hydraulic pump disconnect

bobw · Post by **bobw** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:19 am

I'm brand new to crawlers and this is my first post. I've been scouring the posts on this site since I decided to get a 350 crawler loader with a 93 (A?) backhoe. It,s a 1968 serial #T4E3D 0762971. I can see that there's any amount that I have to learn. to start, I was interested in a thread that dealt with cold weather starting and gave great advice on installing a tank heater in the coolant circuit ,but was surprised after reading through the operators manual that JD recommended disconnecting the hydraulic pump by means of a lever on the right side of the engine but nobody mentioned it. It seemed like unloading the engine for a cold start would have been a good idea. When I tried operating the lever, it would move about 30 degrees from the 10 oclock postion to the 11oclock position, but didn't disconnect the hydraulics. Any ideas? Thanks for any help. If I can figure out how to post a picture, I'll give that a try.

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:46 am

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digitup2 · Post by **digitup2** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 5:08 pm

they gave up on the pump disconnect several years after they discovered they didn't need it .An other Deere over engineering job.Don't disconnect because you may not get it to reconnect nice .Digitup.

DaveP · Post by **DaveP** » Sun Oct 24, 2010 8:20 pm

Making sure your electrical connection are clean and tight is a very good start. You might also try a dip stick heater or clamp on oil pan heater. Keeping the oil warm in cold conditions can improve engine starting and reduce wear and tear.

My two cents worth.

bobw · Post by **bobw** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 4:05 am

thanks for the responses. I should have realized after trying to operate the lever with the loader bucket on the ground where it would most likely be when you wanted to start the machine, that it wasn't a stroke of genius. Clean electrical connections and a block heater, got it.
thanks again.

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 5:10 am

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bobw · Post by **bobw** » Mon Oct 25, 2010 7:18 pm

Ken,
my GPS says I'm within yards of the 45th parallel but much closer to the water, I imagine. checked out your plow and it looks quite a bit like the rig I have on my long 610. mines an old 9' fisher but i never thought of putting a valve between the hoses, I just connect the male and female quick connectors when I want to change the angle and yard it around to where I want it and disconnect again. what's the scoop on "ice bolts"?
Are they welded on or bolted through the mud relief holes? I know i'll need some added traction. Maybe i should have posted this with your picture thread? I'll get the hang of this eventually. thanks again.

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Tue Oct 26, 2010 7:11 am

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Smokey450C · Post by **Smokey450C** » Tue Nov 02, 2010 1:04 pm

Hey Ken,

I like the bolts through the track idea, welding some grip on the heads of the bolts - also a good idea. I like it - simple yet effective. You grouser pads appear to be in great shape, did you replace them recently?

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Tue Nov 02, 2010 1:47 pm

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Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Tue Nov 02, 2010 4:25 pm

Hi,

I have ice caulks on my 420c, or half a set of them anyway. Those were pad bolts with long conical heads made from tool steel they sold specifically for use on ice.

Dad got half of a set way back when, so both sets of tracks sport one ice caulk for each pad. Half a loaf was better than none. The old place in NY was on a small mountain and we had one heck of a steep (30 degrees) driveway to plow and those caulks really did work on ice.

Later!

Stan

Smokey450C · Post by **Smokey450C** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 12:19 pm

Hey Ken,

I'm to the point where I'll need to replace the chains and pads on my 450C loader soon. The chain links are showing some irregular wear, not round any more. The track adjusters are about to the end of their reach. Did you need to replace your drive sprockets or front idlers as well? My sprockets are well worn and one idler actually has a 4" chunk missing off of one side. I can hear occationally when the chain clunks, like the sprocket is trying to crawl out of the chain, especially when I do a long turn, so I guess it's due.

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 1:37 pm

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