one. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/nav ... ment/62257
Jim

[Andy B]

Thank you, all!

I will check tonight to see if I have to pull the fuel pump to get the starter out.

I think it's just dirty from being more than 50 years old and having sat for a while before I bought it. I guess if I get it out, and it looks like a bigger project, I'll have it out as the core for the exchange anyway. LOL

It won't be until Friday that I get to actually pull the starter. I'll report back my findings.....

[Jim B]

Your JD350 service manual, SM2063, should have some info on starter repairs, it will be helpful on the solenoid and Bendix drive if you decide to open it up.

[Lavoy]

Unless you like pulling starters and/or having a crawler that sometimes doesn't start, why not just replace the starter or have it completely rebuilt, then you are done.
Lavoy

[Andy B]

Lavoy,

Don't worry. Once a starter goes back in (notice I didn't say it had to be the original starter LOL) I don't plan on taking it back out.

I'd already have it out, but I won't have the piece of pipe cut in half to support the loader cylinders until tomorrow night. I do pay attention to your tips!

Andy B

[Andy B]

It looks like the fuel pump and dipstick tube need to come out. They don't look too bad to remove.

[Lavoy]

Yeah, fuel pump interferes for sure, kind of a pin in the butt, but not terrible.
Lavoy

[The Jug]

Just replace with the new type high tork half the size not bad price either . Go to starter shop bring the one you have they should know exactly watt you need if not let me know ill get you part number .

[Andy B]

I got the starter out yesterday afternoon. It involved an odd assortment of socket and extension pieces to get at the starter bolts. I don't know what the engineers were thinking.

The gasket between the solenoid and main starter body was some type of plastic, or 50 year old rubber, and was split in half and very stiff. It was jammed up into the plunger and between that and a bunch of crud, I believe that was my issue.

I cleaned everything in the solenoid and reassembled with a new gasket. Everything seemed to work fine on the bench. The drive gear popped out to full extension every time I activated it.

I did have to break one line on the fuel priming pump. My phone is being a pain, so I can't post a pic at present, but my pump is an aftermarket one. There is no priming lever. How do I prime the diesel lines? I figure as long as I'm in there, I'm going to change the two fuel filters as well.

[Jim B]

Are you sure the lever hasn't fallen off the transfer pump? I've seen that happen. The new pumps (the non-rebuildable ones without the sediment bowl) are not expensive. I would replace the pump with one with the priming lever, you are right there now, and it may be in a much less convenient location next time you need to prime it.

[Andy B]

Jim B,

When I was putting everything back together just now I checked. The replacement transfer pump I have does not have a priming lever. The mounting point is on the pump casting, but is isn't machined for the priming lever. So, I guess I will be spending some money! Since I can't see any way to prime the system without that lever. One thing I was always told about any diesel engine, is never run the high pressure fuel pump dry, or you will be buying a new one.

[Andy B]

Lavoy was correct, as usual.
The starter was so much fun to pull out, I did it twice. LOL
Something is still not right with the solenoid, and the local Deere dealer had a starter for $200. New starter installed and it starts right up!

Once I figured out the correct collection of tools to get the starter out initially, the second time around went quickly. And the sun was out, so it wasn't a bad project.