Straight 350 dozer PTO/Winch output cover

[nhbill]

My new to me Dozer is leaking from the transmission rear cover. It is leaking from the PTO/Winch output cover gasket and one of the ears is broken off the cover. It appears to me there is a cap and a spacer, both which have a broken ear.

A post in this threadhttp://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... hp?t=12223 seems to indicate since I have a PTO lever, I would have a PTO shaft not a winch shaft. It also states a PTO shaft could be removed without removing the rear cover but the winch shaft would require the rear cover to be removed for the shaft to be pulled.

Can whatever shaft is behind that cover be removed and left out with no ill effects? Can the rear cover be pulled with the transmission in place without shafts and gears falling out of place? It would be a lot easier to make a flat replacement cap than to have to make a cap to cover a stub shaft. In a perfect world, I'd get replacement cap parts but I doubt I'll find them.

It looks to me like I have parts 4A and 4B in this schematic:
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sid ... gId/182801

Pics of the problem cover:

[Jim B]

I think you have the 4B cover, at least I can't see a separation, it looks like the one piece T64423 shield to me. If you have a shaft behind it I would expect it to be a winch shaft. It looks like that is NLA. If you look at the PTO shaft in the parts manual you will see it is a lot longer that that shield could cover. Yes, you can pull the rear cover and remove the winch shaft and related parts with no ill affects. The info on installing it should be in your service manual. Other options: If it is leaking in the interface between the shield and rear housing cover you could replace the gasket(s)using some #2 Permatex on both sides of the gasket. A new grade 8 capscrew with a couple SAE flat washers, where the ear(s) are broken away, should clamp things enough to seal it. Or you could have an open center collar made to go on over shield to clamp it using appropriately longer capscrews.

[nhbill]

I think you have the 4B cover, at least I can't see a separation, it looks like the one piece T64423 shield to me. If you have a shaft behind it I would expect it to be a winch shaft. It looks like that is NLA. If you look at the PTO shaft in the parts manual you will see it is a lot longer that that shield could cover. Yes, you can pull the rear cover and remove the winch shaft and related parts with no ill affects. The info on installing it should be in your service manual. Other options: If it is leaking in the interface between the shield and rear housing cover you could replace the gasket(s)using some #2 Permatex on both sides of the gasket. A new grade 8 capscrew with a couple SAE flat washers, where the ear(s) are broken away, should clamp things enough to seal it. Or you could have an open center collar made to go on over shield to clamp it using appropriately longer capscrews.

Thanks! I like the collar idea; it is so obvious I'm kind of embarrassed that I didn't think of it. A local machine shop should be able to knock that out in short order. I do have an electric winch mount that will need some modification to accommodate the extra thickness but that should be easy enough.

I'm pretty sure there are two pieces there. If you look at the 2nd picture the outer cap separation line is obvious but the flat spot by the broken ear is about another 3/8" down the bolt. It looks like the cap ears are about 3/8" thick and the ring under the cap is another 3/8" thick and the transmission rear cover has the mating surface raised about 1/8." I'll know when I take it apart and I'll post pictures of what i find.

[Jim B]

I see what you are saying now, I was looking at the outer cast shield not being two separate pieces. Yes, it looks like you have the 4A guard (plate) which should have the shield #1 pressed into the hole in the center of it. 4B (one piece cast shield) is the part that superseded those two parts. One arrangement (#1 pressed into in 4A) or the other (4B, one piece) should have been used, not 4A guard (plate) and 4B shield.

[JWB Contracting]

You can just remove the cover portion and then put the bolts back in.

When we remove the driveshafts from machines we sell, we just make a cover to fit, takes about 30 minutes to remove the shaft, build a cover and install. We run the machine up on blocks at the back as the transmission oil level is higher than the shaft.

Winch drive shaft is worth 250-500 CAD at my place so fairly quick way to make a little extra on machines we sell. Also makes it easy to sell a winch when it’s a complete package.

[nhbill]

You can just remove the cover portion and then put the bolts back in.

When we remove the driveshafts from machines we sell, we just make a cover to fit, takes about 30 minutes to remove the shaft, build a cover and install. We run the machine up on blocks at the back as the transmission oil level is higher than the shaft.

Winch drive shaft is worth 250-500 CAD at my place so fairly quick way to make a little extra on machines we sell. Also makes it easy to sell a winch when it’s a complete package.

Thanks!

I assume the transmission rear cover (not just the shaft cap) needs to come off to pull the shaft. Is it just the shaft that I pull or is there other bits that need to come out?

[nhbill]

I do indeed have 4A and 4B. I'm not sure why; 4B is deep enough that the shaft would not bottom out without 4A.

...and by the looks of the wear on the shaft, this dozer had a winch on it for many years.

[nhbill]

I broke down and got the manual out; I hoped it wouldn't come to that

In case someone finds this in the future:
Per the book: remove the seal, remove the retaining ring/clip holding the bearing in the rear cover, and slide the shaft and bearing out of the rear cover. It took some serious persuasion with a slide hammer and I had to tap the bearing back in after I got it started to clean up the bore with some abrasive cloth before it would come all the way out.


Thanks for the help guys.