Oh boy, need a lot of track help

[pearljam724]

I have a straight JD 450 loader. On my property, my right hand track came off the front idler. What is my best option to get it back on ? Should I remove a pad and look to break the chain ? How do i seperate the chain ? I believe some tracks have a pin that can be removed ? Is it only one master pin ? Or should I try to come along the track back onto the idler ? What a pain

[B Town]

I’m going to assume there is significant wear on your undercarriage, given that it has spontaneously derailed. If it is good to great shape there will be no short cut, but to drive the master pin out or uncouple the master link (if you have a new “wet chain”).

You can release the track adjuster, and force the grease out by compressing the front idler back into the track frame as far as possible. You can then try any number of options , including the come-along option you mentioned.

Once one, replace the furring in the track adjuster and re-tension the chain appropriately. Do not loose the small 3/8 ball bearing hiding under the fitting. It will get lost in the grease easily, and if not re-installed your track will not hold tension.

God bless short cuts (when they work)

[pearljam724]

There is no significant undercarriage wear. It’s actually in great shape. How do I find the master link and what do I do if it’s under the machine ? What a nightmare

[pearljam724]

How do you prevent loosing the ball bearing under the fitting. There is a grease blender besides the grease fitting to release idler tension as you stated. Is the bearing unde there or the grease fitting ?

[Jim B]

Under the set screw, that is the release point.

[pearljam724]

Ok, I understand the 3/8 ball bearing apart. I’m going to have to pull the idler back with a come along. Hoping I can use a come along to pull the track back over top of the idler. The under carriage is only a few years old and in great shape. What I did find was there is a big nut centered on the outside of the idler. This big nut has a grease fitting attached to it. I found that big nut was loose as a goose. Would that bug nut being loose cause the track to come off ? The idler grease seals we’re just replaced in the last several months. Maybe someone forgot to tighten that big nut when they replaced the grease seals. I know the seals were replaced because the previous owner told me he did it and the parts packages are inside the battery box.

[boaterri]

I have had a track come off several times before I rebuilt the undercarriage on my 450C track loader. Didn't split the track to get it back on. After releasing the grease from the track tensioner, compress it with a block of wood and using the bucket curl (or with the bucket as a hard point, use a bottle jack and blocking to compress the tensioner). Lift the machine slightly with a big bottle jack at the rear and block it up. Lift the front with the bucket and block it up. Two come a longs and a steel toothpick later the track was on. The front bucket is good for lifting and stretching the track as well. Pump up the track tensioner and away you go. You will want 6x6 blocking, tow straps or cable, 10 ton bottle jack, 2 come-a-longs, minimum of 1 rock stick (steel toothpick) , cooler full water (or thermos full of coffee location dependent).

The first time it took a couple of hours. The second time, after I figured out where and how to push and pull, I was back in business in 45 minutes.

Good luck, be careful, it is a small machine but still weighs enough to really ruin your day. Be sure to use 6x6 or 8x8 blocking when you lift the machine, don't get under it unless it is blocked up.

Rick

[pearljam724]

Thanks, Rick. That’s the kind of suggestions I was looking for. I own a large estate and the bad news is it’s on the property out in the woods. I have no other heavy equipment except a dump truck and a compact loader tractor. I bought a good come along a couple hours ago. I realize I can use the front loader to lift the front end and pull on the tracks with. I have a 20 ton bottle jack. A couple very large pry bars. I believe once I compress the idler and jack the rear I should be ok. The challenge is going to be jacking the rear. The ground is soft here due to the time of the year. I can use a tree nearby to pull the track outward onto the idler. Hopefully the tree holds up to pulling otherwise there’s not a lot of other options due to its location. How much would one guess that the idler moves once compressed ? 2-3 inches ? I want to avoid splitting the track at all cost. I’m a one man band.

[boaterri]

I don't remember how much the idler moves but it is a good amount. Your compact tractor loader can also be very useful to lift/pull or also parked in the right place as a deadman for the come-a-long.

Lifting the rear, a stack of 2'x2'x 3/4" plywood then some 2x6 will spread the load as the first layer of blocking under the jack. I lifted from the underbelly counter weight and put the blocking under the final drive housing near the sprocket.

Good luck, be safe. Have a cell phone with you if you are alone in the woods working on the machine.


Rick

[original possum]

Just out of curiosity, why do you lift the rear if it is still on the sprocket?

[Gwilkrrs]

I blocked up under the rear with 6x6 blocks under the draw bar and then used the bucket (teeth down) to lift the front up- the front raises up till it hits the rear blocking allowing for the machine to be blocked in the air to release any weight/tension on the tracks-

[boaterri]

Just out of curiosity, why do you lift the rear if it is still on the sprocket?

You need to lift the machine to get the track under the lower rollers. Lifting both ends is easier and safer than lifting the front a WHOLE bunch.

[pearljam724]

I worked on it a couple hours yesterday. The track is very close to being back on. I had to take a break away from it as my chinese come along broke. I exchanged it for a new one today. The only part of the track not on at this point is the bottom rollers. I learned, yes without a doubt both front and rear of machine needs to be raised. I found that the idler has some considerable slop when prying on it. I don’t know if this amount of slop is normal with the tension removed from the idler. But, something is telling me it’s normal. I stopped at my local John Deere store to see if I could price a complete idler assembly and they said the only part available to buy is the wheel and the bushing. Other parts aren’t available. I would take a guess if my wheel is not showing a lot of wear the most important component to replace would be the outside cradle that test on the rail. I imagine that part causes wheel slop ? I don’t know what my best option is to obtain a complete idler ? I see there are ones on Ebay for around $1200. I’m hoping there are better options than that. My undercarriage is in impressive condition. Chain and pads are excellent. So are sprockets and rollers.

[Jim B]

You need to determine how much play there is in the shaft and bushings inside the idler, then how much is wear on the rails where the guides and brackets ride. There are wear straps and shims in the brackets and weld on strips on the rails that can be replaced. Things can be built up with weld if needed. Your service manual (SM2064) should cover checking and shimming the idlers and slide brackets.

Talk with Lavoy on parts he may have the ability to supply what you need or suggestions of where to check.

[B Town]

“I found that the idler has some considerable slop when prying on it. I don’t know if this amount of slop is normal with the tension removed from the idler. But, something is telling me it’s normal.”


This is not normal. Given the fact that the rest of the undercarriage is I great nick, I would say this may be mainly responsible for the chain derail. Hope you get it fixed.

? Do you have rock guards on the machine??