STILL having injector pump problems 450C

[Flatheadyoungin]

I'm still having problems with getting diesel fuel in to the crankcase. Here's a timeline of what I have done/tried:

1. put new fuel pump on

2. still got fuel in crank case, pulled injector pump, put in new bushing and installed umbrella seals, when i put bronze bushing in, it went in VERY tight

3. i still got diesel in the crankcase, so i pulled the IJ pump, i had torn an umbrella seal when installing it......so i put new ones in again...they are right as far as i know, i've had it off and on many times now and kind of have it down pat

4. still got fuel in the crankcase, saw the mouse turds in my timing cover window.....pulled IJ pump again, replaced govenor weight retaining ring and all new orings, everything from the soft kit.....the bypass check valve was plugged up badly so this explained why it would start then die immediately and it also explain why the thing ran fine when i pulled the timing cover off and let it run while spewing fuel out (it relieved the pressure built up in the housing)

5. still getting fuel in the crankcase, i could see it escaping from the timing cover while running it the other day, more than just a drip drip

Possibilities??

a. i have the JDB manual and it suggested using epoxy to glue the bronze bushing in to place. it went in so tight that i didn't think there was anyway it would need to be glued and i didn't want to make it MORE difficult to remove it again if need be........however, when i had it all a part to replace the govenor retaining ring, i noticed the bearing had moved slightly outward towards the engine side.....i put it in a vise and gave it a good hit (thinking it would be just as hard to drive in as last time) and it went flush with the flange....i had to take the injector pump back apart to move the busing back where it's supposed to be....it moved quitely easily.....should i glue it in place? what "epoxy" should i use?


b. i cleaned everything really well, but from the checkvalve to the engine block, i didn't clean out that line.......i'm gonna guess that the return/bypass line is clogged forcing fuel out the timing cover (even with a new seal), past the umbrella seals and/or past the bronze bushing that isn't glued?

what do you think? i need to work this thing! i've got to admit, i love this ole' thing and it sure makes quick work of briars and such on the property....and i've sure learned a HECK of a lot about this machine.....i'm just ready to wrap up this part of trouble.....

[KenP]

deleted

[Flatheadyoungin]

Yeah, after I exhaust all of my options, this will be the next step.


I just know that the return line is clogged. But, I'm not sure I should just be blowing air through the line. I saw where the line goes up in to the head, near the injectors. I never really saw a line that actually returns to the fuel tank. I don't want to blow crud in to the engine, etc.

Before I send it off, I'll glue the bushing and blow out the bypass line.

It seems like every time I've paid a "professional" to do something, I wind up dissapointed because they didn't fix it either and charged me a whole bunch to do so. I'd rather send it off and have it done right, pay the money (whatever it is), stick it on and run it all summer. I just see sending it off, paying big bucks, putting it back on and having the same problem. So I'll try what I can before using the last resort.

[Flatheadyoungin]

Oh, and to be honest, I don't know of anyone around here that works on these things. I'd have to mail it off- which isn't a big deal either.

I'll try to run down ole' JDEMarris on one of the boards and see what he says.

[Tigerhaze]

I'll try to run down ole' JDEMarris on one of the boards and see what he says.

That was my thought- you may try the YT message board as he was there quite a bit.

[Lavoy]

Return line can not be plugged, that will produce pressure in the housing, so be sure to check that. If you decide to go with a different pump, I have rebuilt available.
Lavoy

[Flatheadyoungin]

Hey, fellas, I really do appreciate the help. I don't like to quit from a challenge- even though, sometimes, it's necessary.

If I blow air through the return line, will it blow mouse turds in places I don't want them? If I follow the line up from the checkvalve, it goes to four little spark plug boot looking things....up near the injectors themselves. Shouldn't there be a line after them that goes on back to the tank?

I don't have my manual in front of me and the dozer is out to the property, so I can't just look at it real quickly. So my memory may not be right.

Lavoy, I may take you up on that if I can prove that the return line is clear. Could you tell me how much you get out of a rebuilt pump? With/without a core?

[Lavoy]

Take the return line off at the tank, then when you blow through it, you can't blow the crud into anything.
I would have to know pump number to check for sure, but I think about $750-$800/exchange for rebuilt pump.
Lavoy