replacing brake band

Paul45 · Post by **Paul45** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:34 am

I think I need to replace right side brake band. I tried to adjust the bands as the book says, but there is no more adjustment left on the right side brake band bolt.
Does anyone have a procedure for taking this apart they could email me?
1 Is it recomended to change both sides? I was able to adjust left side and it does work better now.
2 is it recomended to change other parts when you have this all apart?

Thank you ahead of time for taking the time to respond and for your knowledge and help!!!!

gene s · Post by **gene s** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:30 am

When I've done it, I did one side at a time, and not even in the same season. Your service manual will walk you through it if you've never done it before. I found removing the finals not that difficult. The hardest part for me was track removal because of a stubborn pin. I always inspect all parts for wear or other problems. My clutch discs were oily on the left side once because of a bad seal so the necessary parts were replaced. All other parts were operational and reinstalled.

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 12:28 pm

No need to do them both at the same time. It will tick you off however when you feel how nice the side you just rebuilt steers vs. the other side.
Lavoy

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 8:46 pm

Its actually pretty easy. I am very new to heavy machines and have no professional expierence as a mechanic and was able to do it all by hand without any fancy tools. I was able to take the track off without removing the master link, pulled the counter weights off with a floor jack, took the sprocket off with a sledge hammer and 4' breaker, pulled the 10 or so bolts that hold the final drive and pulled the final drive with a floor jack, then your looking at 5 minutes to pull swap the brake band. Since you have the final drive off I'd clean out the clutch pack...also pretty easy. I have found the longest part of the process is getting in the new parts, and it really makes you want to do more work to the machine while your at it.

digitup2 · Post by **digitup2** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 3:01 pm

years ago I did one side in a swamp hole without breaking a track pin loose.Yes a steering clutch can be repaired without taking it all apart but there isn't much room to work and you will add new words to your vocabulary .I didn't spend much time in the swamp as the mosquito's weren't helping much . When I told my repair man and he thought I was runnin him a line .That was a 450B that I had then .You think like I do get her fixed and get her done !!.I only had one machine then and no money or time for down time .Digitup.

Mariner · Post by **Mariner** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 9:44 am

Hi,

I have just removed my brake band without taking the final drive off - just the cab area with hydraulic oil and fuel tanks. Then take off the steel covers over the clutch housing area.

Removing the brake band was surprisingly easy and can be done in a relatively short time once you figure out the way to go about it.

My clutch has not been working for some time and I am having difficulty seperating the track. Removing the the complete track is not an option for me at this time, to gain access to the clutch pack. I am hoping that getting the brake band repaired so that it works (bonded pad came loose - replacement will be rivetted) and grabs the rotating clutch pack will be enough to get the steering and clutch working again. If not, I guess I will have had a bit more eperience to build on for the future

Cheers

mariner

Paul45 · Post by **Paul45** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:05 am

I was told that you can remove track adjuster ( grease fitting ) and use a come-along to make track loose enough to get the track off. The guy i bought my JD350 said he did it that way using his backhoe to lift track up and off of the sprocket.
please let me know how you make out, GOOD LUCK thanks paul

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:44 am

deleted

Mariner · Post by **Mariner** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:54 pm

Hi,

Taking the brake band out is not very difficult if you have the top clutch housing covers off - the big ones with eight bolts, not the small inspection covers.

Unscrew the pipe plug at the side, just level with the track. This allows removal of the band securing pin - a 5/16"NC bolt will fit the center hole nicely. Take out the two adjusting bolts for the brake and clutch setting. Remove the adjusting pin (using 13/16" wrench) completely - it is about 5" long. I also removed the linkage that secures the foot brake to the actauting/tightning arm. The brake band is loose then and can be maneouvered around the clutch housing and taken out. To replace, one would need to fish a piece of wire around to guide te brake band bake into place. Otherwise a reverse procedure of dismantling. That is it - not too bad once you have done it.

For me, I am just repairing the brake band that lost a glued on pad some 18 months ago. I have tried the clutch arm with a cheater bar and it looks as though the clutch assemble may have rusted tight. It might be the reason that the brake pad seperated from the band in the first place - the clutch did work before the brake went. The new pads will be bonded and riveted on so I am told - hopefully that will stop pad seperation. I might be lucky and find I can use the clutch again - if not, then major surgery will be needed

at a later date.

My configuration has an outside frame that supports the front dozer blade. To do work on the final drive will require the blade and frame be removed so the side rail and track can be moved to allow the sprocket removal. Once in that situation, I think the rest would be pretty stright forward. However, at this time removing th finaldrive i not an option I want to do until the start of summer - we get lotsa snow here snd moing it is the job of the machine. Sure would be nice to have an access hole cut in the sprocket wheel at the right place - that would allow real easy clutch removal and replacement. A 2.5" or 3" diemeter hole drilled at the right place would make a long job (money earning) pretty easy and practical.

To just remove the brake band is quite easy - the other stuff is a lot more work.

mariner

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 9:00 am

He has a 450 crawler, only 2010 and 450 can have clutch work done with final drive installed. If you have 350 or older, you have to remove the final drive.
Lavoy

cinok · Post by **cinok** » Thu May 12, 2011 10:06 am

I was getting all excitied since I may have to do a band on my 450b

Then I read the last post by Lavoy

pburke · Post by **pburke** » Thu May 12, 2011 1:55 pm

Did The same On 450B without removing final. Did break track and remove sprocket. Replaced clutches. Used wire hanger to fish band around clutch pack

big-c · Post by **big-c** » Sat May 14, 2011 3:50 pm

im getting ready to replace brake and clutch pack on my 450b any pics or info appreciated

big-c · Post by **big-c** » Sun May 15, 2011 1:13 pm

did you have to remove the sprocket to replace clutch

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