hydraulic pump disconnect
hydraulic pump disconnect
I'm brand new to crawlers and this is my first post. I've been scouring the posts on this site since I decided to get a 350 crawler loader with a 93 (A?) backhoe. It,s a 1968 serial #T4E3D 0762971. I can see that there's any amount that I have to learn. to start, I was interested in a thread that dealt with cold weather starting and gave great advice on installing a tank heater in the coolant circuit ,but was surprised after reading through the operators manual that JD recommended disconnecting the hydraulic pump by means of a lever on the right side of the engine but nobody mentioned it. It seemed like unloading the engine for a cold start would have been a good idea. When I tried operating the lever, it would move about 30 degrees from the 10 oclock postion to the 11oclock position, but didn't disconnect the hydraulics. Any ideas? Thanks for any help. If I can figure out how to post a picture, I'll give that a try.
Making sure your electrical connection are clean and tight is a very good start. You might also try a dip stick heater or clamp on oil pan heater. Keeping the oil warm in cold conditions can improve engine starting and reduce wear and tear.
My two cents worth.
My two cents worth.
1966? JD350 crawler dozer SNT4F3D023872T
1967 Kaiser Jeep 5ton dump truck
1966 Cessna 150F
1965 Cessna 150E
1967 Kaiser Jeep 5ton dump truck
1966 Cessna 150F
1965 Cessna 150E
hydraulic pump disconnect
Ken,
my GPS says I'm within yards of the 45th parallel but much closer to the water, I imagine. checked out your plow and it looks quite a bit like the rig I have on my long 610. mines an old 9' fisher but i never thought of putting a valve between the hoses, I just connect the male and female quick connectors when I want to change the angle and yard it around to where I want it and disconnect again. what's the scoop on "ice bolts"?
Are they welded on or bolted through the mud relief holes? I know i'll need some added traction. Maybe i should have posted this with your picture thread? I'll get the hang of this eventually. thanks again.
my GPS says I'm within yards of the 45th parallel but much closer to the water, I imagine. checked out your plow and it looks quite a bit like the rig I have on my long 610. mines an old 9' fisher but i never thought of putting a valve between the hoses, I just connect the male and female quick connectors when I want to change the angle and yard it around to where I want it and disconnect again. what's the scoop on "ice bolts"?
Are they welded on or bolted through the mud relief holes? I know i'll need some added traction. Maybe i should have posted this with your picture thread? I'll get the hang of this eventually. thanks again.
- Smokey450C
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2010 2:03 pm
- Location: Ravenna, Oh
Bolt tracks! Nice!
Hey Ken,
I like the bolts through the track idea, welding some grip on the heads of the bolts - also a good idea. I like it - simple yet effective. You grouser pads appear to be in great shape, did you replace them recently?
I like the bolts through the track idea, welding some grip on the heads of the bolts - also a good idea. I like it - simple yet effective. You grouser pads appear to be in great shape, did you replace them recently?
Smokey
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2904
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
I have ice caulks on my 420c, or half a set of them anyway. Those were pad bolts with long conical heads made from tool steel they sold specifically for use on ice.
Dad got half of a set way back when, so both sets of tracks sport one ice caulk for each pad. Half a loaf was better than none. The old place in NY was on a small mountain and we had one heck of a steep (30 degrees) driveway to plow and those caulks really did work on ice.
Later!
Stan
I have ice caulks on my 420c, or half a set of them anyway. Those were pad bolts with long conical heads made from tool steel they sold specifically for use on ice.
Dad got half of a set way back when, so both sets of tracks sport one ice caulk for each pad. Half a loaf was better than none. The old place in NY was on a small mountain and we had one heck of a steep (30 degrees) driveway to plow and those caulks really did work on ice.
Later!
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
- Smokey450C
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2010 2:03 pm
- Location: Ravenna, Oh
Ice bolts/tracks
Hey Ken,
I'm to the point where I'll need to replace the chains and pads on my 450C loader soon. The chain links are showing some irregular wear, not round any more. The track adjusters are about to the end of their reach. Did you need to replace your drive sprockets or front idlers as well? My sprockets are well worn and one idler actually has a 4" chunk missing off of one side. I can hear occationally when the chain clunks, like the sprocket is trying to crawl out of the chain, especially when I do a long turn, so I guess it's due.
I'm to the point where I'll need to replace the chains and pads on my 450C loader soon. The chain links are showing some irregular wear, not round any more. The track adjusters are about to the end of their reach. Did you need to replace your drive sprockets or front idlers as well? My sprockets are well worn and one idler actually has a 4" chunk missing off of one side. I can hear occationally when the chain clunks, like the sprocket is trying to crawl out of the chain, especially when I do a long turn, so I guess it's due.
Smokey
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