Jd 350c track install

[mc_mike]

Thought I would ask before I try this. I have a new track chain that I haven't put the pads on yet, and I was thinking of installing the master pin in the chain prior to putting the pads on, and also trying to install the chain on the crawler. Then install the pads. Anyone try this? I don't have a master pin press but have a 55 ton hyd press I can use to put the master in prior to putting the chain on the crawler. Thoughts?

[KenP]

deleted

[JWB Contracting]

We have never tried installing the master pin first and then putting the track chain on. This could be very difficult, even more if you have rock guards.

We put the bare chain on the tractor first, put your end pieces on the sprocket with comealongs in each direction. Then cut a piece of pipe that fits snugly between the track chain and final drive (internal diameter larger than the master pin). This serves as a backup from sledge hammering the pin in. My dad is now 64 years old and is getting tired of the tight pins, he is now grinding them slightly so that they go in easier. He then welds the master pin in place. We have not had issues with welding the master pin in. We do this on 350C widepad loaders equiped with hoe attachments. I think this is the most severe use that a 350 could be put thru so i don't think you would have a problem using this method.

We also always install the tracks pads last. Much easier than trying to manipulte the track chain unless you have a track bench.

Good luck.

[digitup2]

This is where a track installation tool is nice I have one and it is the same tool as they use to tighten tire chains on a log skidder (The army use them for tank tracks ) they are handy .I have never ground down a main pin for new tracks and I would not I also would not weld a main pin in place on new tracks .most of the track staying on is from a tight tolerances in the pin hole it's self ,The lock pin or ring is just there to look good and as a back up don't weld a new track and pin It's ok when they are older but not new .Put a slight taper on 1/2-3/4 of an inch of the pin maybe but keep that tight fit for a reason .It really helps to have the two track ends square to each other and a good pin driver .Pin drivers are cheep and easy to weld up .Buy 60 inches of 1 inch hard rolled steel .Then cut this at the 1 foot mark now measure 9 inches on the short piece ,Then butt weld the long piece on the side of the short one at the 9 inch mark .Weld this up as a kind of off set T shape and weld it strong!Now put a rubber handle on the long end and you have a pin driver never lend this out as they never get returned I keep extras in my shop just to sell for 40 bucks that is the only way you can borrow one from me and I have sold 30 of them .Any one with tracks gets one and finds other jobs it can do as well .Digitup.

[Builder2]

New to site. I was wondering an approximate cost to install pins and bushings on a 350D dozer. This may not be the correct place to post.

I am looking at a 350D that will probably need them. Also any idea as to a used price on a machine with less than 1000 hours?

Thanks,

Paul

[roadbuilder]

Do you guys agree with the practice of removing the paint from the contact surface of the rails and also new pads? Its annoying to have to take off new pads and redo this. We usually do our own rail work, but once we had the job done by a shop. Pads started coming loose within a week. They didn't take off the paint.

[Lavoy]

On occasion, I have had some rails that were obviously newer than the crawler. In removing the pads, there was paint or primer underneath the pad. If the pads are coming loose, I would say it was a torquing error on the part of the installer, not paint being there.
Lavoy

[Dean Wise]

There are a lot of ways to replace the rails , but putting the master pin in before installing is not the most desirable way.
I am not saying it can not be done, but you will need lots of room , and some good luck, along with some heavy lifting equipment.
I just rebuilt my 1981 350-c, and got the new rails from Value Part , Zanesville , Ohio.
I also replaced rollers, sprockets,Idlers, top rolers, and repaired both crawler frames.
The easiest way to do this job is have your machine blocked up with old rails removed. unroll new rails behind the machine in direct line with the sprocket, and crawler frame, with the holes in the new rails facing the correct direction so that when the pads are bolted on will they will be facing the correct direction.
Place a "block", or pulley on the blade in line with the crawler frame, sprocket,and new rails. run a rope through the pulley, under the crawler frame, and sprocket, and tie onto the new rails.
attach other end of the rope to tractor, pickup truck, tow motor, or any other pulling equipment you have available.
Pull on the rope draging the new rails under the machine just past the front Idler allowing enough room to start the return trip on the top side.
Now take the rope out of the pulley, and run it over the front idler, top roler, and the top of the sprocket.
Again pick your favorite pulling equipment, and pull the rails to the rear , over the front idler, top roler and over the sprocket to the lower 1/3 of the rear of the sprocket.
You should be able to block up the lower rail with some wood blocks into the sprocket.
Place a short piece of 1" round stock through the rails behind the hole for the master pin. Attach a comealong or block and tackle to this end.
On the top side do the same, pulling both ends together.
Make sure all paint and protective coatings have been cleaned out of the pin holes in each end. The cleaner the easier the pin will go in.
Apply a coating of never seiz to the pin holes in the rails, install spring washers, and align both ends with a pin smaller than the master pin. this will help hold things in place before driving the pin in place.
Clean the pin with solvent, and some # 220 emery cloth to ensure all burrs, and antirust compounds are gone.
I used a ball joint press from a friend to install my pins, but if you drive them in place the pin in a zip lock bag with a few ounces of atf , or hydraulic oil to coat the pin, and place it in your freezer or dry ice . this will shrink the pin ensuring a tight fit.
I can not stress enough the cleaning of the holes, and the pin for ease of assembly.
The whole process if you work as slow as I do , and by yourself can be done in a couple hours, minus 8 or so hours for pin shrinking.
Bolting the pads on is another story.
Using a 4" grinder with a sanding wheel, clean both the rails where the pads bolt on, and the bottom of the pads. this is a little time consuming , but you will be glad you did.
There again the cleaner the better
When you are done with all of the work use some spray paint to mark the master link. I used a flourscent orange. this will make it easy to locate the master link, and also you can keep an eye on your pin to make sure it stays put.
Good luck .
I hope this helps you out. I am sure your back will appreciate the advice.
Mine Did