questions about JD 350 for sale on craigslist

[jedwa1216]

http://blacksburg.craigslist.org/cto/2693982568.htm I don't know anything about these but am interested in buying one to clear some land and make some logging trails. Would like to hear opinions on this ad and suggestions on what questions to ask and whether the price on this machine is a good starting point based on the problem stated. Thanks, Jeff.[/url]

[KenP]

deleted

[Tigerhaze]

You've done the first thing that I always ask, which is what are your objectives/uses for the crawler. You might want to read up in the archives about selecting a dozer versus crawler- if you have a lot of trees you want to clear a loader may be better than a dozer for you.

I agree with the assessment of condition by Ken- that left track looks like the adjuster is fully out and the track is still loose so likely the pins/bushings in the track are totally shot. Then there are all the other issues Ken mentioned. I know the price seems right but you could easily put another $10K or more into this crawler after you purchase it to make it fully functional, depending on the other likely undisclosed issues.

I would suggest you do a search in the archives about looking at/purchasing new crawlers and what to look for on 350s. I know there are several thread s that are very helpful and got into a lot of detail on this. We're happy to answer questions, but you can ask better questions of us if you are a little more informed

[jtrichard]

looks like a gasser just above the lift ram you can see what looks like a intake with a carb on the bottom i dont have a 350 so im just going on what little i can see

[jedwa1216]

Thanks for the replies. I will keep reading and learning. And looking at more machines. Anyone on this board from anywhere near Christiansburg, VA? Thanks again.

[LeonardL]

It is definitely a gas engine. That is definitely a gas intake and exhaust. I agree with the other guys on the general condition. She's wore out! I also notice it has a straight blade and not a six way. Some of those are adjustable manually but that is a pain. I agree that with what you are wanting to do, a loader in a 450 series or bigger might suit you better. With what it would take to bring her back to life, you could go a long way on a machine you could put right to work.

[77 Ford]

I think the pro's have covered most of the big issues but I'd like throw my 2 cents in. I was looking for a machine for the same type of work and I think it's very important to either get a machine with ROPS or be prepared to buy/build it. IMHO clearing trees without ROPS is just asking for a headache or worse.

I found what I think was a good machine and a good price without ROPS and it took me better part of two weeks to run one down with brackets. I think it is very important. That is why I've been doing service work for the most part and have pushed only enough to make sure all the gears work and the transmission seems sound.

I am also on the loader side of the family feud for clearing timer

[LeonardL]

Good point!!

[MarkW]

I'll second ROPS for clearing timber.

I absolutely despise it when "net nannies" come on the internet spouting BS, whether it is how you need to wear gloves when mixing wood ashes with water or whatever else, but the year before last a guy about 25 miles from me was killed while pushing over a tree and had a limb break and fall on him. An interesting exercise is to look at a beat up ROPS and look at each dent and decide it that would have been fatal had there not been a structure there.

[Paul Buhler]

JMTC: When working in the woods I feel most comfortable with a ROPS or FOPS on my machine. I've only flopped a machine once, but I've had lots of wood hit the canopy. A FOPS (Falling Objects Protective Structure is often homemade and can serve this purpose well. To build a real ROPS takes more skill and understanding of the machine's total engineering than most of us have. In any case, It's nice to have an integral hard hat over head. I also like limb risers to keep branches out of my space; they hurt when flexed and enter the seat area- some times a little, sometimes a lot.
Take care. Paul

[Tigerhaze]

I have done a fair amount of tree and brush clearing with my open 2010, including some taller hardwood trees without any significant damage or injuries. However I am very careful how I go about it and do not take risks. I did have one close call in the past that made be think twice about how I was doing things, especially sicne I didn't have a ROPS or FOPS.

Logging is one of the most dangerous occupations out there, even by trained professionals. Although not necessary for private use, having a ROPS or FOPS on your crawler definitely adds some peace of mind for you and your family when using the crawler in timber.

[gerald]

This post was full of nothing but hard core crawer hands. Amazing little machines .

[VT350C]

I wouldn't touch it...I have a John Deere 350C with wet clutches which are more reliable...Not that 350B models are bad, but if they have been sitting forever or are hurting the transmission work can be very expensive...

Things to look for on 350's of all types:
- Clear the mud away! Or ask owner to powerwash the unit before you show up and look at it...That should be a minimal thing they do so you can get a good look at any machine.
- Look at the bolts on the frame rail to track bracket. This bracket holds the machine to the tracks...4 bolts on outside...I think 2 on inside...The quality of this steel is softer than the bolts used to hold it down...It takes a beating...Not that looseness is bad, but you should be aware of it...If bolts are missing that is bad...as it shows a complete lack of care for the machine...If they are there and loose, you can shim and/or weld the bolts to firm it up...If you attempt to take bolts off...make sure to use plenty of PB Blaster (let sit for hours and hit 2-3x) AND use a torch to loosen the bolts. You never want to break off a bolt head! Let PB Blaster work generously and sit for an hour or two...Keep hitting it (go have a beer), then hit it with heat generously to free up the bolts...
- Try to shake with your hand each roller...If they wobble and aren't firm, you need new rollers...not a deal breaker as they are easily available in new aftermarket parts...
- Look carefully at all undercarriage bolts, to the frame...including look under the seat at all bolts to see if they are present and firm.
- Try to drive machine and turn very hard right and left and go in circles a few times each way...Note any difference in left/right effort to hold the turn...If it's sloppy or doesn't turn...this is a BIG problem that would require a professional estimate.
- Grouser pads...you gotta have some wear left in them to push and pull...But a general farm/personal use doesn't need much...Hilly areas definitely need more to hold the machine on a hill.
- Check front idler for even where on each side...Looking directly from back you should see an even amount of flange on each side.
- Check back sprocket...You do not want sharp edits to the teeth...You will drop tracks all the time...You can get replacements for idler and sprockets and these are replaceable...
- Check track tension...You must have each track tensioner hold the track taught, or you will drop tracks...To buy new tensioners, you are looking at $300 each...not crazy for a dozer, but you must need tensioners that hold their pressure...Often these can easily be repacked (I did one) for less than $50 each (parts)...and this will do a great job to hold the track taught...
- Run the engine and note knocks, weird noises, excessive smoke...
- Open up and look at air filters (if filthy, just indicator of poor maintenance)...Look at fuel filter (if cloudy, just indicator of poor maintentance)
- Open up and look at radiator fluid (see if low)
- Check all gears in forward and reverse and USE THEM
- Use master reverser in both directions
- Find a hill and see if brakes work (also test brake lock).
- Try to bleed the fuel line spigot under the seat. This is a simple drain to drain water and sediment out of fuel tank. If fuel doesn't flow, this is a sign of poor maintenance, not a deal killer...but this should be let for a couple seconds on every use to keep water out of fuel system and to keep crud out...
- Raise hood and look at exhaust manifold...Look for leaks, brakes, etc...If poor, not deal killer, but just good to know the condition of the manifold and stack.
- Check horn and lights;-)

Sure there is more, but this will let you rule out lemons...In general engine work is far cheaper than undercarriage work (both parts and labor)...It can also be done without cranes and such...

Good Luck!

[VT350C]

Here are 350C listings...More expensive, but...
http://www.machinerytrader.com/list/lis ... rch=Search