Made from schedule 40 2.5" pipe
450C Pivot Pin Bushing
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vestor_guy
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:48 am
bushing
That is an interesting bit of machine work. Can you describe the process?
I had a huge amount of blade slop.
You can see how the top of the pivot pin was badly worn.
Interestingly, the hole in the back of the blade wasn't worn nearly as much.
(Must be harder metal)
We noticed that the hole was about 2.7" and the pin was about 2.5".
2.5" Schedule 40 steel pipe has an ID of about 2.5 and an OD of about 2.75".
Just turned the pipe down to 2.7" x 2.25" (The pin length is 2.00" but there is room for extra length in the hole in the blade).
Still have to put some weld bead on the top side of the worn pin and then grind back before putting the busing over the pin.
Also going to drill a couple holes in the bushing so we can do a slug weld and will also weld around the inside of the bushing at the end of the pin.
Should give a nice fit that I hope will last a while.
Bill
You can see how the top of the pivot pin was badly worn.
Interestingly, the hole in the back of the blade wasn't worn nearly as much.
(Must be harder metal)
We noticed that the hole was about 2.7" and the pin was about 2.5".
2.5" Schedule 40 steel pipe has an ID of about 2.5 and an OD of about 2.75".
Just turned the pipe down to 2.7" x 2.25" (The pin length is 2.00" but there is room for extra length in the hole in the blade).
Still have to put some weld bead on the top side of the worn pin and then grind back before putting the busing over the pin.
Also going to drill a couple holes in the bushing so we can do a slug weld and will also weld around the inside of the bushing at the end of the pin.
Should give a nice fit that I hope will last a while.
Bill
450C
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vestor_guy
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:48 am
Bushing
When you see that much wear on the pivot pin, there will also be a lot of wear on the back of the blade where the pivot arm slides up and down. On the first 450 I owned, I built up the worn areas on the back of the blade and ground them flat again. It helped take most of the slop out of the blade.
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vestor_guy
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:48 am
Pivot pin
The function of the pin you are bushing is to just provide a point of rotation for the blade. It cannot be used to take "slop" out of the bade system without overstressing the pin.
To remove the "slop" in the blade you need to rework the clearance between the ends of the pivot assembly and the blade. Originally, there were shims you could remove but you are probably well past that point and the shims have been removed.
If you remove the two "partial arc" pieces from the blade (you have obviously already removed them) you can see the differences in wear on the back of the blade from the upper arc to the lower arc. I just built the worn area back up with a soft fill rod and ground it back level and smooth. That will take the "slop" out of the blade without bushing the pin.
To remove the "slop" in the blade you need to rework the clearance between the ends of the pivot assembly and the blade. Originally, there were shims you could remove but you are probably well past that point and the shims have been removed.
If you remove the two "partial arc" pieces from the blade (you have obviously already removed them) you can see the differences in wear on the back of the blade from the upper arc to the lower arc. I just built the worn area back up with a soft fill rod and ground it back level and smooth. That will take the "slop" out of the blade without bushing the pin.
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vestor_guy
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:48 am
blade pivot
The blade plates will also have wear. If you build those up flat, you will need the shims. If it is too small a clearance, the cylinder will not be able to tilt the blade while digging.
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