Steering clutch JD 450

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captdill
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Steering clutch JD 450

Post by captdill » Mon Sep 19, 2011 5:44 am

I'm the new guy. I bought a 450 about 6 months ago with a backhoe and it has been pretty good. The only real complaint has been a slipping left steering clutch. I just started to look at it yesterday and discovered that the master link in the track has been welded to the chain. Is there another way to get that track off and on? I would like comments on tricks I have read about like compressing the plow against the track to create slack, maybe running a stick between the chain and sprocket. If I let grease out of that strut, will I ever get it right again without an 8000 psi grease gun? Do I have to let it out? Has anybody ever taken the bolts out of the sprocket and pulled it and the track together away from the dozer to get access to the drive shaft?

Jeff

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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:02 am

Welcome to the board.

You can remove the track without splitting it by compressing the hydraulic adjuster and then jacking up the front and rear to remove the track from underneath. You can use the dozer blade as you described to compress the hydraulic adjuster back on the trackframe, if you have a hydralic dozer blade. However you will need to open the plug on the adjuster (not sure if you have original or aftermarket) to let the grease out as you compress it or you could blow the seals in your adjuster.

Even with it compressed you will have a little bit of trouble getting the track out from under the rollers and around the front idler unless the track is really worn.

I assume the master pin was tack welded to the outside of the master link and that the link themselves are not welded. If so you may be able to burn out the ends of the master pin with a torch and remove it that way.

Before you go through all that trouble, I would inspect the steering clutch through the inspection plate on top of the steering clutch housing- it may just be out of adjustment. I believe 450s have them.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

captdill
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Post by captdill » Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:33 am

Thanks,
I looked at the clutch yesterday, and it was out of adjustment, maybe the cause of premature wear. Now I can coax it to the right, but the clutch is still slipping alot. Am going to try your suggestion to remove the track. One thing you didn't answer was how to re-service the grease, must I purchase the special tool?

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:07 am

it takes a std grease gun to adj the tracks
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

captdill
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Post by captdill » Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:22 am

Very cool! Am heading out to get a bigger lever for the lugs on the sprocket. If I can't get them loose, then the rest won't matter.

captdill
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Post by captdill » Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:57 pm

This shade tree mechanic has successfully removed and installed the left steering clutch of my (approximately 1970 model) 450 crawler. Advice in this thread is all good. I got the track off without removing the master link. I broke a socket and bent a 1 1/8 inch wrench getting the sprocket lugs off, needing a 6 foot pipe for added leverage. The main message I would like to convey is that my clutch did not seem to be worn in the usual sense, rather it seemed to be suffering from improper installation.

I wish I could upload a picture to save a million words, but forum limitations are in the way. I would need to post it on a public site, or maybe you can see my email address and I could send a picture.

The pressure plate moves opposite to the throwout bearing. Actuating the clutch lever moves the bearing outboard, and the pressure plate inboard. In-between are 3 actuators on a fulcrum. The amount of pressure imposed by the pressure plate against the 8 layers of clutch is adjustable by a 1/2 inch bolt that is accessable through the steering clutch cover. backing this bolt out will compress the springs more and add pressure, possibly restoring clutch function without removing the clutch. But if you back it out too far, the actuator will fail, take it from me. I had to get two welded after they cracked.

I could not have restored my clutch function in this manner (without removing it) mostly because the referenced bolts were seized and they broke rather than turn. I had to drill out the stud and clean out remaining threads with a tap. I really don't think I could have done that with the clutch installed due to space limitations.

I mentioned an improper installation. The problem refers again to the bolt on the pressure plate mentioned above, which you will find has a nut threaded to it to hold its position. Somebody had put a large washer under the stop nut, which, in turn, did not allow the pressure plate to move outboard when the steering lever was released. Only one of 3 bolts had the over-sized washer; the other two actuators were enough for it to work for a while, but ultimately this one limited the movement of the entire clutch.

While this forum provided essential information for me to do the work, there were a couple of things I would like to add. Firstly, I spent no more than $175 to remove the assembly and replace the linings, plus a few springs and bushings. It took about 1.5 days to get it apart, working alone, and 1.5 days to get it back together. Just relocating the dozer for somebody else to do the work would have cost me $200. How much would a qualified mechanic charge me for 3 days of work? Now it drives better than ever, and I am loving it. Thanks to all for your assistance.

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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Mon Oct 10, 2011 1:17 pm

captdill wrote: I wish I could upload a picture to save a million words, but forum limitations are in the way. I would need to post it on a public site, or maybe you can see my email address and I could send a picture.
Glad the posts helped.

As for photos, many of us use Photobucket or similar free sharing sites and then link to them here. I have a post on how to do this in the "Messageboard Q&A and Announcement" forum of this site.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

captdill
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Post by captdill » Mon Oct 10, 2011 1:53 pm


DirtyMike
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Re: Steering clutch JD 450

Post by DirtyMike » Sun Jul 08, 2018 3:20 pm

Hey everyone I am in the middle of steering clutch replacement. Strait JD 450 1967 model. I am trying to get the shaft out. It came out quite a ways but it will not budge now. I can tap it in and out but it hits solid coming out. It is loose I can wiggle it around but it just won't come that last little bit. This is the outer shaft. I am using a slide hammer I fabricated. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks

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Stan Disbrow
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Re: Steering clutch JD 450

Post by Stan Disbrow » Sun Jul 08, 2018 4:45 pm

Hi,

Close. The IMG tags need to be lower case.

Stan
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DirtyMike
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Re: Steering clutch JD 450

Post by DirtyMike » Sun Jul 08, 2018 10:05 pm

Well finally beat both shafts out. WD40 and angry determination and tons of good information that's been posted on here. Thanks to everyone who posts here it was a huge help getting the clutch out.
Mike

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psprague
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Re: Setting clutch on a JD450

Post by psprague » Mon Jul 09, 2018 10:19 am

captdill wrote:
Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:22 am
Very cool! Am heading out to get a bigger lever for the lugs on the sprocket. If I can't get them loose, then the rest won't matter.

I got this from my dad, it uses half inch drive and a 3/4 socket with a planetary gear set. I first used a 6-foot pipe on the sprocket bolts and broke a socket. With this, I broke all of them loose with a 2-foot half inch ratchet and my foot. I think he got it at a Vermeer auction in Pella, they sell off special tools all the time.

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