1968 John Deere 1010 needs starter

[Cardinal]

I found a "decent" John Deere 1010 dozer with a gas engine that the only thing the seller says is wrong with it is the starter.

What starter does it take and where can I get one at a reasonable price?

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,

John

[JD440ICD2006]

John,

Do you know the seller real well and for a long time?
Please read up on the JD 1010 C and the pros and cons.
If all it really "needs" is a starte, it is a one of a kind that has obviously been totally rebuilt.

[jtrichard]

any rebuild shops near you? i know im spoiled have a starter alt. shop about 15 miles from me if you can find one a rebuild would run from 80 to 200 there is one on ebay 175 plus shiping the seller says it diesel its not its gas i tried to tell him that its for a gaser he said i think i know what i took it off of. both will fit a diesel starter is longer and more torque i would get the seller to pay for a rebuild or another one and then you will find out how much more it needs as 440 said if thats all it needs you found one of a kind

[Cardinal]

Do you know the seller real well and for a long time?

Don't know him at all.

Please read up on the JD 1010 C and the pros and cons.

Can you post the link to that for me.

If all it really "needs" is a starte, it is a one of a kind that has obviously been totally rebuilt.

LOL! Been there, done that, and HATED myself for it. I bought a '78 Chevy Malibu that only need a little body work. NOT! It needed ALL of the brake parts replaced, fuel lines, gas tank, etc.

We have a good starter and DC motor rebuilder in Vestal, NY. I know he can rebuild it BUT sometimes it's less expensive (notice I didn't day cheaper) to buy a new one and be done with it. EX: my neighbor has a Dressta (originaly called a IH) dozer that the starter finally wouldn't turn the motor over. We took the old one out (a miserable job and the starter weighed 50#+) and he took it to the Dressta dealer to get it rebuilt. The counter person told him a new starter was $XXX and it would cost $XXX+ to rebuild the old one. So he bought the new starter. AND the new one is a high torque mini starter that whirls the dozer's motor over like it isn't there!

[jtrichard]

there is a rebuilt 160+ with 40 back for core on ebay and new ones made in china i bet 200 and 272 +

[Cardinal]

How hard is it to change the starter? Is it something that I could accomplish in a few hours or is it a long drawn out process?

[jtrichard]

two nuts 5/8 if i remember on the bell housing and two wires 9/16 or 5/8 and 11/32? delco solinoid/ cheve type on my 2010 its not verv hard but if its a early mod you have to remove the fuel filters 1010 should be about the same

[Cardinal]

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to send the seller a email asking a bunch of questions about the tracks (wear dimensions?), motor (will it run after the starter is changed?), how good are the steering clutches (good or need replacing?), fresh fuel (or do I need to bring some?), and battery (does it have a good one or do I need to bring one? BEFORE I commit to driving almost 7 hours to look at it.

I found the following websites to be VERY helpful in determining how worn a track is:

Pin wear: http://crawlerheaven.com/wearlimits.htm

Track link wear: http://crawlerheaven.com/tracklinks_chart.htm

I hope that those two internet sites will help other people determine EXACTLY what they are up against when trying to determine how worn tracks are.

[Lavoy]

I will bet you double the price of the crawler, and regardless of what the seller says that it will need more than just a starter. This is just like the "doesn't steer, but just needs and adjustment" you see in far too many ads for these old crawlers. If it needed just an adjustment, the guy would just adjust it. If it needed just a starter, he would put in just a starter. The price difference between a crawler that someone can run and drive, and one that the seller says "only needs a starter, and it will run and drive" is substantial. If the seller is unwilling to do it himself, or have it done to be able to advertise the crawler as running and driving, he is hiding something.
You would not believe the number of customers I have had that bought a "good running and driving or fully restored" crawler over the years, then find once it is home, found out how little really was done.
One bought a "restored" 440 from one of my competitors, then got it home and started to use it. Kind of funny how someone advertising a "restored" crawler would not mention that it had the optional water cooled reverser instead of the one that runs in oil like all the rest of the 440's with reversers. Not a bid deal, $1000 and a lot of labor later, he had it fixed.
Bottom line is, if you can't run and drive it when you get there, it doesn't run and drive, and buy it accordingly. For me, it doesn't matter, if it doesn't run, and that much is wrong, it becomes a parts crawler, but I do not believe that you are in the same situation, so be careful, I hate to see anyone get taken by a dishonest seller.
Lavoy

[Cardinal]

I appreciate and agree 100% with you. It's called "buying a pig in a poke".

I actually am not 100% interested in this JD1010 but want to keep it in mind as an "option".

I have other JD dozers that I'm looking at. One is a gentleman who is getting old and trying to "minimize" everything before something bad happens to him. He and I have talked quite a long time on the phone and this dozer runs, has a hydraulic six way blade, and the tracks look like they're in good shape. Time will tell if that one works out.

Another one is being sold by a dealer. His price is a little high and I need to find out what kind of warranty/guarantee goes with it. My guess is that it's a 5 and 5 one: five feet and five minutes! LOL! All I want from him is to know that the machine runs good, the tracks aren't worn out, and that the steering clutches have a lot of life left in them.

And again, I appreciate your input.