Radiator trouble,

[squarede]

I was able to complete the valve adjust on my 350, but what I neglected to mention is that I was doing it to kill time while pondering on my radiator.
I had a stick push the fan blade into the rad. (don't ask), and I took the nose off and radiator out.
I was able to solder the leak, but when I put the rad. in a tank under pressure I found LOTS of pinhole leaks. I fixed them all, but after driving around a little bit one of the leaks opened up.
I took the rad out again and fixed the leak reinstalled and am ready to fire up again.
What I am wondering is whether I should consider this re-leak a fluke or if I'll be OK.
I was thinking of using some BARS leak stuff before I drive it around again.
Is this a mistake or a good idea.
I've never used any kind of magic cure before, but I need to get back to work and can't afford a new radiator.
BTW I was really wishing for one of those cranky things to turn the engine during the valve adjust.

[digitup2]

Look into getting the rad recored localy it should be 50 to 75 % of new rad cost .I got the rad recored for my 350D widetrack for 50% new cost .Digitup .

[squarede]

I'm going to check out the options on Monday.
There are a couple of good shops around here.
My main concerns are that I really need my machine working right now and that I looked into a new radiator from Deere and it was over $1500.00

[gene s]

i've never put too much confidence into these "magic cures", like magic , I always see them as a short term ilusion. But just like those funky little spare tires you get in new cars, it will get you by for a short time. I agree that the best fix is to have it recored, but only if the tanks are in good shape. A good shop will check that out. We had to put a new radiator in a Kenworth not too long ago because our local shop said the tanks were near faliure. I was floored by the price of that thing, it cost about twice what my first new car in 1971 cost. But at least I didn't waste money on a fix that wouldn't have lasted.

[squarede]

I agree. I'm real skeptical when it comes to ANY Magic.
I'm definitely from the I have to see it to believe it school.
I guess my thought right now is to start up again and see if my repair is holding, If it leaks go for the Bars leak since I'll need to re-core any way.
Either way I'll make a plan to recore ASAP.
Problem is that as I stated I and short on $ and need to be skidding logs now.
I'm also going to take a hard look at the rubber mounts and see if they could be failed and causing too much stress on the radiator.
Lately I feel more like a mechanic than a farmer!

[Glen Breaks]

I've used Bars leak on several old leaking rads over the years with very good results. In one case it didn't work, that was the rad on my seldom used 1947 Clark forklift which leaked profusely when I got it. I tried Bars leak on it, but it didn't hold.
I then tried a product which is made of what appear to be little aluminium pellets, as I recall the name was aluma-seal or luma seal. That was in 1997 and the rad is still dry.
In the advertising for the luma seal it was claimed that a very large percentage of new car cooling systems get a dose of this stuff right at the factory. They claim that their product includes a lubricator which extends pump life.
not sure I believe that one, but I can testify to the sealing properties of both Bars leak and this heavier duty product, Luma-seal.

[digitup2]

Bars leaks is a good product but as like most good things too much is a bad thing .When I recored the rad on my old 650G I found that Deere installed dubble core rads on anything destined for the north country and I was able to triple core for minimum bucks extra .Deere didn't cut corners years ago .But times have changed and you wouldn't even think of recoring a 550J rad .Digitup.

[squarede]

Seems like my second attempt at repair is holding.
maybe a fluke the first -I definitely could have banged the radiator during installation.
So fa so good. If it leaks again, I'm putting in the bars leak.
Thanks for the help.
Ray