JD 350C injector pump check valve ?

[Keith K]

Hello,all I am new to this forum.I have a JD 350C loader with a 4 in one bucket with 1900 original hours.I have owned it for about 7 years and put about 700 hours on it.It has always run like a top until last week as I was finishing up a project and she started to sputtter and blow black smoke and lose almost all power,then it cleaned up and ran well again.But then started smoking again and I barely got it back by the garage.I found some water in the filter even though it was clean.Then I learned something,I never knew there was a drain in the bottom of the fuel tank,the valve was frozen so I unscrewed the whole thing and nothing came out,it was clogged with black goo,I ran a wire up through it and about 2 cups of water and goo came out.when I got to the clean diesel I screwed the valve back in and changed the filter.Confident I had found the problem I opened the bleeder and pumped the filter full with the lever on the lift pump and tried to start.It started and instantly dies,so I cracked the injector nuts and bled the lines and after a 100 times still the same thing.I then blew out the return lines and still the same thing.I removed the timing cover and drained the pump,saw some tiny bits of black rubber.put the cover back on and she starts right up and runs for about 2 min and dies,I do this again and realize when the pump fills up it is not returning then I remove the return line on the pump cover and it still stalls,removed the check valve and she runs great as long as it can spit out diesel.Do I need the the check valve?Is its purpose to keep pressure in the pump for better starting?It starts right up with the pump empty so I wonder.I do not have the manual and I don't care to pull the pump myself,I don't use the machine much anymore and do not care to put much money in it right now.Can I run it with no check valve and not damage anything?The pump is a stanadyne BD-2 4464 sorry for the long post.

[KenP]

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[Ohiohillbilly]

You can take the checkvalve out and it will run OK. It is my understanding is that it is to keep stuff from draining back into your pump and causing problems. Since you already have pump problems you really have nothing to lose. We took our check valve out a couple weeks ago for the same reason. This winter I'll pull the pump and get it rebuilt. For now I need it to run for a half hour or so everyday to clean up the jobsite.

[Keith K]

Well,it looks like the check valve is coming out and the loader going back to work.Can someone point me to a place to get the shop manual for this machine.I have found a few for $300 but that seems steep for a 30 year old machine.Thanks to all who replied.

[KenP]

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[Larry 8N75381]

I had the same problem with my JD 350 loader. You do not need to "rebuild" your pump but just replace the governor weight retainer and it's drive plate. It is not unlike having a tractor that won't pull because the clutch is bad. You would not rebuild the engine when all that needs rebuild/replaced is the clutch.

I have the part number for what you need but can't lay my hands on it right now. I also have a bunch of pictures that I took when I did my pump that I need to post. The hardest thing you have to do is get the pump off the tractor - what with the lower nut holding the pump on is REALLY hard to get to. I managed to get mine off with a crowsfoot but I decided to "modify" a new craftsman for the job - it looks like C now not an I, but it worked.

Several quick things. BEFORE you take the pump off take a scribe and mark the pump flange and tractor with a clean SHARP line so you can line the pump back exactly where it came off. Stuff a plastic bag or two filled with paper/other bags/cloth down between the frame and engine - you WILL drop something and it is nice NOT to have to drop the bottom pan to get to it. As soon as the pump comes off - confirm that the "dimples" in the pump and on the end of the drive shaft line up. They should! But it would have made me feed better about the alignment if I have checked as I took the pump off. When you get the manual, DO NOT follow it for disassembly of the pump BECAUSE they assume you are doing it in a pump shop and can test it after it is back together. So they start with you opening up the actual pump section - furthest end from engine. You do NOT want to open up this up at all! Rather you want to get at the end nearest the engine where the governor is located. The pump end has some high tolerance highly finished parts that don't need dirt in them. Which reminds me, waste some fuel and wash the out side of the pump off well before you start. You will need a bristol wrench - looks like a flutted allen. I will give you a source to get one - when I find it.

More later,

[Keith K]

Well everyone just an update on my injector pump woes.I went to my local john deere dealer where my machine was bought new{they still had the records} and talked to a fellow named roy who runs the shop there.He also told me not to run the machine like it was and proceded to show me around the injector pump parts pile.I asked him about redoing the pump myself and he showed me the tools I would need and then offered to redo the pump for a price less than the tools would have cost me.So I pulled the pump off in 20 min and took it to him on wensday and he called today friday to pick it up.Turns out he has a 350b dozer and I told him about this web site .Thanks to all who offered there advice and good tips for removing the pump,By the way I found my 1/2" combination ratchet wrench worked great on the bottom bolt as I had it off in a flash.If anyone near newton N.J. ever needs help with deere parts they are good people there at G&H.Tomorrow I will reinstall the pump with my fingers crossed