-HELP-do i understnd this wright? 350c

switchhappy · Post by **switchhappy** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:56 am

ok, befor i mess up here, i wanna make sure i have this right, i got a jd 350c thats been a pain to put back together, now i have put 303 oil in the reverser witch i call the front tranny, and 303 oil in the rear tranny, were the ring and pinion and gears are? this is right so far? right??, now i also used 80w90 in the lower finials were each sproket is.? correct? k now the steering housing were the pack and the brake band is , this stays dry right? because the clutch pack stays dry with the brake band, right?,,, the jd-c onlu uses hydro fluid to put pressure on the pack, correct or wrong? what im asking is that area were the brake band and the pack its self is should be dry, or is there somewere to fill it also?,, thanks

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 10:58 am

Wow dude you sound desperate!

Okay, first things first. Your 350C has a common oil sump or reservoir of oil that includes all of the following. Transmission, Steering clutch housings and the final drives. The Reverser is separate and has its own reservoir of oil which is the same type of oil used in the rest of your drive line.
Your finals do not need 80/90W oil in them. You should remove this and allow the "303" or "Tractor Hydraulic Oil" to fill the cavities of the final drives. Your Steering clutch housings will fill with oil to match the full level of your transmission "Dip Stick". It then is the monitor for the full or run levels for all these components. Your "Reverser" has its own dip stick to monitor it.
So, Yes your clutches run wet or in oil. I think the amount of oil total is some where around eleven (11 U.S. gallons). I usually fill the transmission first and bring it up to the full mark on the dip stick. Then I usually fill the clutch housings up to about half way or about three 3 gallons each and let it filter down into the finals until they are full. I then will wait a while to let these levels settle in together. All of these components are open to each other either by a passage way or through the bearings.
I hope this helps you and remember we are here to help you. Let us know how you are doing with it.

cdunn · Post by **cdunn** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 12:09 pm

When you say 350C, I assume you mean the C stands for the model; ie. Model 350C. Sometimes, I"ve seen people use the C to designate the tractor as being a crawler; if it is a 350 (straight is most times used as model designation) or a 350B, then the clutch housings are dry (no oil in them at all)
This may sound like a really dumb explanation but it is sometihing I did not know until a while after I got my 350(straight)

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 1:42 pm

cdunn wrote:When you say 350C, I assume you mean the C stands for the model; ie. Model 350C. Sometimes, I"ve seen people use the C to designate the tractor as being a crawler; if it is a 350 (straight is most times used as model designation) or a 350B, then the clutch housings are dry (no oil in them at all)
This may sound like a really dumb explanation but it is sometihing I did not know until a while after I got my 350(straight)

I was going to say the same thing- if you have dry steering clutches than you likely have a straight 350 or 350B. The ID data plate would say "350C" or "350BC", the "C" means crawler. There is a good thread on this at this location about the 450s, which have the same issue:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ight=plate

Here are the parts differentiation between 350, 350Bs, and 350Cs:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=2410

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 3:01 pm

deleted

LeonardL · Post by **LeonardL** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 9:26 pm

I am assuming that every one is trying to say that I should have asked you first and foremost, do you for sure have a 350C. It is my mistake in not asking you that question first. With that said, Before you do anything I suggested in my first post to you, please make sure the machine you have is indeed a 350C. If it is not a 350C then forget and disregard my first post. I apologize for not asking you this very important first question.

KenP · Post by **KenP** » Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:21 am

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cdunn · Post by **cdunn** » Sat Oct 22, 2011 6:10 pm

Mr. Layton: The advice you gave concerning the Model 350C is right down the pipe correct. Switchhappy had said some things in a way that made me wonder if he truely had a Model 350C, and he may have. I have seen confusion related to Model 350C and C used as a designation for Crawler, happen here before and anyone who has followed this forum long has "seen this rabbit chased before". I own two 350's both are straights; I have gained a lot more knowledge about them since you have been contributing. Please continue to do so.

switchhappy · Post by **switchhappy** » Sun Oct 23, 2011 12:18 am

well my plat on the side box says 350c or 350ce... the clutch packs looked like they have had oil on them befor, and yes i do have the steering valve body under the seat, this thaing just has me all confucsed, cuz iv never had a dozer that had no fill plugs or check plugs for its different parts, so i kinda want to make sure oil gets in there... so i have so far only filled the rear tranny with the 303 to the fill mark, so when i start this the system should pressureize and fill what cavitys that need to be filled right, then i keep checking and filling till the stick stays on the full mark? do i need to dump say 2 gallons in each clutch housing first? if so were at? thew were u adjust the brake bands?

switchhappy · Post by **switchhappy** » Sun Oct 23, 2011 12:25 am

o yea and thanks a ton guys,, this is my 4th lil crawler iv had, and the 2nt deere one, my first was a 440, so all this wet cluch crap is confusing me, i spent months and long night picing this 350c together pice by pice, i keep her from the scrap yard, it took three 18ft trailer loads of parts to get it all home, and i ait got any fancy tools or big shop to work in eather just had tools, so every bolt, nut and pice has been done by hand and with a engine hoist.. iv re asembled from front to back by my self so when im asking all these questions i just dont wanna goof up and have a baring or gear fail cuz im to stuip to have filled a sertin part,,, so thanks for all your help guys
so all that needs filled should fill on it own when runing?? if so that means just keep a eye on the level and keep it full on the dip stick by my feet...

CatD8RII · Post by **CatD8RII** » Mon Oct 24, 2011 11:00 am

There is no pump in the transmission/steering clutches or finals. It will eventually level out but it will take a while. Leonard has explained the best and fastest way to fill the compartments. Personally I would NOT use gear oil any where in the machine. Id expect 80w-90 to be too thick to properly lube the clutch discs and brake drum/bands.

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-HELP-do i understnd this wright? 350c

-HELP-do i understnd this wright? 350c

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