JD 350B blade

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DBCSteve
430 crawler
430 crawler
Posts: 74
Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 2:58 pm
Location: Davis, CA

JD 350B blade

Post by DBCSteve » Mon May 26, 2008 9:05 pm

Just got a JD 350B dozer with a 6305 six way blade. The right side tilt attachment has been modified. It looks like the pivot races have been welded to the blade, so I can't simply take out shims to adjust the gap between the frame and blade. My solution is either to return to the factory design or weld a shim to fill most of the gap.

The tech manual doesn't show exactly how the blade is attached to the frame, but it looks like the blade is normally removed from the tilt frame by unbolting both pivot races. Could someone confirm this or the right way to remove the blade as it was originally designed, and maybe post a photo or two?

I have the operator and tech manuals for the crawler and 6305 for reference. Got 'em in download version from the JD bookstore thanks to messages from this web site.

Thanks much. I'm new to the JD 350 series, which is much better than the older dozers I've worked on: Cat D4 7U and International TD9. Even with all the play in the blade, a six way blade is a dream to use!

Steve
Davis, California
JD 450C, Serial No. 316559T
formerly owned JD 350B, Serial No. 126738T
Kubota L3400 top-n-tilt

pdmech08

Post by pdmech08 » Tue May 27, 2008 10:25 am

Steve:
If it were me I'd elect to cut the welds and return to the original setup. The plates that bolt on can be built up where worn and so can the angle frame where bolt on plates ride. You'll probably encounter a broken bolt or two, or at least some bad threaded holes, but all of that can be fixed. You're on the right track..

jbrown
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 15
Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:08 am

450C blade

Post by jbrown » Fri Oct 03, 2008 10:46 am

I have a 450 C where the blade is very sloppy.I installed the bushing for the one angle cylinder ,wich helped. I bought the 2 bushings for the middle pin which is sloppy .The bolt on plates on mine are allso worn down. You say the best way for this is to weld bulid up on plates,and where plates contack? The plates contack area is at an angle and so is the contack area.Weld it and grind it back? On the other side of contack area,should it be flat and flush? and on the blade on the back of blade ? How hard will it be to replace the middle pin bushings?

pdmech08

Post by pdmech08 » Fri Oct 03, 2008 11:12 am

Jbrown: Contact areas are all flat. None are supposed to be angled. The angling you are refering to is wear. Center blade bushings are not a bad job if they fit tight. Many are loose in the push frame and new ones fall in. Thats when welding and align boring come in. Most all of those worn parts are available new as weld on replacement assemblies too. Cut the old off and weld on new ones. If you have other questions feel free to contact me directly if you'd like. Steve.

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