Any hints for removing a broken roll pin?

[MarkW]

Hi all,

I have a stubborn roll (tension) pin fragment that I am trying to get out and it has been fighting me pretty successfully. It was holding a tooth to the stud on the lower edge of the bucket and the tooth managed to shear it off on the top, and it is recessed about 3/8" inch on the bottom.

At this point I have just been trying various punch/drift and hammer combinations, and have not even been able to budge it. It has a few bits of rock in the center that have given me pause before I try drilling it out, but I am getting to the point of choosing a sacrificial drill bit.

Unfortunately I do not have a cutting torch at this time so I can't burn it out, do the learneds out there have any suggestions of anything else to try before drilling? I've used oil and an air hammer with a drift as well as hammers.

Anyway, thanks for reading. It sounds dumb to get stymied by a 50 cent part but just goes to show a person is never too old to learn.

Thanks!

Mark

[KenP]

deleted

[MarkW]

Ken,

Thanks for the caution. I've tried a few of the "Journeyman" stern word vocabulary with no effect so far, but I haven't set loose the dogs of war and used any of the "Master" word vocabulary yet (actually, most of those are phrases now that I think about it).

I am fortunate that it is not in a blind hole and I can get at it from both sides. Right now I have the bucket in the air as I've pulled the injection pump for rebuilding, so I am mainly approaching it from the bottom.

After some thought, I am going to try a small bit to clear out the center and then see about running a propane torch flame through it and see if that can loosen things up a bit.

[jdemaris]

Hi all,

I have a stubborn roll (tension) pin fragment that I am trying to get out and it has been fighting me pretty successfully.

If it is REALLY a roll pin, it is designed to come right out when you grab it and rotate in the proper direction. Rotating against the "roll" relieves the tension. If it's a SPLIT pin, things are different. Those I often have to torch out.

[FL450B]

i find that if you use a roll split pin punch that they come out pretty smoothly the punchs cost a bit but they will make life easy good luck

[jdemaris]

i find that if you use a roll split pin punch that they come out pretty smoothly the punchs cost a bit but they will make life easy good luck

Yes, I've got an old set of Mayhew special split-pin dimpled punches that work very well. I bought my first set 50 years ago and they still sell the same sets today.

That being said, those punches are useless if the pin is in a blind hole and you can't drive it through - or get behind it to drive out. In blind holes - often true roll pins are used instead of split pins. That because if grabbed and rotated properly - tension is relieved and they almost fall out. That's what GM uses in a the many blind holes in automatic transmissions.

I just has a heck of time buying real roll pins. I went to three auto parts stores and not one person knew the difference between a roll pin and a split pin. I ended up having to order a bunch on-line.

[jtrichard]

i have a zts35 and the teeth are held on with REAL roll pins and i have destoryed two punches getting then out torch is what i have to use most to the time i not been able to (spin)them out yet with all the dirt packed in like concrete JD nice to see someone elese knows what a split pin is.... roll pins are about like(freeze plugs) core plugs ha ha lol lol ask a parts store for a core or a soft plug and they look at you like your from mars

[jtrichard]

for any one that dont know a zts 35 is a mini excavator