Possible reason for thrown the same track

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panicbutton
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Possible reason for thrown the same track

Post by panicbutton » Tue Jul 07, 2009 12:16 pm

I keep throwing the left side track. Sometimes I can go all day without a problem, other it seems it's off every hour. WThew it again this weekend and noticed that the inside of the front idler was worn bad, also all the idler guides were worn down to less than 1/16 of an inch. I'm thinking this is the problem.

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'74 350B LGP, 179ci Diesel

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Post by Tigerhaze » Tue Jul 07, 2009 12:51 pm

It sounds to me like the worn idler flanges are more of a symptom than a cause- they wear because the track is forced to tthe edge of the flanges.

Typical causes of this type of wear include excessive sidehill work, idler or trackframe misalignment, or lack of track tension. Sharp turns, especially on sidehills, increases chances for track to jump especially if the track is too loose. Do you maybe have a loose hydraulic adjuster on the left side?

I also believe I have read from other posts that the 350s can be subject to trackframe problems; I am sure others more knowledgeable about the 350s could weigh in on this.

However I don't want to speculate about your machine. I think the first step is for someone else to drive the crawler while you are watching from in front or behind to see if the track is miasligned or snaking when moving. That should tell you a lot about your particular situation.

This document, while not Deere specific, should be helpful for inspecting the undercarriage.

http://www.tpaktopc.net/files/undrcarguide.pdf

BTW, I am not a undercarriage expert but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express :lol:
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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Post by Lavoy » Tue Jul 07, 2009 1:17 pm

That is surely not helping the situation.
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Post by panicbutton » Tue Jul 07, 2009 1:24 pm

Are the idler guides heat treated or anything special? JD want $16 each (x8) for them. I've got 1/4" x 2" flat stock everywhere for the cost of one I can make 10 out of the stock.
'74 350B LGP, 179ci Diesel

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Post by Lavoy » Tue Jul 07, 2009 5:07 pm

Not sure which guides you mean, but I just put all of them in my 350, and they were all hardened at least to some degree.
If you need an idler, I have an OEM Deere take off in like new shape that came off of mine.
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Post by bdcz » Tue Jul 21, 2009 8:45 pm

Can the idlers be rebuilt on a 350? I'm told that it is common to rebuild with weld and machine to finish. I might need new idlers soon unless rebuild is cheaper.

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Post by Lavoy » Wed Jul 22, 2009 8:44 am

There used to be, maybe still is, some shops that had roller/idler builders. They would build them up with a "work hardening" wire. As the crawler runs, the rails hammer the weld flat, as it is hammered flat, it hardens.
Not sure what it would or used to cost, but I would guess it would be as high or higher than new ones.
I have one quite new take-off Deere idler for a 350, and one new Berco on hand, or can get you new aftermarket as well.
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Thanks Lavoy - other questions

Post by bdcz » Wed Jul 22, 2009 8:31 pm

Thanks for the reply Lavoy. I may eventually have to buy some from you. Do you know what measurements I would take on the idler to see how badly worn they are? I don't know what new ones look like nor what the wear limits are. Come to think of it, I do have a shop manual, it should have something in it I would think. I talked to you a year ago about a new tranny shift lever. You said you might be able to come up with a used one. I haven't had a chance to work on the machine since then and I don't remember whether you said if I could just buy one and it would fit or if I should take the old one out before you can find me the correct replacement. Can you refresh my memory? And what would the cost be with shipping to Minnesota? Thanks.

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Post by Lavoy » Thu Jul 23, 2009 10:11 am

I don't have anything on hand as far as shift levers, but used one should not be difficult. I might need to know serial number, but should be no reason to remove your old one first.
Depends on what part of MN you are from, I am only 4 miles from the border, so either way, should not be too bad.
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Post by bdcz » Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:16 pm

Lavoy, thanks for reply. If I give you the serial number what would be the procedure for getting a used one? What might it cost? Would you want payment first? I live near St. Cloud. I do get up ND way in the fall for some hunting. Perhaps I could arrange to pick it up, or will you ship? Does this site have ability to PM?

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Post by Lavoy » Thu Jul 30, 2009 9:17 am

Yes, shipping is no problem. Yes, probably should have serial number. Look in the lower LH corner of any post, and the poster's e-mail and PM are there.
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