JD 350 steering clutch disks order

rodger · Post by **rodger** » Sun May 29, 2011 2:25 am

wow 24 hours later and sprockets on but still not finished seals were leaking so ended up stripping them down and installing new seals, luckily I had accidentally bought them. So now 2 rollers need repairing and then hopefully I get to drive the machine and turn and stop etc. I am truly amazed at the poor workmanship of the previous mechanic, there were parts missing and just generally sloppy work all over the place. So much for famous just needs break band words.

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Sun May 29, 2011 4:11 am

deleted

rodger · Post by **rodger** » Sun May 29, 2011 12:33 pm

my thinking exactly, do the job correctly the first time and do regular maintenance and then never have break downs. A tightened screw can save thousands of $ if tightened in time, or cost thousands of $ if left to fall out and cause a breakage.
The only issue is all this time when cattle are due to arrive, nerve racking.

lp14255 · Post by **lp14255** » Tue May 31, 2011 11:33 am

im still confused, fiber disc , snap ring , fiber disc , steel disc , fiber disc, steel disc, fiber disc and so on. if thats right i end up with a steel disc last then the pressure plate.

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue May 31, 2011 5:12 pm

Snap ring has nothing to do with the order of the clutch discs, or the discs in general, it is just there on the hub, forget about it.. Correct order is install one fiber disc, install hub and driveshaft, steel disc, fiber, steel, fiber, steel, etc.
Lavoy

lp14255 · Post by **lp14255** » Tue May 31, 2011 6:05 pm

ok i'm alittle slow sometimes, you think john deere would've made changes to tell people like me thats the way it should be. thanks again.

rodger · Post by **rodger** » Tue May 31, 2011 11:09 pm

First day out today, threw right track after 10 minutes getting to know her, got it back on using bicycle chain method. Pumped more grease in. Then later threw left track. This time not in a happy place, swamp and mud buried sprocket. Once again bicycle chain trick and more grease, now paranoid about tightness stop every few minutes to pump in more grease. I guess there might have been air bubbles in the grease???

On a good note turns sharply left and right, like a Bobcat only better.

gerald · Post by **gerald** » Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:24 am

Rodger . It sound like both seals are blown out on the adjusters. I rebuilt both adjuster. One was froze up bad, but they both hold an had only to adjust them after rebuild . The job is feirley simple after the track is removed.

rodger · Post by **rodger** » Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:55 am

Based on the rusted bolts I guess you are correct, however it will have to wait until after the fencing job is done, Lavoy do you have the seals and odd shaped bolts?

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:31 am

Should have, depends on which style of seal you have in them.
Which bolts are you referring to?
Lavoy

rodger · Post by **rodger** » Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:45 pm

The ones next to the grease zerg, on top of the piston that tightens the track.

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:57 am

No odd shaped bolts there that I can think of, I must be misunderstanding you.
Lavoy

rodger · Post by **rodger** » Thu Jun 02, 2011 1:05 pm

The manual calls it the relieve tension bolt, it is next to the zerg.
I got her buried in swamp yesterday and yanked out with a huge tractor this a.m. she has never moved so fast in her life.
The cause of her getting stuck was that the right break went from being well set and working well to suddenly it would not turn right. I had to pull the lever to the rear while at the same time putting my foot on the foot break to get any type of turning.
Well in the swamp that caused her to dig through the roots and sink.
Any ideas as to why the break would stop working so soon after rebuild?

She spent the night in water ass end down, should I be pulling plugs and checking if water got in?
If it did what do I do, she is still out in the pasture. I left her as soon as she was unstuck.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Jun 02, 2011 3:16 pm

rodger wrote: The manual calls it the relieve tension bolt, it is next to the zerg.

I havern't looked at a 350 specifically but it should be a normal hex head bolt that is removed to allow grease to be forced out when the tensioner is compressed.

rodger wrote: She spent the night in water ass end down, should I be pulling plugs and checking if water got in? If it did what do I do, she is still out in the pasture. I left her as soon as she was unstuck.

I would definitely pull the plugs as soon as possible to let any retained water out. You will also want to run the machine for a while to dry out the housing and moisutre on the discs. If you let it sit too long it will cause the metal discs to rust and the fiber discs to swell which will cause the steerling clutch to cease functioning.

rodger · Post by **rodger** » Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:04 pm

The bolt has a tapered thin end with a locking nut half way up looks like the tapered end is meant to fit into something inside and seal it up tight.

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