JD 450B track problems

bamaboy2006 · Post by **bamaboy2006** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 1:12 pm

Hello

I am new to crawler world and was just wanting to get some ideas from more experienced owners.

I just bought a 1975 JD 450BA Loader. It came with the bucket and dozier blade. When I purchased the machine the previous owner said the right side undercarriage had just been replaced but the left side was around 30%. I slipped the track off a few months ago and had a time getting it back on.

The track adjuster would not move forward or backwards so I am guessing that it is frozen. I was using the machine this weekend and the track came off again but this time I was in a very bad spot and ended up knocking th track completly off. I managed to get the machine on level ground and was wondering what the best way would be to repair this. I have read that these machines do not have a master link and the only way to get the track apart is to drive a pin out.

I am guessing that I need to remove the adjuster and really have no idea were to start. Any help would be appreciated.

Also the left steering doesn't work unless you are backing up a hill. Any idea on how to adjust this or do I need to replace something

Thanks for any help

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 1:37 pm

First of all, welcome to the board. it is a great help to be able to discuss with all of these knowledgable folks on here.

I may be mistaken, but there should be a master pin for your track. Definitely do not go and knock out any pin in the track or you may not be able to repair without a track press. The master pin will likely look a lot like the others but will have dimple to indicate it- you may have to wash off dirt to see this. Once identified, the master pin is then driven out- you usually have to use a lot of force and/or heat to get it out. I don't know if 450B master pins have a retaining clip but that would also have to be removed if present. You could always burn out the master pin if all else fails. here is a helpful post about this:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... n&start=30

This all assumes you don't have SALT tracks- they were aftermarket and you can read about that here:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... master+pin

The first step to replacing or repairing the hydraulic adjuster is to remove the track, so you are already ahead of the game. Before you remove the adjuster, I would see if you can try to collapse the adjuster using another piece of equipment such as a small skid steer loader. After removing the grease retaining bolt, you can try to force the the idler into the adjuster using the corner of the bucket. If you get lucky, you may be able to free it up. Just be careful doing this.

If you need to remove it, the next steps may vary slightly by crawler. I am describing for how it goes with the 2010 but wouldn't think it is much different for a 450B. You will need to unbolt the adjuster from the front idler (the large wheel on the front of the trackframe). On mine there are 4 bolts retaining the adjuster to the front idler bracket. After the front idler is removed, you should be able to slide toe adjuster out of the spring assembly. Once out you can either decide to try and free up the old one, rebuild your existing one, or get an aftermarket replacement.

As for your left steering, braking works best in reverse so you are probably noticing brake band application. The actual steering clutch may or may not be working. The first step is to adjust according to the procdure in the operator or service manual- this has to be done according to the instructions to get proper application when you pull the steering lever.. At that point you can also inspect whether there is oil in the steering clutch housing and wear on the brake band. If adjustment doesn't work or if you notice oil in the housing, then you are probably looking at steering clutch and/or brake band replacement at a minimum. DO NOT pour any liquids into the housing until your read up more as you can ruin the steering clutch that way.

The previous advice assumes that you have dry steering clutches- most 450Bs had dry clutches but the very tail end of the 450B production receved wet (oil immersed) steering clutches. This would have likely been in 1976 but the records on when the conversion happened are unclear. There are some telltail ways to identify for sure.

bamaboy2006 · Post by **bamaboy2006** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 3:02 pm

Thank you very much Tigerhaze for your quick response! I will have to find me a manual for this thing.

bamaboy2006 · Post by **bamaboy2006** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 3:12 pm

I have read that there are two grease fittings on the track adjuster but I can only locate one. There is a grease fitting and a square head bolt at the front of the adjuster but that's all I can see.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:15 pm

bamaboy2006 wrote:I have read that there are two grease fittings on the track adjuster but I can only locate one. There is a grease fitting and a square head bolt at the front of the adjuster but that's all I can see.

The grease fitting is self-explanatory- that is where you pump grease to expand the adjuster. In the parts manual, they show two locations for the fitting depending on serial number range and application.

The square bolt is the pressure relief- you remove that plug when you collapse the adjuster to allow grease to escape. One note of caution- there is a check ball under that plug that you need to catch before you lose it in a ball of grease.

Here is a diagram in the parts manual for it:

http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com. ... model=450b

Look under the crawler tractor, sectional view, tracks and shoes, hydraulic track tension adjuster.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:22 pm

bamaboy2006 wrote:Thank you very much Tigerhaze for your quick response! I will have to find me a manual for this thing.

You can buy manuals from Deere in multiple formats- as you already saw the parts manuals are free online but for adjustment procedures and repair you will likely need both the operator and service manuals:

http://www.johndeeretechinfo.com/index. ... t_id=40817&

http://www.johndeeretechinfo.com/index. ... _id=281576&

bamaboy2006 · Post by **bamaboy2006** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 11:31 pm

I removed the front idler this morning but the adjuster will not budge. Are there any other bolts I need to remove. The rear cover that's is over the spring will not come off. The bolts are completely worn down and you can not get a wrench on them. Do I need to hook something to the adjuster and just try to pull it out?

DBCSteve · Post by **DBCSteve** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 8:50 am

bamaboy2006 wrote:I removed the front idler this morning but the adjuster will not budge. Are there any other bolts I need to remove. The rear cover that's is over the spring will not come off. The bolts are completely worn down and you can not get a wrench on them. Do I need to hook something to the adjuster and just try to pull it out?

I wrapped a chain around both of mine (after removing the yoke) and pulled 'em out with a come along.

bamaboy2006 · Post by **bamaboy2006** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 10:53 am

Does the yoke just slip off? I have beat it with a big hammer and tried prying it off but it hasn't come off yet.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:27 am

On my 2010 the entire adjuster assembly (yoke and piston rod) comes out as a unit- there is a cylindrical bracket ahead of the spring cover that the piston rod slides through. However it is not bolted on there in any way and the piston rod just a snug fit within the spring assembly as well- not bolted in any way.

I am assuming that the 450 adjusters are similar, and if so should just slide foward as an assembly once the front idlers are removed. After all these years there may be some grime and rust holding it in, so may take some force above and beyond hammering or a small come-along.

DBCSteve · Post by **DBCSteve** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:28 pm

bamaboy2006 wrote:Does the yoke just slip off? I have beat it with a big hammer and tried prying it off but it hasn't come off yet.

See this thread, which has a link to my pictures:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... f2013a3094

Steve

DBCSteve · Post by **DBCSteve** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:32 pm

bamaboy2006 wrote:Does the yoke just slip off? I have beat it with a big hammer and tried prying it off but it hasn't come off yet.

See this thread, which has a link to my pictures:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... f2013a3094

Steve

bamaboy2006 · Post by **bamaboy2006** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:41 pm

DBCSteve wrote:
bamaboy2006 wrote:Does the yoke just slip off? I have beat it with a big hammer and tried prying it off but it hasn't come off yet.
See this thread, which has a link to my pictures:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... f2013a3094

Steve

Thanks Steve. I will hook a chain to it the next nice day and see if I can get it out. Where did you get your new chains and pads? My right side is new but i am afraid that the left side needs replacing. The previous owner has spacers between the tensioner and the front roller. I guess this means that the track has streached out or something has worn out.

Also have you ever had to adjust your steering clutches? My right steering works very good but the left will not steer unless you are going uphill backwards.

DBCSteve · Post by **DBCSteve** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:10 pm

Got the chains (aka rails) and pads, assembled, at my local Berco dealer in Woodland, California. I think I paid about $4k for both sides, assembled, as well as two new sprockets. That also includes California sales tax. They did not charge for assembling the tracks, which saved me a lot of time. It helped to have our backhoe to unload the tracks and roll 'em out. Mine are not SALT tracks -- just the regular ones since I only put on about 100 hours a year. Assembled tracks were about 1000 lbs each.

At the same time I got two aftermarket track adjusters for about $550 each delivered. Probably could have saved some money there and got thru Lavoy.

DBCSteve · Post by **DBCSteve** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:23 pm

One more thought about your tracks. You said there are spacers between the adjuster and idler, but that is normal if they are fairly thin. Mine has 3-4 thin spacers on each arm of the yoke, and they are used make sure the idler is running straight. An obvious measure of wear on the pins and sprocket is the location of the idler bracket on the side frame. If it is at the front and the idler cannot be pushed forward anymore with the track adjuster (i.e. it would run off the front of the frame), time to replace. Good to check sprocket wear too -- do not put new chains on a badly worn sprocket. Search this web site for threads on this subject and you'll see some good advice.

Not to add more unnecessary expense, but while you are at it, check the condition of the five bottom rollers. Easier to replace at this point if they need it.

To answer another of your questions, I have not had to adjust my clutches. My 450C has wet clutches (my old 350b had dry clutches, and did require periodic adjustment -- gotta do this EXACTLY per the instructions in the manual).

Steve

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