76 350C STEERING AND BRAKING QUESTION

[dozingdozer]

HI FOLKS. I TRUST YOU ARE ALL WELL.

IN THE PAST 6 MONTHS I HAVE REPLACED STEERING VALVE SPOOL SEALS (2X), SPOOL SPRINGS, O RINGS AND HAD THE MACHINE STEERING REAL NICE. LATELY IT IS GETTING WEAKER IN TURNS ON LEFT SIDE, AND I NOTICE A SLIGHT LEAK, DRIPPING DOWN RIGHT SIDE HOUSING SEAL/VALVE SPOOL. APPARENTLEY LEAKING PAST THE SPOOL SEAL.

I HAVE ALSO TESTED BY DRIVING UP INCLINE AND THEN SLOWLY PULLING BACK ON BOTH LEVERS TO SEE IF SHE WILL SLIP AND SLIDE BACKWARDS TO DETERMINE IF BRAKES ARE ADJUSTED CORRECTLY. IT DOES NOT SLIDE. IT STOPS AND HOLDS AND THEN WILL DRIVE FORWARD WHEN LEVERS ARE RELEASED.

SO I AM A BIT CONFUSED BY A COUPLE OF THINGS. 1. AM I LOOKING AT MIS-ADJUSTED BRAKES AND/OR MIS ADJUSTED STEERING VALVES OR BOTH?

ALSO-A LEAK AFTER REPLACING THE SEALS TWICE HAS GOT ME FROSTED. THE SMALL SPRINGS WITHIN IN THE SEALS SHOULD BE ORIENTED TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE MACHINE-CORRECT? DID I GOOF IN REPLACING THE SEALS?

MAYBE I AM LOOKING AT A WORN VALVE SPOOL? I AM THINKING OF SWAPPING VALVE SPOOLS TO SEE IF LEAK FOLLOWS SPOOL OR STAYS WITH THE SEAL. THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR ADVICE! DD

[LeonardL]

Okay, First, I would make sure the spools are adjusted correctly. If the linkage is forcing the spool to far back into the valve housing, they will leak. This will also cause a clutch engagement issue. I don't remember the exact setting and would have to look it up in a manual. Do you have a good manual for your machine? If not, I highly recommend you get one. Your over all adjustment should be some where around five to six inches of lever travel. Your clutches should disengage just before the brakes start to engage. Then with a little more pull to completely engage the brake. I don't think you have installed your seals wrong. The lip of the seal or the side with the tensioner spring should go toward the inside of the valve. However these seals are easily damaged. The spools can cut a small, barely noticeable slice off of the lip and will cause a minor leak. That being said, I have seen these spools and valve bodies get worn enough to cause a leak as well. It doesn't take much.
I'm not sure what you mean by the turn becoming weak. This could be just an adjustment issue. Before I would replace the seals again, I would run all of your adjustments first and see what you have. Hope this helps... And good luck!

[CatD8RII]

Hello

If you've just replaced your valve seals, did you notice any marks on the spools? They need to be clean and free of nicks or scratches , similar to a hydraulic cylinder rod. Also, you need to be careful when sliding the spool past the seal to be gentle or else you may damage the seal. And yes the spring side goes towards the rear of the crawler.

As far as the brake vs clutch adjustment, did you try it by the book? If i remember right once you pull the levers back 1 1/2 inches the clutches should be released. I would start there first , beings how that part was just disassembled.

[CatD8RII]

Sorry to reiterate what you just said Leonard, you must have posted as I was still typing

[LeonardL]

That's okay... There are so many knowledgeable people on here that it is a wonder we don't run over each other more than we do. Besides, it is always good to see agreement on the subject. Plus we may forget something that someone else will remember. That's how problems get solved.

[dozingdozer]

Guys, thanks a lot for the input. I have been using the manual for all adjustments and it is good to know the seals are oriented correctly. I wasn’t able to find the sweet spot for the valve spool travel, by manual direction, so I did it finally by trial and error. Which setting felt just right, steered the best, etc. I’ll give it another shot, adjust them per your suggestions, and see if this will stop the leak as well. Spools looked perfect when I took the unit apart. I was hoping there was an easier way to change that right side seal without pulling the valve housing off the transmission case, but wound up removing it every time. Thanks guys…DD