JD350B Brakes

[original possum]

I hate to say this, but it sounds like your reverser is the problem. When you have it in gear with the clutch out and it doesn't move but does after you pull the clutches then it is certain. When you pull the clutch handle you unload the reverser and the reverser clutch will hold at least for awhile. If it quits moving on its own you have no choice but to overhaul the reverser. When the clutches get worn out and start to slip you can still use the machine for a bit by shifting the reverser and then pulling clutches both at once to let the clutch engage unloaded, and it will go when you let the handles forward. Works but only for a while.

[Jblanks]

I'm gonna check all pressures on reverse this weekend. Pulling the reverser sounds like a job. I'm guessing the engine has to be pulled. Will I need any special tools for the job

[LeonardL]

You will only need common tools if you end up pulling the reverser. You will need a 3/4 inch drive socket set and a couple large wrenches. Everything else is common size stuff. My advice is to check everything else first before going to the trouble of pulling the reverser.

I am a bit puzzled by your description of how this thing acts when you let the clutch pedal out and it starts to bog the engine. Will it completely kill the motor if you continue to let it out? I'm not convinced your reverser is bad. You're trying this thing in third gear? What does it do in first gear? I'm curious what this thing sounds like when you have the transmission in neutral, motor running? Your reverser should shift from one direction to another with a hesitation between the shift of a second or two. I'm curious if the reverser is making any kind of noise other than the normal 350 rattle and the high pitched singing of the gear train?

Otherwise check your pressures and go from there.

[Jblanks]

I dont hear any strange noises. In 1st gear, the tractor will move back and forth but the engine sounds a bit more labored than I would expect it to. 2nd gear is the same but a bit more labored. 3rd gear is a real challenge and 4th gear it won't even move without bogging down the engine near the point of staling. The reverser operates as you described with a hesitation between forward and reverse. It really feels like trying to drive a vehicle with the parking brake on. I don't smell brakes burning or feel any heat around the brake band after driving.

[Lavoy]

Something is dragging. Back the brakes off and if it eases up it was the brakes. If not, it is mechanical issue. Either way, find out what is wrong for sure before continuing to drive it. IF it is not the brakes, you are just likely tearing up much more expensive parts, so I would move it only to get final diagnosis.
Lavoy

[Jblanks]

I haven't moved it more than 20 feet since coming off the trailer. Is it OK if back off the brake band completely just to see if that's the problem

[Jblanks]

I backed the brakes off. No change. Is the rattle in the reverse housing normal?

[LeonardL]

Yes the rattle is normal. Aka the 350 rattle. That rattle is a combination of things but is manly the countershaft inside the reverser. The isolator will rattle on start up and then your counter shaft will continue until you raise the engine rpm.

What is your track tension like? If your tracks are too tight they will drag the machine down the same as if the brakes are too tight. Another thing you need to check is to see if there are any bolts in the back end of the clutch housings that could be threaded in deep enough to reach the brake band. One of the other guys mentioned having an implement or an attachment which will cause this issue. Just because you don't have an attachment of some sort doesn't mean there can't be a bolt sticking through the housing. Not all dry clutch housings are bored all the way through but some were.

You may also have rust build up in the bottom of the clutch housings. If that becomes heavy enough it can bind your brake bands enough to cause your issue.

I'm still not convinced this is a reverser issue. Check your track tension and and if this machine has sat for a long time it could be rust binding the pins and bushings in the track rails.

If your reverser is bad then it will bind the motor even if the transmission is in neutral. You can check your pressures to be sure but I'm still thinking like Lavoy said. Something is binding the machine after the reverser.

I would block this machine up off the ground and loosen things up as much as you can. Start eliminating things that kind bind. Back the track tension off and see if you can bar the tracks over by hand. Transmission in neutral of course.

You might also want to look for hydraulic issues that can cause binding. Usually that will occur before you do anything with the machine and will dog the motor before hand. But I have had a couple of issues where hydraulic bypassing was the binding issue.

[Jblanks]

I'm servicing the reverser now. Waiting on a new filter. The fter was pretty dirty. The tracks are really stiff. They don't touch the idlers. I've oiled them some but probably need to get more aggressive with it to try and free them up. I would guess the track tension is a little loose but like I said tracks are really stiff. Ill check on the bolts tomorrow but I don't think there are any issues there. I cleaned out the bypass on the reverser and adjusted the set screw to speed up shifting a little. Pressures were ok but I will recheck as soon as I get new fluid in it

[Jim B]

Your manuals likely call for using John Deere 303 Special Purpose Oil in the reverser. Printed service and Operator's manuals don't get updated, unfortunately. You may know this but in case you haven't heard it you need to use John Deere Hy Gard or a UTHF meeting the JDM J20C specification, in place of the 303. 303 has been obsolete since 1974. It contained Sperm whale oil which became unavailable with the Endangered Species Act in 1974. You will see some distributors selling oil products called 303, but it cannot be since they can't have sperm whale oil. There have been lawsuits over such products and their sale is banned in some locations. If you go with an aftermarket product (like TSC Traveler Premium UTHF) look at the label. It should list the manufacturer specs it claims to meet, look for John Deere J20C. If it is not there, I would not use it.

If the tracks are that stiff, that could be a lot of the problem. Water made them seize, if you can get them soaking in water it will help free them.

[dtoots1]

Actually...if drivable...best is drive thru puddles will loosen them up...it is not recommended to oil them..since that only collects dirt.and holds it...dry dirt basically falls away..or washes away even better

[LeonardL]

Yes... if you oil those tracks it will collect and then keep more dirt than if you just let them be dry. It won't hurt to use some sort of penetrant for a one time kind of thing. However water is the best resource for this as it is the best penetrant. Even if you do oil them it will eventually dry up and leave. It is the continued use that can cause the issue.

I am betting that the tracks are your issue. If you can find a good water hole or a good gravel bottom creek then it will loosen them up. The key here is to not pick something that you will get hung up in. It needs to have a good solid bottom.

Personally I would jack this thing up and put it on blocks so you can rotate the tracks off of the ground. Release the track tensioners so that you will gain a lot of slack in the tracks as they loosen up. This causes the links in the track chain to have more freedom to move as they come up and over the sprocket. Use a water source of some sort to keep soaking them while you rotate the tracks and see if they don't loosen up. I have even taken a sledge hammer and smack the track plates to help loosen them.

Now!!! Be extremely careful while you do this!!! Because it is a good way to get hurt if you are careless. Remember these machines have no feelings and they will eat you alive if you get stupid around them!!! It's better to have someone to help you so that one person can run the machine while the other does the soaking or whatever. Run it in first gear, low rpm on the motor and the reverser in the forward position.

[Jblanks]

Finished servicing the reverser and freed up the tracks for the most part. No change in performance. I'm gonna put it on blocks this weekend and see what happens

[Jblanks]

Finally got time to get it on blocks. Cleaned the tracks and got most of it loosened up. Ran the unit for probably an hour at varying speeds. I still have the same issue. I did notice that in all gears that either side will track along nicely. when you let out the opposite clutch the machine bogs down. with either side running solo the thing seems fine. What would be the common component that binds it up only when both clutches are let out

[original possum]

The only common component that I am aware of is "load", which is doubled when running both tracks rather than one. If there is any misalignment (usually caused by a spun-out bearing) of the ring gear and pinion, for example, it is much more severe with a higher load. But please, please give a more objective description of "bogs down'.