1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
I was able to find a 1/2” chain for my 450d, but it looks like my current pads are 9/16. Any chance I can run the 9/16” pads if the bolts are good and tight?
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
Doubtful. I don’t believe you can torque the bolts tight enough to hold and make up the bolt - hole difference.
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
I would echo what Bruce, said, I highly doubt it.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 597
- Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2009 10:08 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
The pads would be loose in the first 1.000 feet.
We have extra large hole 450 pads but nothing good in 1/2”.
We have extra large hole 450 pads but nothing good in 1/2”.
Jason Benesch
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2899
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
Hi,
Sounds like a lot of spacer rings to make up to me....
But that would be faster than drilling and tapping the holes....
Stan
Sounds like a lot of spacer rings to make up to me....
But that would be faster than drilling and tapping the holes....
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 265
- Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 3:36 pm
- Location: Southeast Indiana
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
From my experience, 9/16" bolt holes on your old pads would indicate you have SALT chain on there right now and the chain you're looking at with 1/2" bolt holes suggests DRY chain. Just thought I'd bring up the fact that you'd be downgrading your tracks. Not that it would really matter but from what I know, the SALT chain separation is much easier with a detachable master link (alligator style) and DRY chain has the dreaded master pin that you'll need to beat out.
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
My thoughts exactly!! SALT tracks cost more but last twice as long. Plus being easier to install or take apart.cordlesscarpenter wrote: ↑Sun Jun 05, 2022 6:24 pmFrom my experience, 9/16" bolt holes on your old pads would indicate you have SALT chain on there right now and the chain you're looking at with 1/2" bolt holes suggests DRY chain. Just thought I'd bring up the fact that you'd be downgrading your tracks. Not that it would really matter but from what I know, the SALT chain separation is much easier with a detachable master link (alligator style) and DRY chain has the dreaded master pin that you'll need to beat out.
40 plus years working on JD 350s, 400Gs, 450s and other equipment both Ag and Construction.
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
Can you have Salt tracks without the alligator style master? Everyone of my pins has a dimple which I thought was also a sign of Salt tracks but I do not have the 2 piece master link.
JD- 450C track loader
Serial #208336T
Serial #208336T
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
Thanks for the replies guys. I have decided to pass on the 1/2 chain and will look for 9/16.
Another question: If I replace my track pads with new ones, but only do one side of the dozer, will this screw up my operation of the dozer. Will it continuously pull to one side?
Another question: If I replace my track pads with new ones, but only do one side of the dozer, will this screw up my operation of the dozer. Will it continuously pull to one side?
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 265
- Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 3:36 pm
- Location: Southeast Indiana
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
The may make them but I've never seen it. The vast majority of crawlers I've encountered have had DRY chain , mainly because they are cheaper and that's what your regular guy is going to go with for his farm or whatever. I think you'd likely find a lot more SALT chain if you went to a construction site.
I say this because if your crawler was owned by a construction company or something, there is a chance they are SALT, especially with all the pins having recesses/dimples and 9/16" bolt holes.
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
i have Trek rails on my 450C dozer that are supposed to be SALT according to the part number with alligator connection. There is no alligator link and every pin is dimpled. I need to split tracks to reseal a tension cylinder and not sure how to proceed
Re: 1/2” chain & 9/16” pads
My understanding is SALT pins are actually drilled for filling with oil, not just dimpled. They will have a poly type plug in the drilled hole where they were oil filled. Lubricated tracks (not sealed and lubricated like SALT) use grease, and the pins don't need to be drilled to fill the internal area with oil. If a regular type of master pin is used, filling can be done it the field with the right equipment to install lubricant at assembly, it is not common. The alligator link allows all the pins to be oil filled at assembly in the plant. A lubricated master pin can be field grease lubed and pressed in. Since the pitch, rail height, width, bushing diameters, etc. need to be the same to fit, the link rails themselves can be visually the same for dry, lubed, or SALT as the difference is in the sealing of the pins and bushings. I wonder if you have lubricated tracks, not SALT, if the pins are just dimpled and no alligator link. Just my understanding at present, someone may have better info for you.
Best way to remove a pin is a track pin press. Otherwise, helper(s), drive pin (with a handle), a big hammer(s), heat and determination. Set up back up for the link you are driving the pin from to make your hammer blows more meaningful.
Best way to remove a pin is a track pin press. Otherwise, helper(s), drive pin (with a handle), a big hammer(s), heat and determination. Set up back up for the link you are driving the pin from to make your hammer blows more meaningful.
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