Hi. New John Deere 350 B owner

[jcody]

I recently bought this 350 B loader, as well as a reprint operators manual for the older 350. I've adjusted the tracks to an inch of slack, changed engine oil, checked all the fluids, grased the loader - but not the tracks. According to the manual, the tracks are only supposed to be greased every 500 hours, so I don't know whether I should or not... I pulled the plug on the idler and could see grease on the back of it, so I'm guessing they may be okay...

Other than the winch, eeryhing seems to work okay. I'm guessing that the injector pump has been replaced since it is a different shade/more faded shade of yellow than the rest of the engine. The only thing of major concern is that it whines a decent amount in reverse. The reverser works fine, and the crawler moves fine in reverse, it's just that it whines. It also might just slightly turn to the right a little quicker/easier than to the left - but it's very minor if it's not just my imagination. It also idles at about 1400 rpm, and i would like to solw that down. Would that be adjusted at the pump?

The only other thing is the winch. From what I've read on here, I guess the 350 B's don't have a pto lever? It would make sense because I can't find one. And also, the forward/reverse lever had to be in the forward position to make the winch operate? does the winch lever put the pto in gear? I guess I'll check all this.

I just recently graduated college and was wanting to do some brush clearing, as well as hauling out the dead and fallen trees out of the woods at my house. I was told that the crawler was in overall good condition; however, I don't know a lot about dozers, and I'm curious about how to determine track or undercariage wear/life.

Any info/opinions on track lubrication, the reverser whining, throttle adjustment, einch operaton, or track life, as well as any other general advice would be appreciated. Thanks

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[vestor_guy]

The manual should tell you how to adjuct the idle. As far as the track wear, look at how far forward the front idlers are where they rest on the track rails. New traks have about 5 inches not counting the rock guards if installed. If they are close to the front, you would be close to being out of adjustment with the adjustor. Follow the manual for track adjustment. Not too tight and not loose. They will give you a slack measured in inches.

You can also look at the wear on the front idlers. If there has been a lot of slope work or the idlers are not shimmed correctly, one ridge will be thicker than the other.

The tracks may have the newer style rollers and idlers that use 30 wt oil instead of grease. If it is oil, they have two plugs, one fill and one bleed. Use a low pressue gun from JD with 30 wt oil lest you blow a seal. The older ones with grease use a special slide fitting to grease them, also with a low pressure gun. With a loader, it is common to have the front rollers fail first.

You can take a light and look at the pins and bushings on the upper side of the track. If there is wear only on one side, they have not been rotated which would gain more track life. The rear sprokets should not have knife points at the tips but should be rounded. If they are sharp, it indicates lots of wear. You usually only get about 3000 hours on a set of tracks for common use. In sandy conditions, less, good dirt, more.

good luck with your trackor, you will have fun with it.

[KenP]

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[jcody]

Thanks Vestor and Ken for the replies.

Form what Vector stated about track wear, mine seem to be good - i'm guessing... I'm assuming the tach has been replaced, since it only shows 570 hours. Anyway, I posted pictures so you might get an idea for yourself. Where do I need to measure where the front idlers rest on the rails? I also adjusted the tracks to 1" of slack. The manual said between 7/8 and 1-1/8. They had about two before I adjusted them. but, both sides were the same.

All the fluids were full and very clean. The only service records I have is that the hours were wrote on the engine oil filter when they changed it - 35 hours ago - evidently... I may do as suggested and go ahead and change all the filters, though. Also, I'd like to get the right manual for it, too. I thought I was when I bought it (just thinking a 350 is a 350) then I realized there were several differences. Ebay seems to be full of regualr 350 manuals, but I haven't seen any for the B's yet.

[KenP]

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[gerald]

Very nice looking 350 B. It's the first one I seen up close, It look just like my 1970 350 dry clutch that I just rebuild booth steering clutches, pinion an bearings. The 350 B wet clutch has different finials.

[Tigerhaze]

Hi JCody-

If you want the specifications for rail height wear and pin/bushing wear, you can find them in the links within this thread:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=1214

[KenP]

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[Lavoy]

Tracks look a little tight, very nice undecarriage.
Lavoy

[gerald]

Kemp I haven't seen the inside of the 350b Finals but it looks just like the D 10 an D 11 cat dozers on them the finals are wet clutch conbined with tranismission shaft . I'm thinking the 350B is similar with out the sun gear an planertary.

[Lavoy]

Wet clutches came out on the C model, straight and B series crawlers are dry clutch machines.
Lavoy

[CatD8RII]

Very nice U/C, one really quick way to get an idea of pin/bushing wear is to look how far out the idlers are on the track frame. As you adjust your tracks to compensate for wear the idler "slides" out. However, if someone has "cut a link out", so to speak, that way isnt accurate . I think there are 36 links per side on 350s. I do also beleive the single grouser pads were intended for dozers only. The loaders should have triple grousers. One other thing to note on your machine is that the left side front idler is missing a grease fitting. It should have one like your right side idler or the carrier rollers.

[DavTom]

The only other thing is the winch. From what I've read on here, I guess the 350 B's don't have a pto lever? It would make sense because I can't find one. And also, the forward/reverse lever had to be in the forward position to make the winch operate? does the winch lever put the pto in gear? I guess I'll check all this.

The forward/reverse lever puts the pto in gear and must be in forward for the winch to operate, the winch lever puts the winch in gear... On my 350 the winch lever forward makes the winch pull in.. The back position lets the winch freewheel for pulling the cable out... The center position locks the brake on the winch drum...
I assume they all would work this way...

[vestor_guy]

The tracks look to have low hours. There has probably not been any link removed b ecause the teeth on the rear sproket are not sharp poingted.

It does look like the front idler wear plates are missing on both sides. They should be welded in place on top of the rails.

1 ........ STRIP 2 (SUB (2) T126064) (SUB FOR AT18850 AND AT133230) (PER TRACK)

As someone mentioned, the front crossbar might be worn some. There are bushings between the bolts and the crossbar. It you see a lot of movement, you might look at new bushings.

The track plates are for a dozer and not a loader.

[CatD8RII]

I agree his tracks seem to have low hours. However, often times when links are removed sprokets are changed with them. The pins and bushings are obviously shot at that point, and most of the time so are the sprokets. So people throw new srpokets on and since there isnt any more adjustment they shorten the track by removing a link. I hate the idea of doing it (new sprokets and old bushings dont mix) but sometimes people just dont want to spend money on new tracks. The easiest way to tell if its been done is to count the links or pads. His machine has 36 , so no one has cut anything out yet. I could be wrong but i thought 350s only had the lower wear strip and the 450s and 550 had upper and lower strip. It makes sense to add it onto the 350s but i didnt think it came from Deere with them.