350B hourmeter

dale · Post by **dale** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:46 am

Going over to look at a 350B loader w/ 4n1. Serial # 176274T. Pictures of the machine make it look like it's in good to very good condition. Not sure where to find the hourmeter though. Current owner says there isn't one, but the JD website shows one in fig A of the control panel. I am confused.

CatD8RII · Post by **CatD8RII** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:35 pm

Hi
The hourmeter should be on the left hand lower seat frame, behind the transmission level dipstick. You have to me off the machine to see it.
Hope this helps

dale · Post by **dale** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:52 am

Yep, that should help. Thanks

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:20 am

Hi,

Provided that it's still there - and working - of course. I've seen many that weren't.....

Stan

digitup · Post by **digitup** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:07 pm

If it is even there on the kick plate under the seat look to see if it even still works .The big trick was to rent those old Deeres by the hour and unplug the hour meter from behind I would have forgot to plug it back in .Most of those hour meters were accurate there are several different types ,Turn the ignition on for six minutes and see if it gives you 1/10 th of an hour or some went from black square to white square every 1/1000 of an hour [5or 6 seconds ]some thing like that.Deere used several different types over the years.Digitup.

dale · Post by **dale** » Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:18 pm

Went and looked at the machine today. Specifically asked them not to have it warmed up. First impressions.....decent paint, pads really good, sprockets in nice shape, pins were nice and round, most hoses were well weathered but no signs of leaks. Hour meter showed 1045.6 engine felt cold (about 35 degrees out) fired off easily with no smoke. Accelerated nicely, loader and 4n1 worked ok, no slop in pins and bushings. Forward and reverse, good. Right steering good, no snake in the tracks, No left steering

Ran it long enough for hourmeter to show 1046.3. Sale price negotiated to $5700.00

Now, question is, how much to repair steering clutch? Is there a kit or....?
Ballpark price would be nice.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 1:48 pm

Hi,

Was the left track driving? I presume it turned sharply right when you tried the right side steering, indicating that power is getting to the left side.

If the left is not driving well, you're in for a clutch job for sure.

It may be that you have an oil leak on the left side that swelled the fiber discs up. If so, it'll not steer left as it can't disengage. If so, you'll need to to the usual replace everything trick. Nothing can help swollen fibers other than replacement.

It may be that the adjustment is off on the left side and it doesn't disengage (no steer left at all) or disengages but doesn't brake (slow steering to the left). This might be an easy fix. Don't get your hopes up too far, though. I've rarely seen things be this simple......

It may also be that things are adjusted OK, and there's no leaks, but the steel discs are lightly rusted keeping the disengaged fiber discs from sliding along the steels as they ought to.

Sometimes you can pop it free by driving around with the left lever pulled and then working the right side a bit. Sometimes you can find a tree and put the bucket against it, stop the right side with the lever and then work the left one a few times so all the power is going thru the left side and the tree provides the loading so that the left track spins. Sometimes nothing works to pop it free and you're left with performing a clutch job.....

I've had it such that once the thing is apart, I can pop each fiber free from the steels with such ease that I can't believe it didn't free up with all that power going thru them - but that's how it is quite often with these things.

Later!

Stan

dale · Post by **dale** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 2:15 pm

Stan Disbrow wrote:
It may be that the adjustment is off on the left side and it doesn't disengage (no steer left at all) or disengages but doesn't brake (slow steering to the left). This might be an easy fix. Don't get your hopes up too far, though. I've rarely seen things be this simple......

It may also be that things are adjusted OK, and there's no leaks, but the steel discs are lightly rusted keeping the disengaged fiber discs from sliding along the steels as they ought to.

Stan

As the story goes......."was using the machine to move some round hay bales and it didn't steer left quite right so I adjusted the clutch for you and now there's no steering

I don't know what's wrong, but the JD dealer told me it would run 600-1000 dollars in parts + labor".
The rest of the machine is in such nice shape that I dropped my offering price and we struck a deal. It does turn right sharply, tracks were in better shape than pictures showed, all gears worked. Took my CAT mechanic buddy along and he thought I was getting a good deal, BUT he's never worked on a JD lever steer machine so.....
Heck, I'm not going on the NASCAR circuit so how often do you need left anyways

Thanks for the tricks, we'll see what happens when we get it home this coming weekend. Need to get the service manual and see how brake and clutch adjustments work.

digitup · Post by **digitup** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 4:38 pm

Dale in all cold weather the machines I have bought I get there two hours earlier than the time I tell them .I like to see cold start up and warm up it tells a lot about the conditions of both motor and power shift transmission . being right at the gauges if you can is the best .Earlier is better if they start stuffing the either to it I want to be there .I did that last week down by Sarnia and the contractor said your early I said not really I tested the block for temp just before they fired up It was the same temp as the r.o.p.s. It had sat over night that is good enough for me now fire it up.Digitup.

dale · Post by **dale** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 11:12 am

The engine was stone cold everywhere I could reach, exhaust, hoses, etc. He was moving bales Wednesday or Thursday and adjusted the clutches. So.....

But, he doesn't have any of the manuals for it either, so maybe he adjusted everything "by feel" and has everything out of whack.

I downloaded the owner's and service manuals so we could adjust them "by the book". We'll see how it goes from there.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:02 pm

Hi,

Well, one can adjust these 'by feel' once one has done it enought times to learn what 'feel' feels like!

The sequence is pretty straightforward. You want the clutch pack to disengage before the brakes come on. The adjustments are pretty small, though, so if you don't do it just right you have problems. The usual being that the brakes come on prior to the clutch pack disengaging, or things being so loose that the lever runs out of travel before anything at all happens.

I'll bet that you're in the second category as long as it steered before the famous adjustment happened and you have power to the left track still.

That might lead to some hope that performing a proper adjustment will correct the issue.

Wishing you luck on this one!

Stan

real550A · Post by **real550A** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:03 pm

Watching this thread with interest. Dale, please be sure to
let us know how this turns out. Hope it's the easy way! Mike

dale · Post by **dale** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:53 pm

the easy way, about 5 hours later, ready to clean parts and order new clutch and brake assembly. The harder part, paying for the parts

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Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 7:21 pm

I have the steering clutch parts on hand if you need them.
Lavoy

dale · Post by **dale** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 10:30 am

This is what a little hard work gets you.

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