350 diesel shutting down

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 3:56 am

I am new to this site and new to a JD 350 crawler loader. I actually have 2 1 gas and 1 diesel. The diesel machine is all together. The last owner recently rebuilt the engine new crank bearings sleaves pistons and had the head redone and checked possibly even milled it down so it was flat again. I got the machine and run it about 40 min and then started getting alot of smoke or at the least presure from the crank case breather. It ended up loosing all power and shut down. The next day she fired right up a little more cranking than ussual but started up had power again for about 10min then she looses power and eventually shuts down. I am now noticing the oil presure is at 20. Is this engine shot? Do I have blow by causing the presure in the crank case? I really appreaciate some advise as this is the first diesel engine I have ever owned. Also how do you tell what year it is. I have a large manual and it tells you what every letter/number represents but nothing on year. Thanks in advance.

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:27 am

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Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 1:01 pm

One thought I had it too much heat, is it cooling properly? Excessive heat will cause an engine to do what yours is, and will lead to lower oil pressure.
Lavoy

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 2:33 pm

The "smoke" I am replying to actually comes from the breather tube on the crankcase thats why I am thinking blow by.. Not sure if it is smoke or possibly un burned diesel fuel mist possibly from blow by ? It is not thick but kind of misty definately not black smoke. I have not changed any filters yet. I just got this a month ago the previous owner has new injectors looks like new filters and the diesel pump looks newer but I am not sure of it's age or rebuild status. The previous owner put all new gauges on it so I was thinking they were good readings. The temp gauge never goes over 160 is that right? I'll get the numbers on the pump tonight. The SN # below the seat is SNT4E3D027627T I was having trouble matching this up to a year in the FAQ section. Lavoy mentioned a heat problem. I was thinking the same thing when it happened but she has plenty of coolant. Lets assume the new temp gauge is no good how can I check to see if it is circulating coolant? I am determined to get 1 of my crawlers fully functional and this site is awsome. Thanks for all the help.

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:44 pm

The injection pump ID tag I see matches what I find in the manual a DBGFC331-130H. I seem to have plenty of fuel as I did bleed the lines at the injectors. I started it again with no problem, oil pressure would go as high as 30 but would not stay there. At low RPM it reads nothing and reved up it will hover around 18-20. After 5 min I shut it down and it would not crank fast enough to get a restart. If I try again after it cools it will start no problem again and do the same. I do think I have possibly a "nock" in the engine or a hell of lot of ping noise coming from it. Thinking about pulling the oil pan and possibly the head. Need to decide whether or not to fix this one or the gas unit. The gas unit runs good steers good but the entire undercarriage including the front crossbar and Rear sprockets will need to be swapped from the diesel unit. Keeping in mind these are loaders so the loader also attaches to that crossbar as well. The gas unit has 2 other extra options than this diesel it has power steering and a PTO shaft on the back. Has anybody noticed a difference between the engines? What to do? What to do?

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:00 pm

We have both, and either engine is good. If you are willing to rebuild the diesel, I would probably go that way for the long run.
Lavoy

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Wed Jul 13, 2011 4:21 am

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Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:16 pm

Well in an attempt to see what is causing the low oil pressure I drained it to take the oil pan off and it appeared awfully thin. So for the hell of it I filled it back up with new 30 weight and the oil pressure rocketed up to 45-55 at high RPM. at low rpm it wouldn't drop below 20. This did not get rid of the "knock noise. So I was able to finish pushing 8 1ton dump loads of dirt over the bank to make room. It ran good the entire time at least 30min pushing dirt. No smoke out of the crank case no loss of power and started back up 4-6 times during the coarse. I did notice the oil pressure not being as high and possibly slowly dropping. Before I shut it down I noticed at high rpm I could only get maybe 35. Is water getting into the oil and thining it out? Doesn't water make the oil milky color? If I can find out what is thining my oil and resolve it then I need to change the bearings what are the chances of changing them all (main bearings) from underneath and not pulling the engine? Maybe a new head gasket, bearings and oil pump? And this rebuilt engine suposably has a new crank too hope thats not damaged.

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 7:05 pm

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Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 7:44 pm

Ken
Thank you for the info. I have spent much time on this sirte reading many posts and looking at everyones projects. I did find where you posted on this same problem with fuel going into the oil. I may just convert this whole machine over to gas and rob the engine from my other machine. Thanks again to you and Lavoy for the info. I have yet to attach the hoe I got wonder how strong that is. I need to get one machine put together and working first.
Thanks again

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 9:11 pm

Before I would go to all the work of converting to gas, I would drop the pan and look at the bearings. If there is no crank damage, and the bearings have not spun, put in new bearings.
Water will not make the oil thin, so I am guessing it is fuel contamination. Find the source, fix the problem, and enjoy the crawler.
Lavoy

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 3:40 am

Lavoy
Is there a chance the bearings can be changed with out pulling the engine? I am wondering if I pull the crank main caps if bearings can be slipped in over the crank journal?

FL450B · Post by **FL450B** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:17 am

I HAD GOOD LUCK BY PUSHING IN THE NEW BEARINGS IN THE FRAME ON MANY CAR AND TRUCK MOTORS IT CAN BE A PAIN IN THE WELL YOU KNOW WHAT IAM SAYING BUT MOVING SLOW IT CAN BE DONE KEEP US UPDATED TO HOW YOU MAKE OUT IF YOU MOVE FOWARD ON SLIDING IN THE NEW BEARINGS

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 9:01 am

Most definiitely it can be done, that is what I was reffering to, should have explained it better, sorry.
Lavoy

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:22 am

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350 diesel shutting down

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