Greetings from a new member.... I have enjoyed reading many of the very informative posts this past week in my quest for information. Since I haven't found this specific piece of info, I hope someone has a quick answer.
I am looking at a 1966 JD 350 loader with a 93 backhoe. Other than "lot rot" it is in great shape--less than 1000 hours. All of the pins and rollers appear to have very little wear and the sprocket is virtually unworn. The years outside, however, have taken their toll. The seller tells me that before use I will need to remove the tracks (which are quite rusty), the sprocket, and the final drive cover, remove and clean the drive steering clutches. He says he's had to do that twice before--that they will "swell" and stick after sitting for a long while (I presume he means "rust"). Is it possible to free sticking clutches without having to remove them? It seems to me that they should be able to be broken free and allowed to wear in again. Is there any inspection cover to this area? If the clutches need replacing, how much do the clutch sets run?
If I decide to do the work, the price seems right (less than $6000) for a machine that is, wear wise, in good shape.
Thanks!
Jim
JD 350 Steering Clutches
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
The problem is that the steering clutch packs are made up of interspaced steel and fiber discs. The steel discs will rust. The fiber ones will absorb moisture from the air and swell up.
There's not much space for any swelling in there, so if they do then the thing will drive OK - just not steer. While one can sand the fibers back down if they are just *slightly* swollen, the best plan is to replace all the fibers and steels *and* the brake band while you have the thing all apart.
Trying to cut corners here usually means that one has to re-do the job in short order....
Stan
The problem is that the steering clutch packs are made up of interspaced steel and fiber discs. The steel discs will rust. The fiber ones will absorb moisture from the air and swell up.
There's not much space for any swelling in there, so if they do then the thing will drive OK - just not steer. While one can sand the fibers back down if they are just *slightly* swollen, the best plan is to replace all the fibers and steels *and* the brake band while you have the thing all apart.
Trying to cut corners here usually means that one has to re-do the job in short order....
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Re: JD 350 Steering Clutches
Hi Jim-CavinJim wrote:Is it possible to free sticking clutches without having to remove them? It seems to me that they should be able to be broken free and allowed to wear in again. Is there any inspection cover to this area?
Thanks!
Jim
I am not sure about the early 350s, but I believe my 2010 crawler has inspection plates to each side of the seat on top of each steering clutch housing. Your owner or service manul should show them.
There have been a number of people that have freed stuck clutches by driving into an unmovable object (rock bluff, large tree, etc.) and then working the steering levers. You may get lucky and free them temporarily; this will be a temporary fix if oil has gotten onto the fiber discs.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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