Getting ready to rebuild the steering clutches on my 450B

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crawler123
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Post by crawler123 » Thu Oct 27, 2011 12:09 pm

Second track off with only a few minutes of wacking. What a difference it makes when you can get a full swing at it.
Whew !!

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KenP
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Post by KenP » Thu Oct 27, 2011 1:35 pm

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crawler123
430 crawler
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Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2011 1:36 pm
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Post by crawler123 » Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:02 pm

I was kind of worried about getting those 9 big bolts out on the sprockets.
No problem with a 3/4 breaker bar and a cheater. :lol:

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Now I'm trying to get the seat/tank assembly ready to lift off.
Wow all those hydraulic lines. Can't seem to find the protective plastic plugs locally. Figures !!
I found that a folded baggie and rubber band works better. Keeps most of the bugs and dirt out and some of the hydraulic fluid in. :D

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crawler123
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Post by crawler123 » Sun Oct 30, 2011 12:57 pm

Up and away with the seat tank assembly.

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And then on the ground on wood blocks.
It was heavy but the old "M" didn't have any trouble with it.

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Now on to the rusty parts.

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crawler123
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Post by crawler123 » Sun Oct 30, 2011 5:08 pm

Ok now I have a problem. The brake band adjuster screw seems to be frozen. So I can't loosen the band. Any ideas? Should I try to pull the pinion and drive shaft to get the clutch out of the way?
Any ideas here would be great.
thanks

andregrondin
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Post by andregrondin » Mon Oct 31, 2011 6:47 am

Hi !

You can try penetrating oil , or heat ( but gently ) and if the adjuster is shot
the cut it off .
Dig in boy !!
J-D 350 straight 1966
model # = T4F3D
serial # = 08883T

J-D 690-B 1980
model # = D690B
serial # = 007364T

Mack RB688S 1990 dumper

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crawler123
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Post by crawler123 » Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:35 am

Here is a picture of the brake band adjusting screw. It's a special screw with detents. I really don't want to break this screw. It's rusted into the pin at the end of the brake band. Any suggestions?

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Also anyone know how to loosen the pinion shaft locking screw? Looks like it's a square head bolt and it's located down in a hole?
Is there a special tool for this? I dumped liquid wrench on it last night but I bet it's as rusted as the rest of everything in the clutch housing. It looks like everything in here has sat in sea water it's so bad.

KenP
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Post by KenP » Mon Oct 31, 2011 11:29 am

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crawler123
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Post by crawler123 » Mon Oct 31, 2011 11:59 am

Thanks Ken and andregrondin for those helpful hints.
I've already tried the impact a little but I think the flexing of the brake band takes the impact shock out before it gets to the threads.
I will try a little heat later.

I'm thinking now that if I get that clutch housing out of the way I will be able to get at the end of the brake band easier.

I was able to loosen the pinion lock nut on the clutch housing. I haven't tried the lock bolt yet because it is a square head. Not sure how to attack that.

Anyone know the thread size on the pinion shaft? I'm measuring 3/8x16. Just want to be sure before buying some allthread for slide hammering.

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crawler123
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Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2011 1:36 pm
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Post by crawler123 » Mon Oct 31, 2011 2:49 pm

Well got the brake band adjust screw to move. It just took some more elbow grease and a liberal dowsing with liquid wrench.

On the other side that adjuster screw is completely free.

Also on the other side the pinion lock bolt and nut are missing.
I wonder what that would have done to the way the clutches worked?
I'm guessing that with that screw missing that the whole clutch assembly would have moved outward and not wanted to dis-engage the clutch.

There are some springs missing and clips missing. It's a wonder this thing ever worked at all.

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:40 am

with the set screw missing the clutch will float and wont work for s--t i think the head is 5/16 square i got a socket from sears best price by far.... and in the rust deparment my 2010 looked worse that your 450 i had to take a air chisel to get the clutch pack apart... center drum shot was abel to get presure plate rebuilt and sandblasted the brake drum found used set of clutch plates and steels added one extra steel to make up for wear and away we go working fine
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

andregrondin
440 crawler
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Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2011 6:51 am
Location: Granby,Québec, Canada

Post by andregrondin » Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:01 am

HI !

Glad for you it starting to un-freeze even if winter is arriving !LOL
I'm jealous too about the ample space you have to work !!!!
Dig in boy !!
J-D 350 straight 1966
model # = T4F3D
serial # = 08883T

J-D 690-B 1980
model # = D690B
serial # = 007364T

Mack RB688S 1990 dumper

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crawler123
430 crawler
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Posts: 97
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2011 1:36 pm
Location: montana

Post by crawler123 » Tue Nov 01, 2011 12:32 pm

Ok I'm kind of stuck again. If you look at the picture below you will see a shaft and two cast bell crank things on it. Well those 2 pieces and that shaft have to come out of the way before I can lift the clutch pack out of the housing.
Now I'm reading the service manual and the description of what to do is just going right over my head. It has to do with moving these 2 pieces around and that woodruff key you can see inside the red circle. Then somehow I should be able to remove the obstruction.
I really need to talk to someone who has done the 450b to make sense of this.


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crawler123
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Post by crawler123 » Tue Nov 01, 2011 2:09 pm

Looking at the side of the tractor there is a strange plug where the end of that shaft would be.
Does this plug have to come out so the shaft and bell cranks can be removed?

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crawler123
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Post by crawler123 » Wed Nov 02, 2011 1:01 pm

Well got the shaft and bell cranks out of the way. That plug on the outside just turned out to be a thin cap and popped out easily.
Getting the woodruff keys out took a little more time.

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Got the first pinion shaft out without incident.
Turns out the thread size in the pinion is 7/16x14 and not 3/8x16 like I had originally thought.
Glad I caught that before any damage was done.

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Now I need to figure some way of supporting the clutch drum before I try the inner drive shaft.

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