Rusted lines leaking?

[supertramp]

I have a Deere 450 with a 6-way blade, and it appears to be leaking oil from the boom lift or tilt circuit. Upon inspection, there was about an inch of dirt/rust flakes/water/oil sitting in the bottom of the battery box where the hard lines run. They have seen better days. I am not sure if there is a pinhole leak somewhere but nothing seems apparent when I inspect them here. I got a quote for 250 per line to replace them with new stock. I am tempted to replace these lines with high-pressure flexible lines instead, as a result. Would this be a bad idea? Can I get them pressure tested somewhere?
https://imgur.com/a/1TuA4Wi
AT31997 from the Tilt Circuit
https://avs.parts/deere/catalog/450c-bu ... 7/4050372/
and
5. AU13887 [1] Oil Line CROSSOVER
6. AU13883 [1] Oil Line CROSSOVER
from the lift circuit
https://avs.parts/deere/catalog/450c-bu ... 7/4050357/

[pearljam724]

A suggestion. A suggestion that will save you a boat load of money. I’m no expert, but I’m not a dummy either. I just bought a 450 about a month ago and it too recently busted a hydraulic hose. Some guys might say what I’m about to tell you is unsafe. But, that is a load of bull crap. I received quotes of $190 each for 4 lines that run my loader. I told myself, no way in hell and found a better option for me and worked great. If you have a Rural King or comparable store near you. They sell 2 , 3 , and 4 foot sections of 3/4 hydraulic hose with the end fittings attached. All 4 of my lines are 6 foot each. I simply bought two 3 foot sections and connected them together with a female to female adapter. Each hose only cost me $70 compared to $190 each. Works just as well and I have not the slightest leak. You could do the same with those hard piped sections if you remove them.

[DavidG]

I replaced all the hoses on a 6way 350C last spring and used discounthydraulichose.com. Paid $300 delivered for 8 3/8 hoses. We have a crimping machine at work and it was cheaper to get those delivered than to buy fittings and hose and crimp them myself.

[Jim B]

Many steel tubes have been replaced with hoses. There is nothing wrong with using the Rural King, Tractor Supply, Surplus Center, etc., pre-made 2 wire hydraulic hoses, if you chose. One needs to be sure the working pressure rating of the hose is greater than the system's pressure setting (bursting pressure of a hydraulic hose should be about 4 times the rated working pressure). Also use real hydraulic couplers to connect them, not hardware store 150 psi rated fittings, generally intended for use in water systems. A 150psi rated fitting in a 2000 psi (plus) hydraulic system is asking for trouble. Be sure the hoses are secured and routed out of harm's way as much as possible. The cons of using the pre-made hoses over having length specific hoses made, are the number of connections that may be required to make a long hose, the extra fittings join them, and end adapter fittings (if the hose end doesn't match the end point connection) to purchase.

As for testing the steel lines. Full service hydraulic shops that rebuild pumps and cylinders often have a test bench and might be able to do it, however I don't know as it would be cost effective. You could get fittings to match the tubing ends, a Tee, fittings, a 5000 psi gauge and use a hand port-a-power pump to make you own test unit to test them. Again, it may not be cost effective.

[supertramp]

So the local auto shop will do flex lines to 5k psi, which is where I have them made normally. However, I will run them to a hydraulic place to get the existing ones pressure tested. I also note a wear pattern on the metal clamp that held these lines; there was no rubber so it was metal-on-metal holding these suckers in place. That said, no obvious wear marks on the lines themselves could be seen amongst the pitting. I may go with flex lines if they end up being cheaper, as I think the custom hard tubing will be more difficult to fabricate and therefore more costly.

[supertramp]

One line ended up failing and I ended up forgetting about this post and got one made for a cool $200 or so. But hey, it's stainless, and shiny. Too bad it's hidden under the seat! It fixed the leak, and I got the machine started this past Sunday. Now I've found it has a new leak, this time at the radiator, perhaps the transmission cooler hose or the main hydraulic line. More to investigate.

[boaterri]

I had a small crack develop in the hard line coming from the hydraulic cooler. Had it brazed with good success. No leaks for 5 years since the repair was done.
If it is mechanical damage, not corrosion where the line is paper thin, this might be an option.