350 Stanadyne fuel inlet fitting

[Kzinti]

Did the stupid thing, ran the fuel tank low, ended up with some creeping crud in the fuel lines. Took apart the fuel lines, flushed them out, took out injection pump screen and cleaned it too, but when I went to reconnect the fuel line to the inlet fitting, the entire top of that inlet fitting cracked loose. The one that goes into the Stanadyne injector pump, with the screen. I think the replacement Deere part number is R34622, but unsure. I'm searching for the old part manuals that I put somewhere so I wouldn't lose them, but yeah, I lost them, somewhere in the mess here. The pump tag says it's a DB0331-2741 think its Model 711720 and also says AR70139. Appreciate any and all help.

[Jim B]

Using the online parts catalogs R34622 was the sleeve (large hex the fitting screws into). They show a replacement number of RE21439. I don't get a current price on either number at my JD dealer's site.

I suggest going to an injection pump shop, they might have used ones.

[Kzinti]

Great idea. I should also work on carefully removing the screwed in stub, and getting some overall dimensions, maybe photos of it to send along. I hope the rain stops long enough for me to get that much completed. Thanks!

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

You did not lose your manuals.They are in a safe place. A *very* safe place.

i have an old bookshelf in my shop. Most shelves hold various lubricant bottles. The top shelf is loaded with car, truck and tractor manuals. Makes ite asy to have them in a safe place *and* easy to find.

Stan

[Kzinti]

I imagine they are so safe, that even if my life was to be threatened to produce them, I couldn't give up their location,

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Double Secret Safe!

One step lower than Burned Before Reading.

Stan

[Kzinti]

Update: Been busy. So, I called John Deere today, talked with a very helpful parts guy for almost an hour. No luck on the fitting. After conferring with a few people there in the parts department, the verdict came back to, 'nobody at John Deere has one, just buy it from the original manufacturer'. Great, who would that be? Silence... Uh, not sure. But they did leave me with a contact of a nearby pump repair shop, whom I called next. Again, very friendly, gave him part information, etc, he came back with the same part number the Deere guys had been talking, and they have 3 assemblies sitting on the shelf, but he needed to talk to someone first before he could sell me one. He said something about setting the pressure correctly. On the fuel inlet? Anyways, I need to take off the end cap, get the remaining inlet sleeve part out of there, and run it up to their shop to take a look at it. If there is something needing to be set, they said they could measure off the old one and get it close enough by mirroring the gap and adjusting the new one close to it. Otherwise, it's time to pull the whole unit and spend $800 labor plus parts to rebuild the thing. Apparently these sleeve things are coated in gold, because they said the part alone will run about $250 for the new one. So there goes my afternoon tomorrow. Need to pack up the tools and the saran wrap to cover everything after I take it apart.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

In my experience, it is always worthwhile to have an old IP redone by the pump shop. There are all sorts of little things they take care of. Yes, the old pump works and works but it slowly loses performance and you can't readily tell. Until something finally beaks (such as mouse turds) and you get it re-done. Once you put it back on, *now* you can readily tell that the performance had been well and truly off.

Stan

[Kzinti]

Update: Had to drive 5 hours round trip to Iola, KS to pick up the part Thursday, as I had a buddy coming over to help with some other service stuff on Friday. The hour I spent there was very educational indeed. The tech there talked about al sorts of things that were good to know. He explained about the fuel pressure settings on the broken part, and set it using the old one as a gauge, but did explain that if it was running right after, it would definitely need to have the pump removed and sent in for rebuild and calibration.

I went over Thursday evening when I got back to town and installed the new part, got all the lines flushed, removed the check valve and cleaned it just in case. Good news was there there were no black particles in the check valve. Friday, we pulled apart the fuel filter assembly, cleaned the bejeebus out of it, installed new fuel filters, bled the system all the way through, but only got about two cranks in before the battery died. So that ended the day there. Pulled the battery out and have it charging back here at the house. Fingers crossed, no leaks anywhere so far, knock on wood. Will be a few days before I can get the battery back over and get it running though. Next up is replacing a couple of worn and one missing bucket teeth.

Also wanted to throw in a huge thank you to TwistedWillys for the fuel filter removal, cleaning and installation guideline posted here: viewtopic.php?t=8799