fanbelt

pburke · Post by **pburke** » Sun May 08, 2011 7:52 pm

Haven't been on here in a while. Have 450B and needing to replace fanbelt. Have had machine a couple of years now and have done alot to it. As some may recall front got little bit hot so rebuilt everything from front cover forward. Easy to put belt on then. What is easiest way now without taking half front end apart.

Thanks

cinok · Post by **cinok** » Sun May 08, 2011 10:43 pm

If you have a hyd disconnect between the crank and pump its just a PITA. Just did mine Didnt have to remove anything major.

tjdub · Post by **tjdub** » Mon May 09, 2011 11:17 am

pburke wrote:Haven't been on here in a while. Have 450B and needing to replace fanbelt. Have had machine a couple of years now and have done alot to it. As some may recall front got little bit hot so rebuilt everything from front cover forward. Easy to put belt on then. What is easiest way now without taking half front end apart. Thanks

I just put a PowerTwist belt on my 450.

$25 + $2.50 shipping for 5ft. It only took a few minutes to install. I had to re-tension it after about 1hr of use, but now it seems to be staying tight.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... MEWNX%3AIT

srs_mn · Post by **srs_mn** » Mon May 09, 2011 5:21 pm

no help now, but for later:
Get an extra belt or two... slip the spare(s) over the pump driveshaft, when you put your new one on, and zip tie it off to the side out of the way... makes it easy to fix a broken or damaged belt out in the field if you need it without taking anything apart.

pburke · Post by **pburke** » Mon May 16, 2011 8:24 pm

Dozer has hydraulic disconnect and yoke slides easily but cannot figure how or where to separate to get belt out. Worked at it for couple hours this evening. Can someone e-mail step by step. Definitely tying extra one in there. Thanks all

Farmboy · Post by **Farmboy** » Wed May 18, 2011 5:43 am

The Power Twist looks interesting.
Is it reliable?
Downside?

cinok · Post by **cinok** » Wed May 18, 2011 3:37 pm

pburke wrote:Dozer has hydraulic disconnect and yoke slides easily but cannot figure how or where to separate to get belt out. Worked at it for couple hours this evening. Can someone e-mail step by step. Definitely tying extra one in there. Thanks all

When you move the disconect lever it moves a yoke that is attached to coupler that runs up tight to the lower crank pulley. Now keep in mind that many of those couplers have not been disenganged in years. It slides on a splined shaft. The first time I disenganged mine i used a bit to much force ( I had my nose off and used a cheater pipe.) and broke the rusted roll pin that locks the lever to the shaft. It is very hard to see anything down there.
Here is link in the JD part manula that shows it http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com. ... ervlet_Alt

jtilsond · Post by **jtilsond** » Thu May 19, 2011 6:47 am

you may be sliding it on the splined shaft but if it still doesn't open wide enough to get the belt through, the shaft may still be dirtly and not allowing it to slide all the way.

And by the way, sometimes these couplers wear and are really out of alignment with the shaft so what you must do is turn the engine forward or back to take a little pressure off the coupler and get it more lined with the splines on the shaft, then it will slide back. But since yours already moves part way, that is not the problem.

I always end up taking off the nose anyway,,,a half hour and plenty of room then!

tjdub · Post by **tjdub** » Thu May 19, 2011 12:10 pm

The only way I can see that you could slip a belt past the disconnect would be to move the lever forward which moves #5 forward along #4. THEN pry #4 forward out of the bushing (#2). I'm guessing that that's why there's a spring (#17) holding #4 against the engine. Anyway, even though the disconnect functions on mine, I could not budge #4 forward which I assume is because the splines mating #4 to #16 are gummed up, worn, and/or rusted.

jtilsond · Post by **jtilsond** » Fri May 20, 2011 7:32 am

5 does slide along 4 forward as you say, but it slides alway past the end of 4 then the belt goes between the end of 4 and5. When you slide it back into position the teeth on 5 mesh with teeth on that disk you see behind the bushing. If it isnt moving far enough it is because the shaft is too dirty to allow the final distance movement.

Mariner · Post by **Mariner** » Fri May 20, 2011 7:47 am

For years I have been using link belts where access is hard. I have had no problems to date with one failing - that being said, there is always a first time

The link belts come in different configurations - easily adjusted by adding or removing links. If a link fails, just replace it with a couple more. They come in a variety of materials - leather, rubber type compound, synthetic etc.

A little more expensive that your ordinary Vee belt - but the many isin the installing - much quicker and easier.

Thx

mariner

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