Thanks. Do you use one on each side? and I presume you use angle instead of tube? Talk of brackets and chain got me wondering if there was more to it. Measurements would be great, thanks for your help.
Stan, you're correct, "Made in Germany", 350AA 310633L "John Deere Werke Mannhein".
There's also a plate next to the instrument panel with "made in France", E7350 003356CD. and the engine plate also states made in France. The engine number is 3 152DL which from my research is the smaller engine from the earlier models so slightly confused about that. Either way it works, although I've had an overheating problem which appears to be just a blocked top rad hose and faulty thermostat, fingers crossed that's all it was, looking forward to getting on with more work now the land has started to dry up for the summer.
Grille removal
Re: Grille removal
John Deere 350AA
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Re: Grille removal
Hi,
Yes, one angle on each side. Just lay them on the rods and slowly lower the boom until the stop the thing dropping. Now they are pinched in place and the thing can't come crashing down if something lets go in the hydraulics. Or, the shop cat gets up by the lever and starts rubbing it because you are too busy to pay it any attention....
Yup. Machine made in Mannheim, engine made in Saran. The 3/152 was used until the early 1980s. My 78 350C has a 3/152. I would have to get the Parts Catalog out (I have a 1986 PC for the 350C) and look up the serial number break point to get the precise 'when' it changed.
The 3/152 was in the wheel tractors 820 and 1020 and the 3/164 was in the 1520, so the larger one was around all along. The smaller tractor use ended mid 70s IIRC and I suspect they finally decided to drop a lot of part numbers and just stick the larger one in the 350.
Stan
Yes, one angle on each side. Just lay them on the rods and slowly lower the boom until the stop the thing dropping. Now they are pinched in place and the thing can't come crashing down if something lets go in the hydraulics. Or, the shop cat gets up by the lever and starts rubbing it because you are too busy to pay it any attention....
Yup. Machine made in Mannheim, engine made in Saran. The 3/152 was used until the early 1980s. My 78 350C has a 3/152. I would have to get the Parts Catalog out (I have a 1986 PC for the 350C) and look up the serial number break point to get the precise 'when' it changed.
The 3/152 was in the wheel tractors 820 and 1020 and the 3/164 was in the 1520, so the larger one was around all along. The smaller tractor use ended mid 70s IIRC and I suspect they finally decided to drop a lot of part numbers and just stick the larger one in the 350.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Re: Grille removal
I'm sorry I forgot about this, my angles are 24" long. You don't need the chains, once you let the loader down on them you can't drive them out ( I tried).
JD- 450C track loader
Serial #208336T
Serial #208336T
Re: Grille removal
On a JD 350 removing the grill shell was not as easy as the JD manual says , it shows just putting a chain thru the radiator door and looping it around the grill shell to lift the shell. That makes the grill shell off balance and tipped forward.
What I did was to drill a hole in the top of the grill shell, put in a 3/8 lifting eye bolt , then used a chain hoist , this way the grill shell is easy to move around.
What I did was to drill a hole in the top of the grill shell, put in a 3/8 lifting eye bolt , then used a chain hoist , this way the grill shell is easy to move around.
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