Possible reason for thrown the same track
- panicbutton
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 11:12 am
- Location: Panhandle of Florida
Possible reason for thrown the same track
I keep throwing the left side track. Sometimes I can go all day without a problem, other it seems it's off every hour. WThew it again this weekend and noticed that the inside of the front idler was worn bad, also all the idler guides were worn down to less than 1/16 of an inch. I'm thinking this is the problem.
'74 350B LGP, 179ci Diesel
It sounds to me like the worn idler flanges are more of a symptom than a cause- they wear because the track is forced to tthe edge of the flanges.
Typical causes of this type of wear include excessive sidehill work, idler or trackframe misalignment, or lack of track tension. Sharp turns, especially on sidehills, increases chances for track to jump especially if the track is too loose. Do you maybe have a loose hydraulic adjuster on the left side?
I also believe I have read from other posts that the 350s can be subject to trackframe problems; I am sure others more knowledgeable about the 350s could weigh in on this.
However I don't want to speculate about your machine. I think the first step is for someone else to drive the crawler while you are watching from in front or behind to see if the track is miasligned or snaking when moving. That should tell you a lot about your particular situation.
This document, while not Deere specific, should be helpful for inspecting the undercarriage.
http://www.tpaktopc.net/files/undrcarguide.pdf
BTW, I am not a undercarriage expert but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express
Typical causes of this type of wear include excessive sidehill work, idler or trackframe misalignment, or lack of track tension. Sharp turns, especially on sidehills, increases chances for track to jump especially if the track is too loose. Do you maybe have a loose hydraulic adjuster on the left side?
I also believe I have read from other posts that the 350s can be subject to trackframe problems; I am sure others more knowledgeable about the 350s could weigh in on this.
However I don't want to speculate about your machine. I think the first step is for someone else to drive the crawler while you are watching from in front or behind to see if the track is miasligned or snaking when moving. That should tell you a lot about your particular situation.
This document, while not Deere specific, should be helpful for inspecting the undercarriage.
http://www.tpaktopc.net/files/undrcarguide.pdf
BTW, I am not a undercarriage expert but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
- panicbutton
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 11:12 am
- Location: Panhandle of Florida
There used to be, maybe still is, some shops that had roller/idler builders. They would build them up with a "work hardening" wire. As the crawler runs, the rails hammer the weld flat, as it is hammered flat, it hardens.
Not sure what it would or used to cost, but I would guess it would be as high or higher than new ones.
I have one quite new take-off Deere idler for a 350, and one new Berco on hand, or can get you new aftermarket as well.
lavoy
Not sure what it would or used to cost, but I would guess it would be as high or higher than new ones.
I have one quite new take-off Deere idler for a 350, and one new Berco on hand, or can get you new aftermarket as well.
lavoy
Thanks Lavoy - other questions
Thanks for the reply Lavoy. I may eventually have to buy some from you. Do you know what measurements I would take on the idler to see how badly worn they are? I don't know what new ones look like nor what the wear limits are. Come to think of it, I do have a shop manual, it should have something in it I would think. I talked to you a year ago about a new tranny shift lever. You said you might be able to come up with a used one. I haven't had a chance to work on the machine since then and I don't remember whether you said if I could just buy one and it would fit or if I should take the old one out before you can find me the correct replacement. Can you refresh my memory? And what would the cost be with shipping to Minnesota? Thanks.
I don't have anything on hand as far as shift levers, but used one should not be difficult. I might need to know serial number, but should be no reason to remove your old one first.
Depends on what part of MN you are from, I am only 4 miles from the border, so either way, should not be too bad.
Lavoy
Depends on what part of MN you are from, I am only 4 miles from the border, so either way, should not be too bad.
Lavoy
Lavoy, thanks for reply. If I give you the serial number what would be the procedure for getting a used one? What might it cost? Would you want payment first? I live near St. Cloud. I do get up ND way in the fall for some hunting. Perhaps I could arrange to pick it up, or will you ship? Does this site have ability to PM?
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