350 Steering Shaft
350 Steering Shaft
This past summer I rebuilt the final drives and steering clutches on my 350B. Since putting it back together the left side the steering shaft will not rotate to slide the throughout bearing onto the pressure plate. Has anyone run into this problem? Any ideas? Thanks.
1970 350B Crawler Loader
-
andregrondin
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 215
- Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:51 am
- Location: Granby,Québec, Canada
Hi !
I'm no expert at all but the shaft ( on a 350 straight) is put into the final drive
then the final drive onto the steering clutch , then the whole assembly into
the steering & brake housing , then the spline should slip in .
hopefully this will help .
I'm no expert at all but the shaft ( on a 350 straight) is put into the final drive
then the final drive onto the steering clutch , then the whole assembly into
the steering & brake housing , then the spline should slip in .
hopefully this will help .
Dig in boy !!
J-D 350 straight 1966
model # = T4F3D
serial # = 08883T
J-D 690-B 1980
model # = D690B
serial # = 007364T
Mack RB688S 1990 dumper
J-D 350 straight 1966
model # = T4F3D
serial # = 08883T
J-D 690-B 1980
model # = D690B
serial # = 007364T
Mack RB688S 1990 dumper
Glenn,
I will assume you are talking about the vertical mounted shaft that your throw out bearing is pivoted by. There are a couple of possibilities that I have ran into. One being the shaft is frozen by rust in position and wont allow it to rotate. The most common thing is a damaged tube that the throw out bearing collar slides on. What happens is, when removing the final drive the axle will stay stuck in the clutch pack. As the final drive is removed the axle damages the tube because of the off angles that occur during the process. It is hard to remove these finals without damaging these tubes. It can be done though. They are thin walled and can't stand much abuse. There is basically no tolerance between the axle diameter and the tubes inner diameter. This damage then will not allow the throw out bearing collar to slide freely and is why your shaft won't rotate. Other things could be the problem as well but this is usually what it is. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you will have to remove the final again to repair this. I have straightened these tubes, but with little success. It's better to just replace them. And on that!!! Be careful not to distort the new tube on installation! After you install the new tube, slide the throw out collar onto the tube and make sure it slides freely. It has to work freely. I would also remove the linkages and shafts and clean them up. Then use anti seize on all pivot points. It resists rust better than grease. When you are ready to go back together, install the axle in the transmission. Then use longer pilot bolts ( 5/8" X 10" and grade eight bolts ) to help guide the final drive back to the clutch housing. Install the pilot bearing in your final drive. Once you start sliding this back together you can rotate the sprocket flange to help line the splines of your axle and clutch pack hub. Make sure your brake band has been backed off enough to allow your brake drum to slide in. Let us know what you find. Some of these other guys may have better advice but I hope this helps. Good Luck!! Leonard
I will assume you are talking about the vertical mounted shaft that your throw out bearing is pivoted by. There are a couple of possibilities that I have ran into. One being the shaft is frozen by rust in position and wont allow it to rotate. The most common thing is a damaged tube that the throw out bearing collar slides on. What happens is, when removing the final drive the axle will stay stuck in the clutch pack. As the final drive is removed the axle damages the tube because of the off angles that occur during the process. It is hard to remove these finals without damaging these tubes. It can be done though. They are thin walled and can't stand much abuse. There is basically no tolerance between the axle diameter and the tubes inner diameter. This damage then will not allow the throw out bearing collar to slide freely and is why your shaft won't rotate. Other things could be the problem as well but this is usually what it is. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you will have to remove the final again to repair this. I have straightened these tubes, but with little success. It's better to just replace them. And on that!!! Be careful not to distort the new tube on installation! After you install the new tube, slide the throw out collar onto the tube and make sure it slides freely. It has to work freely. I would also remove the linkages and shafts and clean them up. Then use anti seize on all pivot points. It resists rust better than grease. When you are ready to go back together, install the axle in the transmission. Then use longer pilot bolts ( 5/8" X 10" and grade eight bolts ) to help guide the final drive back to the clutch housing. Install the pilot bearing in your final drive. Once you start sliding this back together you can rotate the sprocket flange to help line the splines of your axle and clutch pack hub. Make sure your brake band has been backed off enough to allow your brake drum to slide in. Let us know what you find. Some of these other guys may have better advice but I hope this helps. Good Luck!! Leonard
40 plus years working on JD 350s, 400Gs, 450s and other equipment both Ag and Construction.
Leonard,
You're absolutely right. It is the vertical shaft that does not rotate. Your thoughts on the problem with the tube that the throughout bearing slides on are where I think the problem may be as well. When I put the final drive back in place things where difficult to keep aligned. We probably did bend the tube. As much as I'm not looking forward to pulling the final drive again I have accepted the fact it has to be done. The shaft is not rusted or ceased. In fact I and to remove it to replace the spring around the shaft.
This was my first time doing any major work on the tractor. In reading the forum and trying to anticipate how long it would take to do the steering clutches I was in for bit of a surprise. Hats off to the guys that can replace the steering clutch in 6 hours. It took me 6-7 long days to complete. That's both steering clutches, one complete rebuild on one final drive, both track adjuster seal kits and some welding to repair cracks. The part that really got me was the previous owner had several bolts broken and left in the machine. These treasurers took so much time.
I will let you know what the problem was when I repair it over the next couple weeks. Thanks again!
Glenn,,,
You're absolutely right. It is the vertical shaft that does not rotate. Your thoughts on the problem with the tube that the throughout bearing slides on are where I think the problem may be as well. When I put the final drive back in place things where difficult to keep aligned. We probably did bend the tube. As much as I'm not looking forward to pulling the final drive again I have accepted the fact it has to be done. The shaft is not rusted or ceased. In fact I and to remove it to replace the spring around the shaft.
This was my first time doing any major work on the tractor. In reading the forum and trying to anticipate how long it would take to do the steering clutches I was in for bit of a surprise. Hats off to the guys that can replace the steering clutch in 6 hours. It took me 6-7 long days to complete. That's both steering clutches, one complete rebuild on one final drive, both track adjuster seal kits and some welding to repair cracks. The part that really got me was the previous owner had several bolts broken and left in the machine. These treasurers took so much time.
I will let you know what the problem was when I repair it over the next couple weeks. Thanks again!
Glenn,,,
1970 350B Crawler Loader
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